morbias

It says in the instructions a ballast resistor must be used...

My opinion would be the opposite. What with the crappy weather we have in the UK having metal boxed inside more metal is an invitation for rust to start eating your car from the inside out. With the close fit of the baddog rails it would trap moisture easily and hold it between the layers. btw. why not just get a local fabrication shop to fold you up some top hat sections to your own specifications? I literally just last week picked up two new frame rails made from 1.5mm zintec (3 ft long) and it only cost £30 for both of them.

shiny shiny btw. I think the old Lancia is a Lotus Eclat

The front engine cover maybe, where the waterpump is?

Pretty sure you don't have to unbolt anything to remove the oil pan, I've taken mine off without touching anything else.

The problem with aftermarket floors is they aren't an exact fit. When you buy replacement floors they have to be shaped and trimmed to meet up with the transmission tunnel; if you look at the shape of that section you'll see what a pain in the ass that can be. Best angle of attack is to cut the original floors back to somewhere before they start curving upwards (if they aren't that far gone). It's still a ton of work though and will cost a fair bit if you are paying somone else to do them. The other problem is where the floors join up to the rocker panels; if the rocker panels are in bad shape internally then you might find the welder blows straight through them when you go to put the new floors in. If that happens then you suddenly have a much bigger issue altogether, and if you are paying someone for the work then the cost will skyrocket. Not trying to discourage you, but it's something to be wary of. And to demonstrate... ...this is what happens when you weld patches over rust. Basically I had to remove 3 outer rocker panels on this side; clearly when the original one rusted through somebody welded another one right over the top, then another over that when it rusted through again. And the rocker panels looked spotless from the inside of the car. In fact the area the floor was attached to is paper thin and disintegrates as soon as you look at it! I'm about halfway through reconstructing this section from scratch, it's taken a week so far...

Another southerner, I'm in Southampton There seem to be quite a few Z owners around here and the west country, there aren't that many events over the winter though and I think they're all over until spring comes around. The UK zclub is probably the best place to find out about meets and such

Ask him for some better pictures. Seriously, if you turn up and try to knock him down £1200 just because the engine has rust on it he'll probably knock your teeth out

Check your fuses, there is a fuse for each headlight. If one of them blows then one headlight will go dim.

Hey guys, these are available in offsets of -10 and -15 as well, why not just do that instead of running spacers?

http://www.zcarsource.com/door-upper-molding-rubber-seal-70-78-new_8_54907_197483.html

Also replace all the fuses; even though the fuse wire inside the glass might look ok it might not be. I had three fuses that looked fine but were in fact toast.

If someone has messed around with the wiring and taken the live feed for the hazards from the glove box wiring that might be why they only work when the headlights are on, a bit of a long shot though!

Anyone know how many RS30's were built in total? Mine is number 244. It's a UK car, there can't have been many produced for the UK market and I imagine most are no longer in existance due to the weather we get over here. To be honest, a lot of my car isn't there any more!

Get yourself an angle grinder and some strip discs, they will take the paint right off along with body filler and light rust

If you look in the boot of the car there is a hole next to each wheel well and the posts go through there. I tried removing mine before, couldn't do it

Same car isn't it? If you compare the pic in the op with the one of the rear you can see it's the same vehicle; check out the radio antenna in both pics!

Those are flat tops... the tops are flat

Well, it was night here in the UK, plus it's the weekend and the Olympics opening ceremony was on so you might have to wait a little for a reply.

http://www.frpautomotive.com/frp_price_list_page.html Not sure what shipping to the US would be though

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?r=161-Rain-Gutter-Drip-Rail-Removal-and-Installation Pics of the inside of the trim, pretty self explanatory but can be a bit awkward to get it started. Once you have it started the rest of it comes off pretty easily.

ASSY-FRONT FENDER RH 63100-N4700 ASSY-FRONT FENDER LH 63101-N4700

That white wire looks like the main +12v power that goes up to the switches in the steering column. Does it have a red stripe on it? Have you looked to see what it's connected to?

I wish my garage floor was as tidy as yours

I would suspect these three things first: regulator alternator sense wire I wouldn't keep swapping out fuses and fusible links for higher rated ones, they are there to prevent damage so you might end up frying your wiring harnesses