kcelectronics

HI You might want to keep the Air regulator it is basicly the "Choke" used for F/I engines, it has a disk inside that is rotated over time (a few minutes when the engine is cold) by a bimetal strip which is heated by 12v being applied to it. When cold you should be able to look through the air passage, and as the bimetal strip is heated by a coil of wire wound around it, the disk will slowly close off the air flow which will reduce the idle speed of the engine after it warms up. The engine will stall when cold if this is not fitted !! please ask if you need more info about this control valve OK I think I have a diagram of it some where if you need it! Also my referance to the "Choke" as not realy accurate as it doesnt add any extra fuel just more Air! it is mounted between the AFM and the manifold so any extra air is measured by the AFM! any extra fuel is added by the ECU based on the engine water temp. I hope I have explained it well enough?

HI I have a Nissan pump, running a Subaru Power Rack, so you should have no problem with ther Mitac rack as most Power steering run around the same pressures (which is mostly set/controled by the rack anyway)with maximum pressuer only reached when the rack is at full lock.

HOW?

Hi Mike, Why not upgrade to an RB30 block?

Hi Sounds like a split Vacuum hose this happens to my car now and again, can be a bit tricky to find but it is usualy under the hood (high temp does the damage to them) it is always a small hose on my car (about 1/4" dia) and the split is only about 3/8" long and the hose is still attached so you have to look carefully. pull them off one by one and check for splits to the end where they fit.

Hi this is what you need, sorry its upside down you will need to download it and turn it around. or email me and I will send it to you OK http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=6384&size=big&cat=500

I used to run an external surge tank which was filled by the stock fuel pump, this worked great, but here in Australia when the temp was above 38C (100F) the fuel returning to the surge tank from the engine was HOT and continually being pumped back to the engine and after 15~20 mins of driving, the fuel in this surge tank would boil and the engine cut out (not what you want when you need the A/C to keep cool). I would have to wait about 15 min before I could resume the trip. Since fitting the new sump this problem has disappeared, my sump holds about 2 liter (about ½ US Gallon) and with the 2 holes drilled in the bottom of the tank above the sump once the fuel has filled it there is no way that the fuel can escape when cornering

Why go to all the trouble of adding baffles to the sump? All I did was to drill 2 x 1" holes in the bottom of the tank in the center of the area covered by the sump, this will allow the fuel to enter, but not allow it to escape!

NO more need to be said, thanks Mike

I think will weigh in to this one, I did add a reply to a thread that was written in “Text Speak†with the following: “If you want an intelligent answer, from knowledgeable members please "Learnd hou 2 speech propper" and you may just obtain the answers to your questions. This is not a text message board!!†Trying to decipher some posts just makes my brain hurt. I used to be a member of an exceptional electronics type forum, and the standards were reasonably high as you would expect, then several threads were started regarding slightly illegal/pirating practices, and the majority of posts were degrading into slanging matches about who was better that others and the language degenerated to “Street Lingo†. This board was quickly reduced to several morons insulting each other to the point that a lot of long term posters just gave up! And now the board is almost dead. So beware this is a great board and it should be held to OUR collective standards, and remember if you let a little go over a long time, it WILL be reduced to its lowest common denominator! The standards on this board are very good, my hats is off to the moderators, most things are accepted by the majority with very few complaints/problems. This board has a great mix from many non English speaking countries including the UK? (I am an Expatriate “POM†who now calls Australia Home). Spelling mistakes are just that mistakes, but deliberate use of slang just lowers the standard. Just my 2 cents worth, (AU$0.0271390) I will stop rambling on as I tend to do from time to time I treat others as I want to be treated!

If the caliper should fit a smaller disk than the arc insice the caliper is a smaller diameter! so if the caliper is fitted to a larger disk then the front and rear edges would be closer to the new larger disk causing the center (pads to be further out causing the pad problem see below.

"Fiberglass body's will be available for delivery in 4 months and will be limited. 50 percent deposit due within 4 days after auction has ended. 50% deposit for a kit that hasn't been built yet? And where are the pictures of one of the "Finished" aluminum kits? Oh wait this must be it? Love the high tech workshop, I wouldn't give them 50% of $0.00:nono:

I guess Hondas have a bad reputation over in the USA? Here is my daily driver! Chucky:evil:

They DONT WORK!!!!! and Never DID!!!! Chucky:evil:

There have been many studies of these and other so called "Miracle" products that claim all sorts of benefits? And ALL of them have been proven to be worthless! If they were any good the major manufactures would use/sell them. I have seen magnets that clamp around fuel lines to "Align the Fuel molecules"? For better gas mileage, electric turbos (small fan) Etc. "Yeh Right" any one want to buy a piece of the moon just call me I would be glad to take your money:):) Chuckie:evil:

Have you tried to fiddle with the Ign. switch they are renowned for causing starting problems; I have to turn my 77 3/4 of the way to the start position to start it! if I quickly turn the key all the way the starter will spin for a fraction of a second then stop!

Are your Dash Lights coming on? is the fuel pump working now, have you tried to spin the starter from under the hood? (jump 12V direct to the small connector on the solenoid)

Check your rear tyres for separation of the tread or bubbles under the tread (caused by air getting between the ply's of carcase of the tyre!

The blower will eventually defrost the windscreen but it would be slow! It is better with the heater on, but quickest method of defrosting is with A/C Note A/C defrost not available with factory A/C on a 240~280z only heat)

HI No that is the blower motor with the corrugated duct attached that you remove to fit the evaporator, sorry about the confusion! I just added it so you had an idea where the evap. should go. I hope you understand my description so far?

Hi You will need to measure the distance between the Fan and the main Heater unit (it may be to small to fit this unit into) I cant remember how much room you have to play with . You remove the bellows and the evaporator fits in the gap, you will have to make adaptors for the fan and the heater box of course, you should also fir a fan with more air flow. you may also be able to move the fan over to give you more room. So you will need to measure the space you have to play with and get the measurements of the unit you want to fit. You may find a thinner unit would suit you better so first find out how much space you have OK.

Is this the type you are looking at? I found a pic of a 3000gt on ebay It is a blow through type and fits between the fan and the heater unit, it is probably the easiest to fit, but you will lose the glove box (that's where it fits, against the firewall behind the glove box area) but this will allow you to use all the std 240z controls! all you need to add is the thermostat.

HI Again, What evaporator are you going to use? Do you have a picture? Does the evaporator have the heater as well? This would make the install less painful, and more useful then the original, the main fault with the genuine 240~280z A/C is the location of the evaporator (just behind the dash), and you cant mix warm air from the heater, or direct the A/C to the windshield for de misting (better that heat). Were you intending on adapting your original controls? As they didn't have an adjustable thermostat fitted!