kcelectronics

Perfect, you could try to adjust it BUT I wouldn't

The standard alternator is rated at 45 amp so the only extra current is the fan and water pump, so 140A (even 124A?) should be more than enough. Is the amp meter connected to the right place? It should really measure ALL current flow both to and from the battery with the exception of the starter motor current. The amp meter may not handle this amount of current? As it uses a "shunt" to measure the current flow! and would be rated for not much more than the 45A of the stock system This is one reason late models had a Volt Meter instead of the Amp meter.

If the driveshaft still spins it's NOT the clutch????? and as POP say's stop typing and start wrenching.

I Like the car but the wheels/tyres diameter always looked too small for the rest of the car?

Its a Triumph TR7 possably a TR8? (V8? twin exhaust)

Have you checked the cam timing?

If you paid with PayPAl then you could probably make a claim. Quote PayPAl Dispute resolution on PayPal purchases. When you pay with PayPal, you gain access to a forum for dispute resolution called the Resolution Center. Through it, you can file a claim against: A physical good that you paid for but never received. A physical good you purchased on eBay that is significantly different than what was described in the listing. Dispute Resolution specialists gather information about your transaction and help you resolve the issue. Throughout the process, you’ll be advised of your claim’s status via email and on your Account Overview page.

You have probably already checked but have you got the calipers on the right side with the bleed nipples to the top?

You will need to open the site in Explorer, as it won't open in Firefox.

Its a 308ci Holden stroked to 383! Check this site.http://www.comeracing.com/weblog/2004/09/17.html

If your diff is/was a LSD then yes it is faulty, if not its OK

Hint, check where I live????????

Is it from an Army Vehicle?

That was quick ZERO yes its a "Repco Brabham Engine"

I am in the process of fitting a Speedo and Tacho from a “GM VL Holden†(the vehicle I removed my RB30 from), into the original 260z housings! The VL also has a plastic gauge cluster and all the actual gage mechanisms are separate and they are naked (just the inside mechanism with the dial and needle). most of this type of dash are like this so I would think the R32 would be the same. The donor car has almost the same diff ratio and wheel dia. so the speedo should be correct. Also here is the Z speedo gear chart for 14" wheels Gear colour Diff Ratio No. of Teeth YELLOW 3.36 16 BLACK 3.54 17 BLUE 3.70 18 WHITE 3.90 19 RED 4.11 20 PURPLE 4.38 21

WHICH WAY? You have got to be taking the PI$$?

Its not that the needle roller bearing is fragile, but the location. The environment inside the bell housing is subject to the dust from the clutch plate, water, oil grit/dirt etc. that causes this type of bearing to fail, some engines do use ball bearings but they are sealed so all the crap cant get in and damage it. The roller bearings inside the T5 or any other G/Box are swimming in oil, and the inside of the box is generally quite clean. Also the bearing is only needed when in gear and the clutch depressed, (example when the car is stopped and in first gear) other wise the bearing does nothing as the crank shaft/flywheel and the clutch plate/input shaft are solidly connected when the clutch peddle is released.

Could you please explain what you are hoping to achieve by adding the diodes?

The paint is a bit over the top, but it could be a lot worse.

The car is actually “flying†backwards, it had spun around and the air got under it and it flew like a brick!!

I had light grey epoxy paint in my first 4 car garage and it stood up realy well to most things I did to it (trolly jack, jack stands, engine stand etc) also brake fluid thinners, but I did have a problem in one area, after about 6 months a patch about 4' x 1' just lifted up in 1 big "flake" but I think this may have been due to the concrete still curing. (I was in a hurry to move in).

Just thought you might be interested in this? http://www.users.tpg.com.au/cobra30/twincam.htm

I Assume you will not start the engine after the build? the biggest problem is that the Oil will "dry" on the lubricated parts. So you should use plenty of lube on the camshaft and check or re-lube again it before you start, and follow RedNeckZ pre-start oiling and it should be OK