kcelectronics

As stated above this should only be used in an emergency, and it can block the tubes in the radiator. Pull the engine out and fix the problem it won’t take you that long and you will be able to sleep nights If it is the big freeze plug the gunk may not seal it anyway, and you would end up pulling the engine to repair it. “Do it once and do it right†All I use on the freeze plugs is the brush on gasket cement, and I have never had one leak, I also use brass not steel for extra piece of mind as they won’t rust out. So do yourself a favor and do it properly, as you will always be thinking about all that gunk inside your new engine.

I think you will have to make your own! check out Mulls Restoration here:- http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106731

Manual or Auto? Is it “Smoke†or “Steam� Does it also happen when using the engine to slow the car (high manifold Vacuum) Auto Trans fluid burns white as well? This can be from the Vacuum Modulator. Or it may be steam from a head gasket as stated earlier

It may not be VISABLE it but it WILL sag in the middle!! just try it and then check the door gaps if they will still fit? the sill is one of the main contributors to the strength of the chassis! And if you take it out what do you think is stopping it from sagging? I didn’t say you would see it sag, but trust me it will. Also you are better to weld in the new sills with the doors fitted, so you can check the gaps and the open and closing, this way you can adjust any alignment problems before you weld in the new one.

Hi The sill is one of the trickiest jobs to do! And not wanting to burst your bubble but if you need to ask how to do this, then are you sure you are up to the job? It has 3 pieces that are spot welded to form a strong structure You need to support the chassis very well as the whole car will sag in the middle if you don’t!! also the rear of the sill runs in behind the lower front part of the rear quarter panel? You need to decide if you want to fit the whole sill or stop at the back of the door opening where the sill disappears behind the rear Qtr panel (this is usually the area where water gets between the sill and this lower Qtr panel and rusts out, I have added a picture from Mulls marathon restoration. The method I use is to cut/grind along the 90deg. Fold on the sill where it is spot-welded togeather and remove the main part (this will leave the actual flange where the spot welds are) then start at one end and grind through each spot-weld and pull/leaver up this remaining ½†wide strip, this should leave the area where the sill was mounted easily accessible to be cleaned up ready for the new sill! Gee it sounds so easy when you type it!!!! Also here is a link to a UK site for the replacement for an MG which have the same basic layout as the Z http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&p=emg/sillrepa.htm

NO!!!!!!! ITS CR@P:flamedevi

Check these guys out! http://www.capa.com.au

Its been to wet here to take pics of my install so here are the pic's Mike sent to me. powersteerpump.jpg powersteerpump2.jpg powersteerreservoir.jpg

http://www.refrigerantsales.com/autofrost.html

Hi All, I think the product you are after is called "Seam Sealer" the one I have used is made by 3M and it comes in a can or in a tube, you can brush it on from the can, or squeeze it on and use your finger (I knew there was a reason they thought me finger painting at school LOL)and it works great most car manufacturers used to use this to seal the body panels after spot welding to stop moisture/water from getting between the panels and rusting them out? Check this link out http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/automotive_aftermarket/node_GSWMS8NB1Nbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSLPLPKL4Xge/gvel_6DTWTJQPBBgl/command_AbcPageHandler/theme_us_aad_3_0 Quote from the 3M™ website "Seam Sealers" Easy to apply sealant that is used for sealing interior and exterior autobody joints and seams. Applies easily and can be smoothed to a featheredge. with a wet-finger/and Sets to a firm, tough, rubber-like water resistant bead.

Hi Andy, Why do you think the rack will hit? It fits in the same location as the original one? I have the Subaru rack and it uses the original mount on the P/side and all I needed to do was grind the drivers side mount on the cross member in a "V" shape and weld in a "V" that matches the suby rack and build an top mount that looks like this -^- drilled holes in it to suit the original D/side mount. I used the original fluid lines from the valve to each end of the rack, to do this I cut a slot in the front edge of the cross member which I then enforced with sheet steel. I wish I had taken pic's as I did this but it was done over 10 years ago before I had a digital camera! The suby rack has worked perfectly since the day it was fitted with NO Bump steer as the pivot points are almost exactly the same as the original!!! I cant comment on the Mita rack as they might be a bigger diameter? promised Mike some pictures but I have been to busy to pull out the motor! I could try to take some with the old L28 still installed I also had to cut a section from the engine mount (the part that is attached to the cross member to clear the steering shaft and added a piece of pipe cut in half so that it is "C" shaped. I will try to post some pic's tomorrow as best I can OK

If you are still having problems, we can try to work it out for you

Corrosion (Aluminum Oxide) between the cable and the engine is a great insulator, check the earth connection anyway!!! And sorry about the LS1 thing OK

How much driveline angle is right for my application? Thats a loaded question. The best answer is....the least amount of driveline or u-joint angle is the best amount of angle. Try to achieve the least amount of u-joint angle but don't make it less than 1 degree. A little known fact about u-joints is that they require about 1 degree of operating angle to get the needle bearings rotating. If they do not rotate they will fail. Too much angle will also cause them to fail. The type of rear suspension also plays a big part in setting the angles as well as the engine/transmission angle. Leaf spring cars have a need for more downward pinion angle due to spring wrap-up while coil spring cars control the situation better. Hard acceleration as in the case of a drag race car requires a different setting than a street driven car. Traction bars, ladder bars, 4 links, independent rears all have special needs and requirements.

Is the earth wire connected to Cast Iron or Aluminum?

Has your engine got a good Ground connection? this causes many starter problems!! try connecting a jumper cable from the (-)Neg of the battery directly to the engine block.

IS it just me or does this look like a Scam! Full payment within 1 week L20 4 cyl etc, etc. I would be very suspicious of this seller, no transactions for over 12 months? 64 years of age!!!!!!

Did you check the small brass/copper mesh filter inside the inlet fitting on the pump? it is cone shaped and usualy fill up with crud!!

Hi I was just concerned about your attempts to start your car, I had a friend who had a can of fuel and was tipping it in to the carb. To keep it going so he could work out why it wouldn't run, well the worst thing happened the car back fired which set fire to the can and his arm causing bad burns and scaring, he dropped the can which set fire to the car what a mess!!!! Just don't want to here that you ended up hurt. It sounds like you DO have a fuel problem, NOT ignition or compression issues Take care OK

Is your fuel pump running? Spraying flammable liquid around to keep it running sounds like you have a death wish, or at the very least you want to meet a plastic surgeon! Also driving around trying to spray "fuel" into the manifold should prove difficult don't you think?

All you need to do is run a hose to each side of your throttle butterfly to allow the extra Air to bypass it to increase engine speed, feel free to ask for more info OK

The guy who is swaping out the Miata rack is "fastzcars" here is the link where he mentions it http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110005 Colin

Hi Mike, Its from a MX 5 in our lingo but my understanding is that it is longer and offsets the rack 2" to one side (P/S in the USA) the Subaru rack I used places the rack equally! there is a clearance issue for the oil lines with the suby rack but not difficult to clear. Also 1 guy is swaping out the MX 5 rack for a subaru one? (I will search out the link)

What type of Rear sub frame are you running? What type or lower control arms are you running? Do you have pictures? How low is it? How many degrees of -CAMBER are you running?

Well said Tony_D!