kcelectronics

I used to fit custom one off A/C into many Euro cars and most of the rigid lines were made from copper or aluminum tube with rubber A/C hoses using aluminum ends swaged on. But you can use rubber for all of them if you need to. If you can find a Refrigerant/A/C wholesaler they have pre-made aluminum lines of various lengths they can make your flexible rubber hoses to order and have other bits you will need (Receiver drier, thermostat etc.) most newer cars have electronic type thermostats so depending on your skill level you can use some type of factory temp/climate control if you wanted to. If you feel comfortable putting al the bits together Go for IT, that's what our hobby it all about! After all if you wanted an easy A/C car you could just go out and buy one, but what would be the fun in that? Again its not rocket science. Also with the "NEW"? R134 you need less gas than R12, you used to slowly fill the system until the sight glass was clear (no bubbles) but with R134 you need to charge it to the pressures on the gauges.

HI A/C is not rocket science, and as long as you have a compressor, reasonable sized evaporator and condenser, T/X valve hoses, thermostat, fan, wiring, Etc. The principal is very simple compress the refrigerant into a liquid against the T/X valve and create a gas in a vacuum on the other side in the evaporator, and the you have A/C of course this is a simplification. So there is no need to use all the parts from the same car/manufacturer! so in answer to your question, YES you CAN build your own A/C. Remember you MUST have air flow across both the Evaporator and the Condenser while the compressor is running or the evaporator will freeze solid (thermostat also controls freezing) and the head pressure will quickly climb too high and blow the high pressure hose or worse!

You could try loosening the hinge bolts at the front??

My understanding is thet it is already there with a brass plug in it, you just knock it out and swap it over with the dipstick? Check this thred. Dipstick

Don't forget the tail light seals!!!

The diagram above from the factory manual clearly shows the water flow???? why the question????

TimZ, you are correct the heater takes hot water from the back of the head and returns it to the inlet side of the water pump. So looping it effectively dumps hot water back into the cooler water from the bottom of the Radiator to the Pump, which would theoretically cause the water to be hotter, although it probably doesn't add much! But on a HOT day with the heater tap in the loop turned OFF(unless you are a masochist), this would block the flow and on a cool day with the heater tap turned ON the added extra heat into the pump wouldn't cause a problem!

HI Again, Just insert a flat washer the same size as the O/D of the pressure spring between the spring and the regulator cap nut it that Easy. But If this doesn't raise the pressure then the pump has run out of flow with hot oil? Chuckie:twisted:

Plug or Not really makes little difference! The heater tap effectively blocks the flow, or if you run with the heater ON then it is adding a small cooling effect to the radiator, and as already been mentioned if you plug the 2 outlets and the engine runs hot you have other issues. I have done both so really it is your choice! On one hand it adds 1 more place for a water leak but it is a quick fix. Or you can plug them if you want a cleaner look. Chuckie:twisted:

What pressure are you running now? And what do you hope to achieve wit increased pressure? There is no real benefit with higher pressure. (there may be a slightly higher flow but not that much) The way that the oil film protects bearings has very little to do with pressure (as long as it is reasonable) and more to do with the oil! and high flow pumps will only work with an engine with loose clearences to help dissapate heat. Chuckie:twisted:

I have been using a B & M ratchet shifter on my 5.0 C4 trans and down shifting every day for over 20 years, this is the OLD type 1 gear at a time so you cant miss a gear (not sure if you can still buy this shifter) this shifter wont allow you to quickly move into park you must shift 1 gear at a time, the trans has a B & M shift kit fitted (20 yaers ago also) so I m not sure why you would say "it is one of the harshest things you can do~etc" it is less stressfull that a 3000 rpm launch. Chuckie:twisted:

Wow Philip, What do you guys drink? This is absolutely breathtaking; I just love the total commitment to the restoration it reminded me of the pain I went through during my rebuild when I had to replace both sills, make up repair panels for the rear ¼ and dogleg but I didn’t need to touch the chassis/frame. My references to the water there in Sweden take a look at this chop top Z! Look Here for the full Story it is worth it! Do you know him? Chuckie:twisted:

There are 2 studs with nuts on the front end of the solenoid right next to the small wire, 1 is the battery cable the other has a heavy copper wire that disappears inside the starter housing, if you use a big screw driver to Short/connect these together the starter should spin over What you are doing is the same as turning the key this is exactly what the solenoid does inside. The small wire activates the solenoid, if you put 12v to it should also spin over the motor Chuckie:twisted:

If you want an internal release you will have to adapt one from something else! Chuckie:twisted:

What happens when you use a large screwdriver to connect (short together) the 2 BIG electrical connectors on the solenoid (the starter should spin) also is the small wire still connected to the solenoid? Chuckie:twisted:

From memory it is a sintered bronze bush, that is porous to enable it to be impregnated with grease. so yes there MUST BE a bush there or the input shaft will "flop about" Chuckie:twisted:

Re-weld, Braze or solder all 3 will do the job for you. Forget the JB Weld goop at best it is just going to patch the leak and make it harder to fix later. Welding is the hardest as it could still have pin holes. Brazing or soldering will work well to seal the weld as they both flow well and will be NON-Porous as long as they are done well. The soldering you intended to do will solve your problem very well, and you already have the equipment handy so go for IT!! just remember to clean/grind/sand the area to be sure of a good joint/flow OK I have even used a large (about 1" dia tip) electric soldering iorn to solder a patch on to a fuel tank (did'nt need to steam clean the tank for fumes so it would'nt go BANG) I hope you were going to do this!!!!!! flames and gas tanks DONT MIX, although I have been told that you can fill them with exhaust gas to allow it to be welded:icon5: dont know if I would risk it, I like my body parts where they were intended to be LOL:) Chuckie:twisted:

Is there any chance that when the new fuel line was run metal splinters or dirt has jammed open one of your injectors? this is the reason that F/I cars run high quality filters and dirt/crap IS the main cause of miss firing on stock F/I engines (usually after home servicing)? Pull the injectors reconnect them to the rail and pressurise the fuel system, then check for fuel leaking from any of them they should be bone dry. Chuckie:twisted:

Which side was facing the flywheel? was is making any weird noises before it failed or did it just go bang? Chucky:twisted:

It looks like the clutch plate was in the correct way (there is not enough depth on the flywheel to allow it to be in reverse) and the 2 springs that came out did all the damage? but what caused the outer ring (that retains the 6 springs) on the clutch plate to fail allowing the springs to fall out!!! Was this damage caused by something else in the bellhousing (loose bolt)? which may have broken this area retaining the springs first, which then caused the 2 springs to fall out which did more damage? Was the bellhousing sealed, or was there room to have some thing enter while driving? Chucky:twisted:

Here is the Underbody Alignment Sheet for you to check the chasssis. Colin:twisted:

You can’t weld over the bronze!!!!! even if you grind off the visible areas there will still be material between the joint and this will melt when you try to weld it and will try to mix with the steel causing a very poor weld! You can stitch weld between the bronze if you wanted to, But there are many cars that have brazed lap joints as they are still very strong when compared to the original spot welds. Colin:twisted:

I have just read this post, “and were trying to figure out why the power was cutting up above 5500rpm...†this sounds like it was running lean! this WILL lead to detonation and this Will blow the gasket in a heart beat!!! You cant run a "Pre-tuned" set up on a turbo motor especially if you don’t know what Comp. Ratio!!! you actually have???? There is such a fine line on any turbo install, you MUST tune for the engine you have, or you will be repairing it again!!! Chuckie:twisted:

OOPS!!!! What do they say about assumptions? or did'nt I read the thread properly? Chuckie:twisted:

Any engine can be made to rev, the only thing is why? And how high? and for how long? For a 6 Cyl to produce more power the easiest method is to rev it harder but with a V8 it will usually produce its power/toque much lower in the rev range so the 5300 rpm limits for each type do not equal the same thing! I am not familiar with the Jeep V8 but I can’t see any problem producing “More Power†it would all depend on availability of parts. I assume it is Fuel Injected, so all the normal Hop up things will still work (cam, headers, exhaust head work Etc.) so if the $$$ for the swap works out to be a good deal then why not. And remember the OLD all alloy V8 in the Range Rover (Ex Buick if memory serves) is also the same basic engine in many UK sedans and sports cars. So I say an engine is an engine Etc.Etc. Chuckie:twisted: