lumberjackj

I really like the install! Different and clean. Are you planning on putting any dynamat behind the 6x9s, like in the tool boxs? It would really help the speakers from sounding "tinny". Not to steal the thread or anything, but at my work we did something similar in the bosses Audi A4. We made a fiberglass enclosure so it was removable for track days. Here are some pics so ppl get the idea. Mockup with cardboard Start of the 'glassing. Used a Mold Release Spray before starting. Bottom of the spare tire well had been cut out, so needed to support the 'glass in the proper position Box dry and added top MDF piece and 'glassed that on from the inside. Then added carpet. Almost done Installing... Hope this is value to some people!

I have got some great info from a few people on here, so I am going to see what I can do about getting these made. First I need to draw them up, and get a cost analysis figured out... about how much per pair.... I was also thinking about making them with optional "spacers" with longer bolts so you could use them to either lower your car, or OEM height, or 280z rear height, whatever you want to run....in 1/2 inch increments... what do you guys think....possible waste of time? Any other ideas?

VERY NICE! Any other people interested in these things? We have a couple CNCs in house, and really like this design.... And Ill go even a step further and ask if anyone has drawn this up already in SolidWorks?

thanks for the link! So does anyone run a pretty wild setup with on stock insulators?

Yea, I understand by making them too stiff, you cause failures in other places, but at what point if stiffer considered too stiff? I have not measured a new oem mount for density but I would ::GUESS:: it would be in the 40-50 durometer range... MSA makes?/made? poly strut mounts? I just did a quick search and didnt find much, but the dreaded 500 post Suspension FAQ came up, so it may be buried in there somewhere? thanks!

Yea, I was looking to buy a set for my car and at the tune of $200, I thought there would be a better option for that price. Also, the mount would be an ALL NEW piece, not a modified stock part, everything vulcanized together, not "filled" factory stuff. I will be coming across a few used mounts that I will be cutting up to see if the design can be improved at all. I can also post my pics up here. thanks for the feedback!

I have already searched on this topic and cant find anything...so here we go.... I dont know what percentage of people replace the rubber strut mounting insulators on these lovely Z cars, but I have been trying to find other options as far as mounting, but almost every road seems to lead to camber plates.... Im not trying to cut up my Z for camber plates, and am planning on building it as a mild daily driver street/autoX car, so I dont feel the need to go "all out" but simply want stiffer bushings. As of now, the strut mounts on the rear (maybe the front too for all i know) make clicking noises and if you put a finger on the strut while driving, you can feel the movment of the strut independantly from the car/mount... NOW, instead of replacing these with stock mounts, i would like to replace them with stiffer units that wont allow the suspension to move around as much....and this is where I come to the problem....I have scoured the net looking for some kind of stiffer or aftermarket mounts but have had no luck.... And from the info I have gathered, not many people have this issue or maybe the part is good enough in its stock form?, "why fix it if its not broken" kind of thing... thats why im asking for other peoples opinions....what do YOU think. Honest opinions please. I would be looking to have the same mount style made, but with a stiffer (80 durometer) rubber, but of course to have these things made, I would need gauge the interest of such a part..... thanks!!!

wow, looks very clean and cool! Interested in the bulb style it takes? thanks!

sounds like a good alternative! Now, I wonder if we can find a source online for these cheap?

Wont venting this into the engine bay potentially lead to fuel vapors in the compartment?

I DD my 260z everywhere here in the bay area....just enjoyed a nice drive on Skyline today, wish for you hybridz people to get to drive this spectacular road if your here. These cars are extremely reliable if maintained, almost 200k and runs like a champ!

ABOUT THAT, I was thinking the other night......, why doesnt someone throw a stock mount on the TOP of the diff and make a bracket similar to the RT diff mount that straddles the top of the diff, Just use rectangular tubing to mimick the same shape as the front diff crossmember and mount with a thru hole... AND....wah LAH, stock mount on top and stock mount on bottom...., should stop that "lifting" of the nose.... Just got done checking some clearences here at work, and looks like the stock mount should sit on the top, just needs longer and probably stronger hardware EDIT: Heres an example of a stock Audi mount and one track density Density Line to get an idea of the final product...

After reading almost every thread on the dreaded diff clunk, solid diff mount issues, and ripping of stock lower diff mounts, I have decided to take action!!!! A little background.... I have been employed at this shop, 034motorsport, for a few years and we offer a whole "Density Line" of OEM mounts for Audis and VWs in a few different durometers. NOW, the difference between our mounts and stock mounts are the fact that they are filled to limit the movement of the drive train and they also have a slightly stiffer durometer material. Now with that being said, I have been thinking about all the issues with the stock mount, and decided that having a completely filled mount would eliminate MOST of those issues (besides lowering the nose for certian swaps). Heres the info from our webpage, "STREETDENSITY Mounts are solid rubber mounts with a 50 durometer about 10% stiffer than stock, this means they still ride smooth and quiet but provide a marked improvement in drivetrain dampening over stock mounts. Livable street performance with serious sport intentions. Note, since there are no voids or air pockets in these mounts, even though the rubber is only 10% stiffer, the resulting reduction in drivetrain movement is actually 25% stiffer. TRACKDENSITY Mounts are also solid rubber mounts, but with an 80 durometer approx 90% stiffer than stock, these are solid for all practical purposes and result in ZERO drivetrain movement. Vibrations from the engine are noticeably increased but not horrible. Definitely not smooth and quiet like stock mounts, but in return you get a completely locked down drivetrain with NO slop or deflection. These are perfect for the street/track enthusiast who doesn't mind a marked increase in vibration from the drivetrain. NOTE, THIS IS NOT AN OE MOUNT, AND ARE NOT AVAILABLE FROM ANY OTHER SOURCE - These are built by an OE supplier to 034Motorsport specifications." Im hoping to get a large amount of interest in these things. So if you have ANY questions, concerns or comments, feel free to post up! LOCK THAT DIFF DOWN! I will be uploading photos later on tonight of an OEM Audi mount and a Density Line mount so you guys can get an idea of what im trying to accomplish.

Heres my 1/74 260z, purchased from the original owner, needs usual TLC,but runs strong! Purchased like this, less the Hayashi Perrier wheels which were on my 240sx but i loved the look on the Z more. San Francisco In the Background

surprised nobody said this sooner....looks like it needs some more heat in those welds to get DEEP PENETRATION. just my .02...

Thats funny, I sold my black and red leather version of these on ehre not too long ago....I didnt like them much since im a bigger guy, and they sit a little high. The wings on the r34 seat look ... to me... to hit the window area?

im personally not diggin the color much really but an A for effort! Makes it look newer, thats for sure!

impressive! i like it!!! kudos!

lookin good....! How many man hours do you have into your frame rails and floorpans?

nice TB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! coulda sent you some hi res pics if u woulda asked =/ nice exploded view tho!!!!

Dont know if you have seen this yet or not... http://datsunzgarage.com/probs/ Also, the outlet that T's off the rubber filler neck tends to crack on the inside edge (toward the car) so you cant see the hole..... I have some of these gas/fume issues and found that old broken hoses are usually the issue... I found an article a few months ago on atlantic Z i believe about removing the venting system/making it simplier. I plan on doing this in the next few months

Axmiester- we carry them at my work, just decided to put it to work. http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?products_id=18576 All the other stuff is on there too, I need to get the larger size silicone vac hose listed and i used a "fab tab" for mounting... zxtman- exactly...the top hose is in case of it expelling more coolant than whats in the catch can, it still has somewhere to "overflow" to.... JSM-haha i know, its surface rust, I got the car from the orginal owner that had made 2 roadtrips from Cali to NY and back.... floors need some TLC too, thats coming in the next few months, ZeDD pans and bulldog rails w/ extentions Evan Purple240zt-yes sir! Im glad people like it, I may be designing some solid (no joints) strut bars shortly too. ill keep everyone posted.

After having a small rock or bug break my aged and yellowing plastic coolant overflow bottle about a week ago, I thought it would be a good time to relocate the coolant overflow/recirculation can from the grill/front radiator area, to the engine compartment (in hopes of a nice fat intercooler at some point filling up that area in front of the radiator). Finding a place in the engine compartment that minimized the overflow line clutter seemed to pretty tricky but I noticed the radiator mounting tab that looked to be a nice spot. After a few feet of black silicone line, a Greddy style catch can with one of the top inlets plugged and some hardware, this is what I got. I have been running it for about a week and seems to work great. Comments or ideas welcome! Cost about $80 for everything.

Looks like the car was wrecked looking at that mangled up frame rail... a lot of crappy repairs and under prepped welds in my opinion... may be worth the parts on it, or worth it if your willing to replace the majority of the front end of the car. $$$$