auxilary

needs 6 .50 cal machine guns

I mean, if you look at the rotor, the vent is huge. the 1.25" thickness counts the space inbetween left for the vent, and the actual side thickness of the rotor platters is fairly small? (at least it appears in the pictures, maybe I'm wrong?). If these are for strictly track use, then it makes more sense

What worries me is that the rotor looks a little thin, possibly track use only!? Maybe offer two flavors, the shown option as track only, and the thicker blade version with smaller cooling vent line for street use that last longer?

preorder your bubb rubb dvd now! http://www.bubbrubb.com/preorder.html and watch the funny ass trailer! keep in mind, it's real (and very high!) bubb rubb, so there's a lot of profanity! (most of which you can't understand) http://www.bubbrubb.com/trailer1.wmv

yeah, i think bryce owns that. i know that dude

He is real. on the right is my buddy adam.

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=149312#149312

6'1, 175lbs

84-89, if memory serves right davy, sure. I can swing by on saturday. It probably won't fit you well because you have longer legs than I do

HUGE thanks to Jumbo240z for helping out (considering he did most of the work), couldn't have done it without you, Jon! picked up a set of 1st gen. MR2 seats at the junkyard = $52 for the pair. These are light (about same weight as stock Z seats), and the driver's seat has adjustable side bolsters, adjustable thigh support, and adjustable lumbar. The head rest also tilts forward and back in 5 positions. These were initially very dirty, but not a single tear in the fabric! Jumbo240z in action, removing stock toyota mounting tabs. These were hardened steel that was welded AND riveted. What a bitch! After that we took a trip to the hardware store and picked up some angled mild steel (2x3foot bars), 8 grade 8 3/8s x 1" bolts, nuts and lockwashers. $17 total. also $14 worth of sawzall blades. Measured up the placement of brackets (these would put the seats just a hair lower than stock placement, but provide much more rigid support) Finished passenger side product. Welded up brackets with holes drilled. We had to drill out new holes in the rear brackets, and the front bar went over the stock location. We did however relocate the mount point closest to the rocker panel because the bolt would get caught on the latch cable. Installed product: these definitely pass the butt test, and are a HECK of a lot comfier than stock datsun seats. Bolsters grip you in very well, and thigh support kicks ass. Granted, these are no recaro/corbeau seats, but for a total cost of under 90 bucks definitely makes this a worthy upgrade!

i have no clue, but i'm still laughing my ass off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! probably because it looks just like an annoying user i work with who's always problematic!

The RX7's wheel base isn't very different from the Z, as far as I can tell. I can take measurements with my friend's GTUs and compare it to my Z. I'm definitely planning on dropping the spring rates in the front to comply with the lack of weight. I'm running 200lb/in in the front, but will likely switch to 150

How are you planning on mounting a transfer case to power front wheels to a t56? (and i agree with scotty on this one)

if I didn't who would?

my drum worked just fine. I just couldn't get the driver's side drum off. the pass. side came off with a slight tap from a rubber mallet. the drum was frozen with rust

sure. weld on the spindle from a z32, use z32 hubs and rotors, then calculate and weld on z32 caliper mounts onto the strut housing of hte 240z. in other wods, easier said than done. you might be better off going with a wilwood of outlaw brakes 4 piston kit that's already designed for a Z

I'll be meeting Bubb Rubb on sunday, pics and autographs to come!

you may want to post this in hte chevy forum - get more replies

you could just do what i did, and pound it out from the rear after removing the stub axle nut and flange. be careful, or you may wind up with an unsable stub axle!

Yeah, I've seen Bryan's 510 info before, I just wish his site was back up should've saved it locally Yeah, definitely a great turnout at Rio Vista, thanks again for the tank and the bumper!

OK, here's my dumb idea for making a sump in a 240z tank without having to weld one on the bottom and risk exposing it to damage. Would this work: take a stock tank, boil it out, and split the halves, since it's press seamed together. The tank has 2 baffles in it, if memory serves, and for the lower half, drill some large holes in the baffles. Secure some of that summitt racing fuel foam so fuel doesn't slosh around much, and then weld a sheet of metal with several holes drilled out (we're talking about 1" diameter holes) over the baffles. Now hte lower 1/3 of the tank is one giant sump, that'll prevent fuel from sloshing around and causing starvation. Seal the deal by reassembling the tank and welding the upper and lower halves back together. Only thing left to do would be to put several fittings underneath, and replumb some of the vent lines. dumb, or not? what are the downsides that I may have missed?

ok, so what's the different between the p-trim, s-trim, and whatever else is available? Is there a site with all explanations listed as a legend, or should I just pick your guys' brains?

maybe you guys should actually focus on the info request at hand, instead of making immature jokes? (holy shit, did I, of all people, just say that?)

Can someone explain AR numbers to me? I'm getting into the turbo world, I know how the turbo works, but I need more info to learn what turbo I'll need to mate to my wankel (rotary, that is, get your minds out of the gutter). I'm swapping a 13b turbo into my Z, and the stock turbo's not going to cut my needs. I just need a brief (or detailed, i favor detailed!) rundown of different trims, turbo sizes, how to calculate what's needed, and what a/r numbers represent thanks! (can't be ignorant if I ask, right?)