auxilary

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19703 i run 15/16 master cyl with toyota wide calipers and vented rotors. . The booster is an oem replacement bendix unit. to stop squeaking brakes, you may need to put brake anti-squeal good on the back of your pads. did you break in your brakes properly?

Yeah, I already looked at that one. On MSD's site, that part number is listed to provie 43gpl, which is about 162 lph at 40psi. For the wankel, I need a lot more (did I mention that my secondary injectors will be 1300cc?)

to take out the balljoint you will need to remove the 4 bolts holding it to the control arm (2x12mm, 2 of them also hold in the trailing arm - 14mm), and disconnect the two big bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle. There will be a 19mm (3/4") castle nut with a cotter pin holding the steering knuckle to the balljoint. you can use a pickle fork to separate the two if you have no concern for the balljoint and planning to throw it away.

so, I don't have an rb series motor, but you know what? THere isn't a forum for wankel swaps so I'm going to ask here since you guys have to run high pressure fuel delivery for turbo. Any recommendations for a high flow rate external pump to use with the stock tank? I need a decent not-so-expensive pump to produce about 250-300 lph for the rotary. Unfortunately, US manufacturers don't make a large variety of external electric pumps designed for FI systems. The high flow rate ones made by holley and msd operate between 7-14psi, which is obviously for a carb'd application. Their FI variety is pretty much all intank design (circa 5.0 mustang). Any recommendations and how much am I looking to spend? Danke, -alex

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=2

haha! that control arm is now black cuz some moron hit me and i had to replace it.

RB20det can be purchased for 700 for motor and tranny from venus-auto.com . rb25det can be had with wiring harness, ecu and tranny for 1800 from the same place.

What I did was take a hacksaw, and carefully cut the metal sleeve in half on opposing sides from the inside. Then I took a 27mm socket, put it ona press against the control arm, and pressed out the sleeve.

he's not tall, he was standing on the rocker panel/floorpan

Randy: you can take the metering oilpump out, and block it off. Just make sure to run premix 2 stroke oil in hte gas tank

http://rhdude.com/movies/tiger.wmv right click, save as. It's worth it.

hehehe aw come on, it's a good joke

I do, actually. http://www.stormperformance.net, tell the guy Mark that Alex referred you. I worked with this guy at at&t, and he's the one I bought my rotary from. I knew it was a bunk motor, and he cut me a good deal on it (for other parts)

http://www.chrisstorer.com/cupholder.htm

Towards the back, sir. At least mine are

It looks like it's going to rain today, I hope you got some runs in if you went!

yup, i've seen it run at sac raceway. He ran 12.7-9 that day on average.

Why not order the entire energy suspension PU kit for $180? this would cover steering coupler, all bushings, steering rack bushings, and diff. bushings

haha, no, it isn't. Is he gonna name his kid Rodimus? Better question, what kind of a woman is going to want to marry a guy named Optimus prime? Would she change her name to RC?

http://www.wkyc.com/news/news_fullstory.asp?id=3828

76-78 280z shock tower mounts were about 1/2" to 3/4" taller than 240z ones, so you could use those instead of stock 240z ones.

i said FWD would be better out of sheer sarcasm.

The 1.3 liter 2rotor wankel motor has 3 basic moving parts: 2 rotors that rotate around an eccentric shaft (crank shaft for comparison, if you will). There are no pistons, valves, connecting rods, camshafts or cams. The block consists of 5 slices, so to speak, called intermediate, rotor, and side housings. it looks like this: side housing|rotor|intermediate|rotor|side housing| Check out the detailed explanation here: http://travel.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm basically, it has a weight/less moving parts advantage over a piston motor. downside is initial lack of torque, and the motor cannot sustain as much abuse due to smaller margin of error. ie. you can overboost a piston motor and it'll survive. on a rotary, it can be a deadly result for the block