HLS30-08077

I picked up one of each. 1) from a 93 accord and 1) from a 91 civic I like the fact that the 91' has the cut already made to almost slip right onto the Z. I'll check them out tonight and go from there. Dave.

well it turns out the New Local Pull-A-Part (arlington) has 3) 91' civics and 1 94' Accord. I'm on my way out the door to go snag a couple motors. Especially at $6.50 each. I love pull-a-parts. Dave.

And unfortunately, I don't have those in my 70'. The tool box's went into the Z's in the mid 71's. You'll also notice that everything except for the holes in the doors, can be put back to stock. There is no cut metal or drilled holes, to allow the system I have. The sub box is easily removable as are the kick panel pods in the front. Dave.

OK, now I really gotta get one. I'll call the yards tomorrow and go from there. There has to be Something in the Honda motor that tells that wire or relay or circuit where the motors gear is at. A timing circuit is not applicable when there are so many Variables like low voltage, gear slippage, power surge's and the such. I do my best to figure this out, I LOVE A CHALLENGE and rarely back down from one until I figure it out. Dave.

My best guess is there is a timing tab on the main final gear. That tab should open or close when the gear gets back into position ( at rest) So when the tab in energized, it will continue to feed power to the motor until it gets to the rest position and then breaks the power and stops the motor in the correct resting position. Or another way to describe it is..... you flip the switch on, the motor and tab get power and it starts to turn, you shut the switch off midway thru it's swing and the energized tab keeps power to the motor until the tab breaks and dicontinues power to the motor, stopping it in the rest position. I guess I just need to pick up a motor to play with. The sooner I do that, the sooner I can come up with some real answers for you guys. It's gotta be in the timing and the motor has to have something on it to tell the relays or control modules where the motor is at, ya know. That's just basic electro-mechanical knowledge (electric controlled mechanical devices or mechanically controlled electric devices) Justin, Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com Dave.

Here's a forum on the whole gaguge refacing I did. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28936 White face gauge kit from MSA, http://superbriteleds.com BA9s White Wide Angle bayonet bulbs in each gauge, My parking light relay upgrade (see signiture for more info) Painted the back of each face plate chrome. Also painted the other internals silver to cover the old white color. Dave. Nobody kicks the speakers. They have yet to be stepped on or damaged, hope I did'nt just jinx it.

Oh this is an easy one. But I can't name just one, without making the rest of my unique items jealous. The new custom made (by me) all aluminum grill, sits more forward than stock and fills the whole opening. The one off custom made (by ME) all metal Cowl induction hood. The custom 2/3's box in the wheel well with an MTX 12" sub The LED conversion tailights that I make and offer to the 240Z public. Power windows, power locks, keyless entry and full alarm, 6.1 surround sound (kinda) all the upgrades I make (Headlight, tail light, and ZX alternator adaptor plug, SCP sidemarker conversion plugs (allows your sidemarkers to act like turn signals) LED tail lights, side markers, dashlights, LED dome and map light, And last but certainly NOT least, My Z's exhaust notes are used on the Forza MotorSport 2 Game on XBox 360. When you upgrade your 240Z to the fully modified Z, you'll hear MY cars exhaust. Dave.

It has been done and I love it, Did it 5 years ago when I first got my Z. First thing I did was pull the stock stuff and swap the old power antenna for a newer PW-22 from Metra, the stock AM radio for a Pioneer AM/FM/CD/XM stereo, and the nothing in front for Kicker 4" 2-ways in the doors, and the rear got Pioneer 5 1/4" thin-line 2 ways. That was all fine and dandy but it needed more. I pulled the Flat spare out, cleaned up the dust and wiped it down, Layered it with tin foil, taped off the foil, made a small cardboard box over the spare tire mount, fiberglassed the whole thing up to 1/8" then made a top. The amp sits in the wheel well next to the sub and under the tool rack The pics tell the rest. I also threw in a pic of the new white face gauges I just put in.

Please don't get me wrong Ed. I totally respect the input and work you did thus far. I was real tired after spending a few hours researching the whole wiper issue. If I have offended you, I deeply apologize. My headlight and parking light upgrades are another example of the same track you're on, I had a problem with my Z, I fixed the problem, I shared the results. Which I believe is what you did. I'm one of those guys who needs definate and solid answers. When I had to read 134 posts to find out that there were still un-answered questions and the lack of it stopping on its own, in the correct place, I was a little miffed and or upset. But it's all good, I'll check out the 73' motor I got on the shelf and compare it to the 70' in my Z. I'll take the info I've learned here and compare that with the other info out there. I called on a 94' today and it was $115 and a $35 core, the 91' civic motor was $97 + a $10 core charge. I think I'll start at the JY or local pull a part before I go new. Ya know? Anyways, I appreciate the info you and all the others have provided so far but I need more finalization before I swap out a major part that is a definate neccesity into MY Z, as I live in Marysville Washington and the rain has not quit for a while. I'd love to do a write up as well but NOT until I have ALL the answers, I don't wanna leave anyone hanging. Don't forget to check out the signiture links for 240Z upgrades. Dave.

OK, so I'm an electrical guy for the 240Z's. I build the Headlight and parking light upgrade harness's that you've probably heard of on ClassicZcars.com. I also do the ZX alternator upgrade plug, Sidemarker conversion plugs, and the LED conversions for the 240Z taillights and side markers. That being said, I've just read 134? post about putting 2 possible wiper motors into the Z. And from what I've read, or tried to read, missing pictures, lack of info and the such, the only thing to come out of it is....... 1) the 94 Honda Accord motor will fit, after cutting the plate and redrilling the 3 mounting holes, enlarging the wiper arm hole, finding a nut that'll fit the Honda shaft. 2) The 91 Civic ES motor will also bolt in after drilling the Datsun plate to accept the Honda mounts, cutting the mounting plate to fit the lower sitting Honda motor, and that's it. But even after reading the Zcar write up, and getting only 50% of the wiring figured out, this thread is good for a giggle, if you don't mind Shutting the wiper switch off at the Precise moment, to get the wipers to rest in the proper position. I only do 240Z's, preferably the older the better (70 - 71) but I'll take a shot at it. Cause I'd love to do the upgrade but If I'm going to go thru the trouble of cutting and drilling parts on mine or anybody elses 240Z, the damn thing better start and stop in the correct position. The forum is 2 1/2 years old and no one has figured out the wiring and written it down, on a post. seems like everytime some one puts a picture or a link on here, it's gone. which makes 90% of the forum useless. Though there are some decent pictures to work with, the lack of a proper wiring diagam (WRITTEN DOWN) makes it pointless. SO the question among all my babbling is this...... Has anyone written down the proper wiring from Datsun to honda? And which wires are which? And NOT "Blue or Blue/yellow, don't remember, will update" Never saw an update either. rambling and kinda confused as to the whole 134 post's about an unfinished upgrade, Dave.

I guess I got real lucky when I bought my Z. This is the ONLY rust issue I've had with mine. Both sides had been repaired by the PO and all he did was stuff it with bondo and fiberglass. I noticed it when it started to bubble and found this. So thank god for scrap metal from doing my Cowl Hood.

Seen plenty like that, not on an L series but seen plenty. Your initial question has been answered a few times by other members. You already said ya like the N47 head, even after the P90 and N42 were suggested. You obviously have plenty of money to throw into your project. Relax and enjoy the progress. Hopefully your engine builder is as good as ya think and everything should be fine. I would personally ask the supplier why those pistons were thrown into the deal instead of the flat tops you originally wanted. Make him tell ya what will work with the pistons he send ya since he obviously knows something we both are unaware of. I wish you the best of luck and success with your build, it looks great so far. If I did'nt have 5 kids and a wife with Epilepsy, I'd have a motor like that. Sorry if my first post threw ya off ballance and pissed ya off. Concentrate on the build, not people like me. Sincerely, Dave.

Actually, I built it in my garage. It's a 240Z hood, cut in the middle of the side lips and in the middle of the back support, I lifted the cut part just about an inch and tacked it in place then I added some steel to help it go over the cowl, bent everything by hand then welded up the seams and used some more steel to fill the gaps. On the inside I welded the seams again after pounding the lips toward the filler metal. Truth is, I'm too cheap to go and spend money on a fiberglass or carbon fiber hood. I can barely weld and already had some scrap steel and extra paint and primer laying around, not to mention fiberglass and bondo for the seams. If this sounds confusing, here's some pics.

So what kinda pistons are in here... This is my next motor, I swear.

My turn. Dave / Marysville, WA. 70' (8/70') 240Z. numbers matching L24 block, E-88 head (rebuilt N42 on standby) Triple 40DCOE Webers on a cannon manifold, Griffen Aluminum Racing radiator, Mallory Unilite w/ vaccum advance, Mallory Promaster 60KVolt coil, MSD 6A, MSD tach adaptor, Holley Fuel pump, MSA Ceramic coated 6-into-1 header, Spectre Fuel Pressure Regulator and gauge, R-200 diff (411 gears) turbo CV's, Toyota 4-piston front calipers, 79' ZX 5-speed, Energy Suspension FULL urethane kit, 225/50R16's on Eagle Alloy 16X7's, 23MM front and 19MM rear - sway bars. Custom made front strut bar. BRE rear spoiler, custom split front bumper with overrider bar. Daves headlight and parking light relay Upgrade Harness's (MINE) Daves's LED taillight conversion and LED sidemarkers. (MINE) H4 (90/100 watt) lights in MiiG composite H4 Housings with city lights KATS driving lights. 2nd small driving lights in the XENON Urethane Air Dam. Power windows, power door locks, keyless entry, full alarm, Pioneer AM/FM/CD/XM radio with 800 watts going to 6) 2-way speakers and 1) 12" MTX sub in a fiberglass wheel well enclosure. 2 6 1/2" Alpines in Custom made Kick panel speakers pods. Honda Blower motor and Accord Seats. And I'm sure I haven't listed nearly everything but that was for starters.

You've obviously never sat in a 240Z. Single Din Only. Period! A 2 din is called a Double din and it measures about 7" X 7" and there is NO way it'll fit in a 240Z. No adaptor cable or plug for a 1973 240z or any year 240Z. The cage needs to be centered and use a scribe or sharp instrument to outline the cage onto the radio area. cut it out using an air saw or small hack saw. BE CAREFUL because the plate can break and then your screwed. and nobody wants to go thru replacing the heater control/radio plate. 1) Use one of the 2 center console hold down bolts for your ground. 2) Yellow wire of the deck can be attached to the cigarette lighters power wire (Blue/white stripe) 3) the radios red wire will go to the blue ignition wire that normally powers the radio. 4) if the new radio has an orange illumination wire and you want the radio to dim when the lights are turned on, connect it to the red/blue dash light wire located near the blue ignition wire. 5) you'll need to trim some metal on the inside of the frame work where you cut the hole out for the radio. Occasionally, the metal needs a little trimming in order for the radio to fit snuggly. You will also need to run your own wires for the speakers. The two white wires are for the single speaker won't make the grade. Make sure you lock the cage of the radio properly so the radio does'nt flop around in the dash. You may need to file a bit to get the cage in there nicely. here's a couple pics for ya.... The first is of my wheel well enclosure with a 12" MTX sub. I also have power windows, power locks, XM Radio, front kick panel speaker pods, rear 5 1/4" speakers and 4" door speakers.

So back to the subject at hand..... My 70 is your basic everyday grocery getter, package deliverer, taxi and what ever else you do in a daily driver. I just added the Griffen Radiator 3 weeks ago and the triples a few months ago. I really wanted to shout out a big THANK YOU to ViperredLS1Z for the heads up on the radiator. It's one of my favorite add ons thus far.. Dave.

I had major issues with cooling on my 240Z until I did the cowl induction hood. I made it from some spare steel I had around the shop. I roughly gave the air somewhere to flow to after it flowed thru the radiator. I now have a http://www.griffinradiator.com/ and it looks as beautiful as it works. I just had to make a custom cross-member seat and top bracket. It's 19" hi X 24" wide X 3" thick. And a cross flow design (side to side) Cost me about $300 and it was real easy to polish up. Picture to come after I finish the top plate. Dave.

Thanks Guys, I've sold over 500 headlight harness's so far. Most in the U.S. but have shipped to the U.K. AUstralia, Japan, Canada, the Netherlands, Germany and many other world-wide locations. Almost 99% of the customers have had nothing but Praise on the harness and it's ease of install. Not to mention how many people write me the next day saying "holy Crap Dave, I can drive at night again. Thank you SOOO much" It's definately My Pleasure to be of service to so many who love their Zcar more than anything else. Yes, I charge for the harness's but your Thanks are an intirely different payment in itself. Dave.

I totally understand the "Lack of Time" thing. I've done so little over a long period of time (5 years) but it all pays off in the end. I'll read over your email again and write you in regards to exactly what you want and have done to the wiring. I'm the one you wrote about the headlight and parking light upgrade Harness's. I guess the easiest way to understand where you're at is to ask..... Do the parking lights work thru the combo switch, as is? Do the headlights work in the same way? You said that the harness's were out but as long as the parking light circuit and headlight circuits remain in tact, the harness's should work fine. I'm a patient man, (gotta be when working on 240Z wiring) so we'll write back and forth a few times till we are on the same track. The car is ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS!!! Love the color, wheels, and whole RB swap. Keep up the great work and lets see if we can get you on the road soon, and with all the lights working right. Dave. ( wolfin32z@yahoo.com) White Wolf Wire Works, Marysville, WA.

Hey Jim, How many should I buy? 2 or 4?. I'm finally understanding the whole "break-away" thing and if I understand correctly, I should be at about 45lbs stock, and ideal for my everyday driving and occasional perfomance driving would be about 65 'ish lbs? so being as how they are a little worn, I'm thinking one per side should bring me back to stock and 2 per side should bump me up to about 65 lbs? Let me know. Dave. Hey Wingman, How much for 2 and or 4?

So after seeing my Diff yesterday, what do you personally think I should do, shim wise, to my LSD for my day to day driving? I want to be able to have the diff as a daily driver but want that aggressive kick in the butt (both tires ripping out from under me ) when I feel like showing off. Just remember that I'm just under 175 RWHP and would love to drift around the parking lot every once in a while. I'm thinking 30 odd pounds of break-away but what will the present set up do? both tires slipping easily or will it only kick in when I get real aggressive with the throttle? Just me throwing questions in the air. Dave. Zs-ondabrain from CZCC