gearheadstik

You may be right, I also have the same setup on a 78 280 that fil like it was meant to be...thanks for the idea...I'll do this or some bending if no more ideas are posted...thanks everyone

bump

6 hours???

Yea your right...I'm a dummy but still dont hold it tight cause the sheath slides through...It is a oem ebrake clip off this car, I also have a few more just like it...

I second this...order yours from modern motorsports....

What about this?? Does this look correct? If this is what your talking about I might cut some grooves in the side of the bracket to let the wire rest in and make sure it doesnt move...edited pic

yes that is why at the end of the second post i stated that i knew it was like that, but wanted you to be able to see the thickness of the bracket and sheath...If it was installed correctly for the pic you could not see this...

Thanks for the quick reply Ross, I would have mailed you but figured it might be a while before you could get back w me and this issue has not been addressed on here that I could find...Anyway... still not sure i know what you mean about where to put the wire....I knew the clip was on the wrong side, but if you only put it on the correct side w nothing holding the ebrake cable it falls out also...so do you wrap the sheath or the bracket w the wire??? The bracket seems to thick to wrap the grove in the sheath... If i wrap behind the grove, will the wire just not fall off?? Are you talking about just wraping the wire around the clip, sheath, and ebrake bracket as a whole.....I know the clips sideways in the pic....did this for you to see the bracket thickness comp to sheath...As always thanks for the great parts Ross...

I'm trying to figure out how to hook up these stupid ebrakes...I'm working on my 240z which i just got through installing modern motorsports rear 240sx brake kit on.... I've looked at my 280z and can tell the e brake cable end appears to have bigger ends on it...but the 240z has a smaller end, which fits through the bracket on the caliper.. If you put the retainer clip on the back side, it appears it will not stay there for long... anyone have any ideas or have installed these before??? Thanks ...Here is some pic to see what i'm talking about.

Put them under a press with the rotor resting on your press plates..lay something on the top where you will press against not to damage the hub..I've done several sets like his off old rusty parts cars...works great

Thats Rips call...We might just hit the road Sunday morning at 5 or so.

Hey guys, we put in a driveshaft loop last night and got the heads swaped...seems like it lost some low end power, but maybe that will change when we start spraying...see ya sunday...

Email sent...Any news on a z31 hub setup?....thanks

If you ever need new rings perfect circle by dana are 129.00 and i used mls 75.00ea they are a little overbore but work geart for the money http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=fog%2D923343910&searchinresults=false&N=+115

Do the rotors sit in the same location when you convert to the z31 hub??? I'm thinking about going to the z31 hub on my ls1 car to have more wide wheel choices....If so I'm interested in one of each lug pattern...Thanks for what you guys are doing..

Lason is right the ring spin over time...it does not hurt anything...What kind of rings are you using?? I could'nt find any from gm, I used perfect circle. I think you did everything correct, I could'nt find my box instructions but know the dot always faces up and if only one ring is beveled it's the second ring, which is usually a darker color.

I just put new rings in my ls1...I can let you know tomorrow..if no one has by then..I'm at work tonight.

I'd like to see a pic of the fittings installed if you get a chance...sounds like a good idea to me...

The car looks great...doing a good job

Rucker?? Are you a fly boy???...you planning on attending the sez shootout??

me too

Put me down for two....how much more for the annodizeing???

Yall are the stuff...but we'll see whos king of the cv's...hahaha

Well thanks for the help guys but i think i figured it out...once i popped the first comp flange off i could see where the seal was rubbing the "dust shield???" on the flange...guess thats what wasnt seated..i havent re torqued yet, but plan to do it like you guys said and i think the prob is solved...i'll check back in to let you know if this is it... I know its a good idea to notice how far your seal is pushed in when takin apart but its been a while...another smooth move for me...thanks again Well that was it...they spin great now...been spinning like a mad man..thanks

OK...checked my housings and found they use a b spacer which hopefully is whats inside since i didnt have this problem when i took the things apart...I backed the nuts off and knocked the stubs out some to get the load off....then was able to spin freely by hand...retorqued towards 180ft lbs and rechecked...I dont have a in lb wrench but it takes 10 ft lb to turn the nut with my smaller torque wrench which i believe goes from 5-100ft lb....the bearings for a 240-280 are the same correct??? That, the flanges, stubs and seals have been changes...the bearings also came off the 280 donor stubs...any other ideas???? is that 10 lb to turn way too much or could the bearing not be seated??? I will pull it all apart if need be, it's just i have everything painted up pretty and figure that puller will screw all that up...