gearheadstik

Hey guys i just got through putting my rear strut assy back together and and have a question about the stub axles...I upgraded from 240 to 280 axles and bought MM companion flange upgrades for a r200 lsd...put in new seals and repacked my bearings...now that i torqued down the new lock nuts that come w the kit, it's very hard to turn the stubs by hand...do you think its ok and the bearings are just trying to seat..or is something wrong...i did use a impact to torque the nuts..but didnt bare down on it for long. Anyone have this same issue??? Thanks

this is the guy i just have ordered some from...100.00 extra if you want wheel centrics http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=220014809547&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

I found a KICS company of japan that has up to 30mm with the new studs already installed 98.00 for 20mm and 115.00 for 30mm...a set of two... has anyone used these before?? http://www.istoreparts.com/spacers-kics-c-255_1324_1343.html

I know MM has everything and great product they are...I hate to pay that kinda money if all I realy need is a lug centric spacer...so johnc and jmortensen, you guys think that's the fix??? and who all sells them in 4x114?? Thanks O Great Ones

Johnc i've read that and know the rear dont have hub to ride on..but i run a set of enkie rs6...i think that's right...17in...as do some others on this site...that have to be spaced out some...I'm having vibration problems "up front" when i run the cheap autoparts store spacers....whats the fix??? I think pushing them out w out using a wheel centric spacer is letting them perhaps get out of round/off center of the hub...advise would be appreciated..thanks

I'm looking for the same thing but in the us...there is someone on ebay who makes them...he wants 240.00 for two 20mm and two 30mm...hub and wheel centric...140.00 for just hub centric...anyone w us ideas please post also..thanks same price for the sizes you need blue leaf...maybe if we bought them together he would cut a better deal..ha

Rip had told me yall were trying the radials...we knew you wouldnt be impressed...I'm still waiting on some video to post...havent heard if they went to the track today or not, weathers been bad...

Rip told you wrong..its a r200..he's new to the zcar world...and for Dr. Hunt you should'nt have any probs waxin us in the 1/8 should you??? The closest 1/4 mile track is three hours away or so..this is a pretty small town, if we had a 1/4 mile track around we might be game but this car has only been down the track a dozen times or so...we are not disrespectful or dumb either...we know jnj comes alive at half track....it's goin to be fun if we make it to the meet...

Do you guys like the paint? You can do it too for 15 bucks and a trip to the K-mart...haha...This car is such a budget ride. I couldnt build a 350 for what Rip has in the whole car...I'll let you guys in on a litte secret...its not a 468 and its not making that kinda power...thats why we are only intersted in the 1/8....right now all this thing has in it is a single bolt in roll bar...its not intimidating at all to look at but sure has upset some all out drag cars..We being the responsible adults we are try to stay off the streets, but i think we could drive around on sat night and hurt some feelings

bondo is nothing to be scared if it is put on correctly and not a inch thick at a time. it can be put on over bare metal, paint, and primers....but they need to be a modern product and well prepaired....clean area the sand w a corse paper like 80 grit or so...people that are against fillers usualy just end up spraying their primer as thick as the filler and waste a ton on money...filler does have a period during the curing when heat is given off...the stuff gets pretty hot...the thicker the hotter..thats why it has been known to blister paint and cause it to turn loose....if your paint is crap and peeling off yes it might fall off...your paint will be stuck to the back side of the filler...it does not just fall out...i'm a firefighter but did and still do on occasion paint cars...i guess i'm on a pro level...i still go to the paint store weekly and get supplys.. i have never had filler come off of anything i've worked on unless it was beat to hell and back w a bat of met another cars bumper...my opinion is new strait is best but for us in the working world is bondo is the best thing since sliced bread...its come a long way since the fiftys.....

I'm the more tech person to the group, my cousin drives and Rip is the designated trash talker..lol. You guys are legends and i've been keeping up w your progress...I dont think we could run w yall in the quarter, it would be the first time ever on a quartermile track for us...but it'll be fun..

I dont know about all those numbers, I think the story got a little mixed up somewhere...But i've been told to let you guys know it's bad and ready to run.

I'm part of that crew...we are worried about some of the tech issues..I'll try to get a pic of the heap on here...

warning...filler primers aka primer surfacers are usualy porse and not waterproof over time...not what you want to put over bare metal..

I've worked on many restoration projects and prob painted a houndred cars or so...my opinion of most thing that come out of a spray can are crap...but thats just me... paint is one thing that you sure enough pay for what you get...whatever is under your paint is what most determines how long your paint last, do it right and it could last a lifetime....i always tell everyone a fifth of your cars end value should prob go into the paint and body...if your car is only going to be worth a gran or so, sure go w the spray bombs...but dont think it is going to be a thirty thousand dollar car...maaco does a great job dollar for dollar..i dont know why people get upset when they have probs down the road...that's what they paid for..

Go with the epoxy primer, it is waterproof unlike a 2k primer..."which is why you see alot of dudes ridin out w grey primer w red rust comming through it" ...or any other primer thats a etching and sealer primer...you get sctatches out w the 2k style which is a primer surfacer...ppg dp90 is a great one for the job...get a spray gun and go at it...if your dont have a little expierence get someone that does to spray it..this is a high cost product, but top of the line black primer...good luck

I do a little painting on the side and i buff as quick as the next day on air dry jobs...most body shops do too..i would prob wait a week or so though to let the paint cure ....and if i was you, it would be cheaper and less the possibility of you burning through your paint to let a detailer do you buffing if its only spots...a orbital buffer is great for wax of polishing but not getting out runs or trash...high speed buffers can be a hand full if your not a pro...if you color sand use 1500 grit wet and who ever buffs it will have no problem..good luck

Mine needed no mods...on dr side...do you need it to slide fowards or back for some reason??

Just be patient....he'll get back with you...speaking from experience...I'm not sure that modern motor sports is the only way he makes a living..

Thats right...its the ball bearing or front or outer..whichever you want to call it...i have now found several forums that post the bearing cant be bought new...thank you for all the helpful info and sizing diameters...i think i'll just be using a old one out of one of my parts car rears...not new but will work. If anyone finds anything i would still be interested...thanks again

This one was out of a 86 300zx...so i used that as the part reference...no luck...anyone else??

Hey guys...i'm needing help locating a new front pinion bearing for a R200..the local dealership states that nissan discontinued the part and when i look it up on online parts distributors it keeps stating no part found...i've looked around but cant find anything...if anyone knows where one can be found or a part number it could be crossed with i would appreciate it...thanks

I have done this without swapping the stock mc.....but plan to swap to the larger one because the brakes didn't seem to be much more aggressive than the stock calipers were...in reality they might be but I'm not impressed so far by the upgraded calipers...hope this helped

5 bones for both not each...

The bolt is not all threaded...i don't think it will be any easier to remove just cheaper to replace...if Arizona z car uses this setup as stated by one of the other users i don't see why it wouldn't work here...good point on weight distribution though...we will see in time i guess.. If the twisting becomes a factor you could notch this w a drill bit through the wedge hole and use the wedges..