EMWHYR0HEN

I agree. I pretty much wasted my money on all the times I painted my engine bay using roll on or spray can. They all don't adhere to surfaces as well as automotive paint. I just finished painting my engine bay with a single stage and hopefully it's thhe last time I paint it.

Never heard of that one before. If your really concerned just replace them with ARP studs.

Jon, At this point I think you've done lots of good work. It wouldn't hurt to finish off your engine compartment with the same paint as your exterior. Your almost there!

Really the rusty old datsun, 1.28's? I didn't know it went that fast. Impressive!

I mean It's the company's name and car which is going up against the competition, why would you use inferior tires? IDK excusses... Even so, seven second street tires?

Definately. The TB will be solidly mounted to the manifold but will be attached to the intake pipe with a rubber or silicon hose. And of course i'm going to trim enough on the firewall for the TB to move a little.

Prox, Don't you auto-X once in a while? You should look into something with shoulder support. For 300 bucks each, i'd pass them up.

I hate to be such a flip flopper but I'm sticking with my original design and making the intake manifold go back into the cowl. After sizing everything up I found out I can't make a front mounted TB because of hood and strut brace clearence. There isnt enough room to turn the TB down and back towards the passenger side battery area and, I cant fit a large enough tube to go in the original location. After much thought about going back into the cowl I realized the advantages outweighed the disadvantages. Hear me out. 1. The entire intake system will only consist of 2 90 degree bends BEFORE the TB and will only be about 2' in length. 2. The entire system will be outside of the hood meaning lower temps. 3. The filter will be placed on top of a sealed box in front of the windshield (high pressure area) and will take air directly from outside of the engine compartment. 4. It will look much cleaner because everything will be under the cowl and dash so no hose clamps, tubes, hoses, couplers, MAF can be seen, only a 5'' stright peice of aluminum tube. 6. and if you really want to get crazy, better weight distribution. The disadventeges would be: 1. Cutting 3 holes in the cowl. However, 2 of them will be welded up to the steel intake tubing so hardly any ridgidity lost there. 2. I have to extend the MAF wiring into the cabin and extend the TB wires a couples inches. That's all I can think of. I just wanted to run it by everyone just in case i'm not seeing something.

That's exactly why I and other people remove or replace them with plastic/urethane. I drove my car daily with a urethane coupler for 2 years without any problems. It's an S30 so it's not such a big deal IMO.

Doug, Thanks. I think there's plenty of ugly welds on my car. I just dont show them I dont think saftey wire is needed because there is a jam nut on the hiem and lock washers on all the bolts.

I originally had a plastic coupler but I removed it since I was re doing my shaft and more peace of mind. With a urethane or rubber coupler you loose a little steering response/feedback but I don't see how mounting it solid is any different than a plastic/metal coupller. i'm curious what you were told at wyotech about the function of a stock rubber steering coupler.

Heres a list of lap records to put the times into perspective. http://www.willowspringsraceway.com/trackinformation/records.asp

You should try contacting perterfield or hawk and have them make you a custom pad. I'm sure if they had the specs on your backing plate they coud work something out.

Cheezy vid but still surprizing. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Cobb-Nissan-GTR-vs-997-GT_191751.htm