EMWHYR0HEN

I've installed another muffler lol and hopefully this one is here to stay. It's a Borla XR-1 5'' round finished with a stainless 3'' tip. It actually quieted down alot for being a straight through design muffler. It's definately not as free flowing as my previous straight pipe setup. After installing I wasnt able to spin 4th gear and hardly 3rd but, maybe a good thing. I'm also looking to get rid of my 4.11 rear end as the gears are way too short with the 6-speed. The stock 350Z rear end is a 3.5 so I think a 3.7CLSD might be best for my application. I still havnt gotten around to make a decent recording of the car/engine. Until I can hook up with my Friend with a nicer digi cam my low quality camera will have to do. Here's a quick Accel going half throttle 6k max. on a freeway on ramp. Just to give you an idea on how short the gears are I started in 2nd and ended in 5th around 5 grand.

Nice work dude. Before you crack open your thermostat, Have you fully bled the cooling system for air? It's a PITA to do for mostly all 350Z owners and it took me a couple hours to burp it. If you havnt taken the air bleeder tee fitting from the heater hose on a 350Z it might be a good idea and will really help bleeding air out.

http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products.php click on the complete strut kit for the S30.

Ditto with my RB25.

That MP5 is sick. I wonder how he got busted. I think all the guns had high cap mags lol.

If this is a progressive rate spring it probably won't make a difference which ever one you go with.

Congrats on startup! I don't know much about turbo LSX's but, I know with Nissan's the MAF gets an airflow reading before the turbo. I'm not sure if it makes any kind of difference in your case but, something to think about.

The STB was an issue for me as well. Ultimately, you want a bar that runs a straight as possible, laterally, that ties the two towers together. Unfortunately, your intake manifold makes it quite hard to do. You should be able to use any STB's availible if you get rid of the stock intake manifold (Greddy). If that's still not enough room to clear you going to have to make new mounts that set the engine lower or, have something custom made.

Pipe wrench

Thanks Adam. Glad to hear the engine is treating you well.

Thanks guys! I solved my alternator problem. I went a little crazy cutting out wires when I removed the wiring for all the stock gauges. Couldnt have done it with out my handy service manual.

Took the car for a little spin today. Everything's running smooothly other than a little alternator/charging problem. I got the alternator tested and passed so now i'm beggining to think that this has somthing to do with the stock gauges and how the alternator ties into the factory volt meter gauge. The good news is that the car moves VERY quickly, It's a beast. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear requires carefull throttle modulation in order for me to NOT spin the wheels. It's pretty rediculous. The combination of the snappy throttle response, the engines ability to rev quickly and the short gearing made it really easy for the car to accelerate very rapidly in any of the 6 gears. Just from the little cruise I did today I'm really impressed with how well the VQ performs. The powerband is thick with almost no weakspots throughout the entire rpm range. I think this powertrain/drivetrain makes an excellent combination with the S30 or anything small in mass. To me its not so much the quantity and how much power the engine makes but, it's the quality and how easily/quickly the engine produces the torque. I should have another vid coming soon.

I don't have the part numbers but, I used the female and male gland nuts that came with the struts. The female was welded to the housing and replaces the original threads. I did it almost identical to how Dave (thehelix112) did it. Check out his suspension build thread for more info.

I had to use an adapter to run my mechanical guage. I was able to re-use the same adapter that was on my RB which was bought a while back but, if I remember correctly the female threads coming off the engine were 1/8'' NPT. You should double check me on that though.

Awsome job on the body and paint dude!

Yeah i'm still using the stock sprung clutch. Should do okay for now. I havn't looked into the redline shockproof stuff. It seems like a much thicker gear oil more for an older tranny or diff. I think I would compare it to the Lucas stabilazer stuff. I'm going to stick with the recomended 75/85 wt synthetic oil. When it comes to gear oils: Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple is all I use. Well if you think about it your driveshaft shop is the one putting your new driveshaft together so It might be best if they are thoe ones to decide where to cut because everyones machines, processes, and techniques are different. I would have saved 30 bucks if I didnt cut mine but, i'm still not complaining at 200 bucks all completed in 2 days

After getting turned down by a few other shops I was reffered to Driveshaft Specialist out of Azusa, CA (626) 334-2418. Randy does all the driveshafts for a shop out of San Dimas, CA which does VQ swaps into the S13/14 chassis so he was very familiar with 350Z driveshafts. He basically turned the stock 350Z yoke down to a common tube diameter and also replaced my rear u-joint with a brand new spicer 1310 unit. He's a really knowledgeable guy and does great work. I F'ed up on my part by cutting the carbon fiber off the yoke so for you future swappers just give your driveshaft shops everything untouched! Still Randy at Driveshaft Specialist was able to pull it off for me. As a side note, i'm using Redline transmission fluid. I'm using a 50/50 mix of Redline MTL (essentialy a 75/80 weight oil) and Redline MT-90 (75/90 wt.) the FSM shows 3-1/8 qts. So I can pretty much drive the car now. I just have to wait for all this nasty weather to clear.

Here are the main differences to be exact: HR stands for High Response (or High Revolution) 5th Generation of the VQ. Redline increase to 7500rpm Higher compression ratio: 10.6:1 (previously 10.3:1) Redesigned block for increased rigidity: ladder frame reinforcment Increased height of cylinder blocks New cylinder heads Improved coolant system flow Worldwide first hydrogen free DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating for lowered frictionon valve lifters Stronger valve springs Larger valve diameters Hydraulic CVTC on intake side Electromagnetic CVTC on exhaust side Adoption of isometric exhaust manifold Equal length exhaust manifold Reinforced Chain cover Sound insulating engine cover New oil pump rotor Reinforced oil pan Enlarged crank journal diameter Enlarged diameter crank pin Twin knock sensors Symmetric intake system Straight inlet port Iridium spark plugs Spark plug modified into M12 Asymmetric piston skirt Longer Conrod Processing PVD Piston Ring Definately a much more stout engine, but a 6HP increase from the VQ rev-up is dissapointing.

That's exactly what I thought. How do you get away with cutting the shaft with out running out of splines? I think Terry and Superdan have done this

My elbows will clear and will make around a 45 degree angle with an additional 1.x ''

Thanks for the heads up. I was really close to buying those ebay one which are ridiculously cheap. I'm only 5'7 so I sit pretty far up which is why i'm happy with my steering position.

I installed a new driver seat and I've run into some issues. The seat has really hig lumbar support which makes it ALOT harder to get in/out of the car esp. because there is very little space for my legs to fit between the steering wheel and seat. I'm currently running a momo hub and momo wheel and i'm happy with my steering wheel position. The thinnest quick release ive seen is the NRG one which is 1.25'' thick. I'm just wondering if anyone here is usng this hub and if there is a noticeable difference or if there is any other quick release hub that I can bolt directly onto the S30 shaft.