EMWHYR0HEN

Your doing some fantastic work, keep it up! I noticed you moved your front control arm mounting points pretty far out. I dont know whatyou plan to do but just make sure you have enough threads left.

I was recently running an RB25DE in my '71 S30 and just switched over to the VQ powerplant along with the 6-speed trans. Compared to the RB, the VQ is much smaller, lighter, and can be placed entirely behind the crossmember. So we're talking about an engine that's 3 cylinders shorter, about 100 LBS lighter, and gives a better weight distribution. I wasn't able to take a picture of both engines side by side, but this might help. As far as transmissions go the bell housing on both trannys are similar, however the gearbox secion of the VQ is much wider then the RB trans. Both are alos similar in length. The gearing is much different though. The RB trans has VERY long gears which really hurts acceleration. Yes the VQ swap is probably going to cost much more than the RB but, IMO your better off with the VQ in any situation. Wheather your road racing, drifting, drag racing, daily driving, etc. the VQ is a much better choice.

I dont have any undercoating, sound detening, or heat sheilding on the bottom of my car. Just the factory tunnel and some paint separates my legs and the exhaust so maybe its just me. I wouldnt worry about it so much if you have all of those barriers.

I removed the Borla muffler and replaced it with a 3'' straight peice. It's loud, but I think it sounds awsome! You can kind of hear the VQ note, only meaner than your typical 350Z. I also added some heat wrap along the y-pipe section because it was generating a lot of heat inside the cabin. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLKnWrEa6LU

I'm not running a speedo so it's not a concern for me. However, the driveshaft thing seems like the best option. Austin- Im using a MSD tach adapter part # 8913. Auto meter also makes one, but just make sure you get an adapter for a distributorless ignition/coil on plug setup.

Thanks guys. I've still got quite a few things to do before shes back on the road. I've decided not to use the stock 350Z gauges as they didnt blend well with the aluminum dash. I'll be ordering a tach adapter and continue to use my mechanical autometer gauges. I've been looking through my FSM and I was able to find where to tap into the wiring for the fuel pump signal, brake lights, high/low beam headlights and other various accessories. I highly recomend an FSM to any future swappers.

I finished up my exhuast with a Borla pro-xs. It's supost to flow really well but, it's a little too quiet for my liking. I think i'll be switching it out for a Borla XR-1 muffler. Fuel system: I lowered my fuel pump below the gas tank and redid my 3/8 aluminum lines which run beside the SFC. The feed line runs along the passenger side frame rail, connects to a tee fitting and then feeds both fuel rails from the front of the engine. The fuel then exits the fuel rails and goes into the FPR, down to one return line then back to the tank. I'm on a tight budget so I used AN -6 barb fittings and high pressure power steering line. Since ive started the engine it runs really smooth with out a hickup in the idle or anything. The engine is super responsive and revs fairly quickly for a stock engine .I'm sure the electronic TB has somthing to do with that which is starting to grow on me. Iv'e also noticed that the engine warms up quickly and operates at a higher temperature than the RB did. For you potential VQ swappers here are some specs: 2006 VQ35DE Layout: 60 degree V6 DOHC 4-valves per cylinder Bore and stroke: 95.5 x 81.4 Compression Ratio: 10.3:1 HP : 300 @6400 RPM Torque: 260 ft.lb. @4800 RPM Redline : 7000 RPM Variable valve timing for intake and exhaust camshafts Weight: 330 LBS (engine only w/o clutch and flywheel) 6-speed trans. Anyway, Heres a short vid of the engine running.

Thanks for the supports guys. I have a few low quality vids recorded but my DSL has been out for a couple days now and theres no way i'm going to upload them using 56K. I'll try to have some posted shortly along with some comments/info on the swap.

It's alive! Fired her up this evening with out any problems and ran like a champ. I just have to fine tune the fuel pressure, burp the cooling system and the engine is good to go. I'm stoked!

Austin, Here's how I'm runing my alternator belt. I was lucky enough to find a belt small enough at my local auto parts store. It's a tight fit. I had to remove the tensioner pulley first, place the belt on, then slide the pulley on last. The belt is a Goodyear Gatorback, and there are 2 part #s on it. 40660325 and 6PK0825.

Your probably going to have to go with the RB30 block and RB25de head to be making that kind of power. If you have the money and resources to play with the RBDE then I say go for it. It's a stout engine and a really nice platform to build off of. However, there is very little aftermarket support for the engine as most tuners tend to go with the RB25DET instead. That's probably one of the main reasons why I was hesitant to mod my RBDE, and the money.. Also, if you plan on using the RB25DE tranny the gearing is horable for road racing.

VHT wrinkle paint.

Thanks Guys. I'm also happy the way this turned out. Everything's been kinda slow because of school but, i'm currently plumbing my fuel system so stay tuned.

Finished up my intake manifold this weekend. I wasn't happy how the welds turned out so I grinded them down and looked even worse. So I wrapped it in glass and it gave me the smooth finish I was looking for. Also, I think i'm going to bypass the oil cooler. There's a little coolant passage that runs through the oil filter mount and the outlet for the coolant points straight down at the ground. If the engine wasnt was close to the x-member and low to the ground I don't think this would have been an issue but, I think I just goint to ditch it for now and run a real oil cooler in the future.