EMWHYR0HEN

Wow that's impressive. Every energy source has a downside though. In the case of an electric car, battery disposal.

Never seen this post. If this a racecar only why not just put cams insted of swapping heads and electronics.

I just finished installing the P30-0032 Bilsteins on my front 280Z housings. I really recomend the strut tool to tighten the gland nuts. If you have bimmer friends they might have one. I tried everything to keep the TTT upper hat that used needle bearings but, I had to ditch them because the bilstien shaft was to thick. I ended up using my orginal GC hats which I reduced in height by .25''. I made a spacer that fits between the camber plate and top hat which now makes my setup similar to the AZC camber plate which places the strut loads on the upper spherical bearing on not the needle bearings. Less desireable but, I was left with no other choices. The car still turns with the same amount of effort and the bearings are replaceable so I dont think it's such a big deal.

Your question is quite complex to me. If we're just talking about how fast a car can corner you can get an old s30 to corner just as fast as most modern sports cars today. However, If we're talking about lap times it's a whole differnt ballgame. Todays sports cars have fancy traction/stability controls, sophisticated drivetrains and better suspension geomerty which make them very easy to drive at the limit and reproduce results. The S30 on the other hand is as simple as it gets and can be a handfull to control at speed making it harder to be consistent. Just take the car for what it is. It's simply a raw form of car and driver feedback which cant be found in most cars today. I like to think that's one of the s30's strongpoints and use it to my advantage. Anywhich way you look at it theres alwasy someone faster than you. I'm sure anyone can be fast with any car with enough experience behind the wheel.

I don't know why But I hear people getting into accidents like this all the time. Who the hell makes a right turn from the left lane? seriously.... I'd be mad as well. Ive changed a quarter panel on an s30 and it was a weekends worth of work. If you have a welder, a cut off wheel and a spot weld drill bit you can do the job yourself. It's pretty much a cut and paist job and if your carefull with your measuring, cutting, and aligning you can make it look better than the other side.

Update: It's been a while. Ive been spending the last week cleaning up some of the wiring and making sure everything is working properly. I wired in my autometer tach using a MSD tach adapter (P/N 8913). The 12V power source for the coils can be found on the engine harness to engine compartment harness connector. It's a white wire with a blue stripe.( I'll have more info later including harness connector number and picture) Iv'e made a few observations on the cooling system. It's really hard to burp the cooling system with out an air bleed point. I took the T-shaped bleed fitting from the heater hose on a 350Z and placed it on the highest point which is the located on the front of the engine on the bypass hose. I've wired my electric fan so that the factory electronics control when it turns on and off. The fan turns on at around 90 degrees C and switches off at 80 degrees C.

Wow your making great progress, Nice work as well. What kind of engine management do you plan on running and how dothe LSx's respond to boost? Heat is probably going to be your biggest issue. The manifolds, turbo, and exhaust are going to generate lots of heat under the hood. Furthermore, your water, oil and exhaust gas temps are going to increase. Since your still in the process of building it might be a good idea to start thinking about how your going to cool everything down. I would sugest adding some sort of fan shroud/ air ducting for the radiator, venting the engine bay (hood vents maybe) and an oil cooler. Anyway, keep up the great work!

It's actually quite simple. Theres a 12V power source coming from the ignitor chip that powers all six coils. Cut the power source wire after the ignitor chip, before the six coils and splice in the tach adaper. I Know MSD and Autometer make one and share the same wire colors. The red wire connects to the power source wire towards the ignitor chip/ignition relay direction, the red/green wire connects to the other power source wire in the direction of the six coils. The other two wires are ground and tach signal. It basically works by splicing into the coil power source wire and "sences" when a coil draws current and transmits that into a tach signal. Just makes sure you have a tach adapter for a distributorless ignition system. That's MSD # 8913.

Keep the glasses and go to europe with your lady. You don't want to pass up an opportunity like that. Besides lasik is still fairly new so it might be worthwhile to wait it out a bit.

The upper spring top (where the camber plate rides on the bearings) doesn't go down far enough on the shaft to allow enough exposed threads when the camber plate is installed. Some modifacations are goingt o have to be done to use the TTT plates and bilsteins. i'll post some pictures soon.

Thanks for sharing. Such nice cars these days yet so little money..

It never hurts to do a little research.

Although i'm willing to help you with what ever you decide to do, I'm going to have to agree with rturbo930 and say leave the core support alone. Maybe you can describe some of your objectives and what you plan to achive by cutting out your core support. I just think there are other alternatives before cutting out such an importatnt peice of the chassis.

Looking good Austin. If you dont already have a fan control you can wire in another relay to let the ECU control a dual and single speed fan.

Sorry dude its also my multimeter

I borrowed a friends snap-on pyrometer which was a gun/laser type and it was much easier to use than my probe type one. I just randomly found this one on eay.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LONGACRE-AccuTech-12-Memory-Laser-IR-Pyrometer-50614_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a543Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem220317449942QQitemZ220317449942QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts I'd be willing to go halfs on one if your interested.

A good trick is to take some masking tape and lightly go over the runs with the sticky side when the paint is still wet. Since yours is dry it's going to be a little more work. You can use a razor to try and cut the runs out then wet sand them down. Your most certainly going to have to buff it out to get a smooth finish. Not sure about the whole flat black thing but, the clear is continuous throughout the paint so I dont even understand how you can get a flat look.

It's good to hear you installed an oil cooler afterall. 16 gauge is plenty thick if the shape design is right. Wanna share your oil cooler setup with us?