EMWHYR0HEN

Thats and interesting setup. Care to share more pics?

This is a track car with stiff suspension and almost all solid bushings. what's noise, vibration, and harshness? besides a full roll cage how much more can I beef up? Let's move on past this whole engine mount + trans mount thing. This is the setup im going to run unless I decide to daily drive my car or if my frame cracks (which I think is really unlikely).

Thanks. I used VHT wrinkle paint.

Just a little touching up before the modded fuel rails go on. Too bad I have to cover them up with the intake manifold. Now maybe some headers and ITB's.....Hmm

I agree. I wanted to put the bar as close to the mounts as possible but the stupid engine was in the way The bar runs right under that groove on the sub- oil pan where the rack and pinion went on the 350Z.

I'm actually suprised to see so many people taking higher level math and science courses which is a good thing. With the growing populations and military power in other countrys this country is in need of more college grads in the science fields.

Ive talked to the owner of Techno Toy Tuning a couple of times and he seems to be a pretty knowledgeable guy. Now im confused.

Thanks Pete. Dave, In order for me to completely mount my engine on my t/c mounts the easiest thing to do would be make new motor mounts on the engine itself. I do agree that mounting the engine on the t/c brackets will make it more of a crossmember but, I feel more comfortable mounting my engine on the frame rather than a bracket that holds the front suspension. I also agree that in my current setup the engine wants to twist the frame rails. However, my frame rails are made from 2.5x 1/8 square tubing unlike the stock spot welded sheet metal. On top of that, I have plenty of frame/strut tower reinforcing bars so the whole frame twisting deal is the least of my worries.

As Derek and Clifton mentioned, those gland nuts aren't going increase your shock travel because your not shortening the strut tube housing which is what you want to do. For the price of those gland nuts you can easily find a local welder to weld your struts together after your clean them up and section them.

Overkill because i'm going to be using AN fittings, braided line, and an external fuel pressure regulator all for an engine that will be left bone stock. I could do with out all the fancy boosted application stuff If It were possible.

Another update: School's just around the corner so i'm trying to get all of my fabricating out of the way already. Anyway, I mounted the pedal with 2x2x 16 gauge sq. tubing. It turns out that the everything mounts perfect on the stock mount with the 2x2 sq. tube including the stock pedal stopper. Then I added a 1'' od bar on the t/c brackets. Not exactly a crossmember but will definatly help stiffen the frame rails in that large open space. Last, I cut a hole on the fire wall to clear a hose and sensor on the rear coolant tube.

Your not going to beleive this but, the last 3 pictures are of the harnesses already reduced to only what I need. Heres what I removed. Just goes to show you how heavy these harnesses were. I forgot to mention that I'm getting rid of all my old s30 wiring and using all of the 350Z components. Everything important uses relays and has newer version fuses. However, I'm only going to be using the headlights, taillights, brake lights, and turn signal lights. Speaking of using the BCM I met a guy at the MSA show a few years back that had an entire 350Z platform on his s30... he had like an s200 front end...funny looking thing. Anyway, I remember he did use all the functions of the 350z from wipers to keyless entry. At the time I was thinking why and wow that must have been hard. Now that i'm in this deep I'm realizing that it's as easy as plugging the components onto the harness.