EMWHYR0HEN

I your looking for purpose built I wouldn't eliminate the dual master cylinder option so quickly. I guess the easiest thing to do is to go with AZC F&R and then add a hydraulic or cable e-brake.

I remember Cary mentioning that the rod ends were cheapo ones used on a V8 application. If clearence is an issue i'm sure some high quality 5/8 rod ends will do just fine. I don't think your going to be able to buy a turnbucle that short. Your best bet is to just use round tubing and get creative with a way to hold/turn the tube. I was considering finding a nut large enough and welding it around the outside of the tube. However, it may not look pretty. All you really need is 2 flat surfaces that run paralell on the tube to get an ajustable wrench on.

You can and should replace your ball joints. Don't skimp on suspension compenents like joints. In the future if you need to remove joints don't use a pickle fork and your greese boots will last longer. It might be a good idea to inspect your bushings as well.

1971 240Z Myron Castro Glendale, CA

Try adjusting the throw at the master cylinder (or slave on some) just make sure there isn't any preload of the master pushrod. If you have to pump the clutch for it to engadge then you probably have a leak.

Drafting Big rigs?

Any suggestions for smaller rubber mounts?

I can imagine that happening. It isn't my daily driver an the car's already going to be noisey... maybe some smaller mounts...

Jay28 what kind of wheels are those? That's one sweet 2+2.

As of right now I want to just get everything running on all the stock electronics. I dont think it will be that bad since I have everything in front of me. Anyway, I removed all the manifolds from the engine and sized it up inside the engine bay. Once again, I think I got lucky because i'm not going to have to modiy anything on the chassis to get it to fit where I want it. My goal is to try and get the engine entirly behind the crossmember without cutting it. After looking at the position of the engine it's going to be a little tricky making a crossmember engine mount that tucks under the engine nicely so single mounts on each side might be my best option. This brings up another build decision. Solid mounts or rubber insulators...? If I go solid I'd also make the trans mounts solid as well. Besides a harsh ride what are the ill effects?

Thanks for the info. If you could get a deal on a standalone system I could possibly be interested.

Dude, that sux. Hope it heals quickly so you can get back to the Z. If you do try and work on your car anytime soon (I still do after finger injuruies) youl realize that you really need all 10 fingers to work properly. don't take them for granted, be carefull!

I know some people use braided line from MC to 3 way T's or switches in 1 ft lengths or shorter. I say go hardline. Probably cheaper and, zero chance of the line expanding.

check your local wrecking yards.

Thanks for the comments and links. Prox, The RB was great when it was my daily. Super reliable, simple, great gas milage, and scooted the Z pretty quickly. After modding the chassis and brakes the car just needs more balls. Birdman, wouldn't it make more sence to just go with Autronic and skip the stock electronics than to spend $1K on piggyback system?