Mr.INSANE

This should work for now

doubt it will get much, A Z went across before and was one of the lowest seller's

Guess We had the same idea at the same time

It's always the 4wd/Awd Z's that we have trouble finding info on. Anyone remember the Z that was on the Awd Dyno?

I did two more test's. Control Unit Power Test Pg. 62 In Efi Bible Battery voltage did not show until turned to start position. This point's to the Power Relay #1 Injector Circuit test Battery voltage did not show until turned to start position. So this leaves me to believe its either wiring or the power relay Where is the power relay located at so I can test it?

Alright so after cleaning all the contact's for everything, and replacing that fusible the motor has yet to start. The injectors show a slight blip on my multimeter but they still don't seem to work. I keep forgetting my tachometer is not working. Could this be related to my problems somehow? I also poured in more gas thinking it didn't have enough.

I was thinking that but I doubt it since it has run before. I've heard of people using Z31 or ZX harness connectors instead I may get one from my Pick N Pull Oh yeah and you bastard!!

I'll test the injectors connector's with my multimeter, The dropping resistor drops the voltage for the injector's so its usable I've never heard of them breaking but theres a chance. I'm aware of the fusible's everything seems pretty clean to me though I doubt something will catch on fire. One the fusible's where bad for the Ignition relay, It was shorting out and such. I replaced it and turned it over, It didn't fire up but it has a hard time during cold starts anyways. Ill try again tomorrow

Possible, Ill try the big piece of metal instead of fusible trick tomorrow and see what happens

They click when a 9V is powered to them there not getting power by the Ecu, Could it be the resistor or something I'm honestly stumped and the Fuel Injection bible doesn't say that much about this sort of problem

Alright Update, Cleaned all the contacts of everything ECU resistors etc etc. Car still wont start, I checked all my injectors again they work but they don't click when I'm trying to start it What would make them not click?

Love that motor sound, Despite the miss

Congrats, Pretty nice 260Z you have there

Yes,Fuel pump is buzzing and gas is getting to the injectors

Funny how this thread is progressing, Well I cant get it to start the injectors are not firing at all. I got it to ignite raw gas through the intake but it just wont catch. Ive tested all the injectors they work fine. They all clicked when I test them.

Never was a fan of the rear design, The front I like though

If seen the Innards before, I was under the impression that they where a bit more complicated than that. As in the tell they Ecu about throttle changes before the Ecu knows to compensate for fuel and air and the such. Edit: Tested, it wasn't working right, Turns out theres another Unit besides the Hitachi The JECS one. It has rivets that most be drilled out to open it

Mine doesnt seem to want to come apart. Just buy a new one? Ill look into that method it seems cheap and I'm trying to keep costs down as it is

This has came up a few times in the forums but I've yet to see any put there thoughts into action

I think I've found the leak. The not revving problem is still there, When i give it gas it sputters but when I let off the gas it idles higher. I can get it to rev if i floor it though

Don't have any of that either Anyways I at least think its a vacuum leak, It wont rev at all unless I floor it or slowly do it

I'm not saying an F20C would be slow either, and of course the F20C has more RWHP you don't see an L series rev to 8 Grand often. I've honestly looked at this swap alot myself, But its already been said that the motor's are expensive, and need to have a lot of things adapted to the datsun, Throttle, Speedo Etc Etc. You would probally end up spending much more than just the cost of the engine getting everything working, with the Z's electronics and other things. But its not my money do what you please with it

Yeah, I'm still not entirely sure its the AFM i really think there's a vacuum leak I haven't caught yet. I don't have any starter fluid or WD40 to find it though. Oh yeah found out my cold start injector is gone too

I Highly doubt you leave from a standstill at 8,000 Rpm's unless your drag racing, The point is there is no lower end torque. The L series has a good torque range and makes alot more off the bat than the F20C or F22C Also the transmission uses an electronic speedo sensor so you'll have to convert that aswell.

Very interesting idea, Looks extremely expensive though