Mr.INSANE

lol of course I'm not serious

aerodynamics i think thats the device thats restricting you

Take in mind if something does go wrong, ala blowby, ring failure etc you will end up paying more than if you where to just do it all at once. I would personally do a compression test before I decided to rebuild anything The electric fan is not needed really, alot of high power L series motors still use the stock clutch fan as a matter of fact.

This thread should be put in the tool shed honestly, So much misinformation. Especially since this thread is called the "facts"

Have you tried pumping the clutch pedal, Just push it in a few times. This worked on my old z after I bled the clutch

I would start by checking the spark plugs.

I believe your talking about the AAR(Auxiliary Air Regulator) you can remove it and cap the holes and It'll work

those who don't wish Superdan a happy birthday will receive a complimentary permanent ban. lol j/k happy birthday Superdan

My truck had bad valve seals, It would only smoke after sitting for a few hours. After you started it the smoke would clear up within seconds. I say head gasket or cracked head/block

The O.S Geiken Devil Z There are pictures of it there are a few TT Z's around if you look hard enough

Most of the people who go turbo don't really bother with balancing the bottom end, Unless there making upwards of 400+hp. At which point the stock bottom end starts to have trouble holding up anyways. Also consider that turbo motors aren't usually revved that high so balancing isn't as important as it would be in a high strung high revving N/A l series. Regardless as to what others think, I myself would have my motor balanced if I was doing a N/A build or a high power turbo build. I would not trust a 20 yr old motors internals.

I think there was a thread that discussed the no charge/low charge at idle. If I remember correctly these alternators are not capable of making full charge at idle. A quick search could bring up the thread

If you really want to polish up the engine bay you can replace the carbon canister with a stainless steel one and moved it somewhere more out of site.

Because its a real PITA to get off the Oil filter. Plus the shop refills all fluids(brake,antifreeze,etc) for free

Wow I'm thankful you posted this because I was going to have my some of my audio setup upgraded at Circuit City. Going to steer clear of them now, I'm looking for a professional place now to have the work done or I might just do it myself. This is another one of those reasons why I just do the work myself on my truck, Its cheaper most of the time and you know if you did something right. The only time I take my truck to shops is to get an oil change. And I watch them do it.

I saw that one coming

A couple small things stop this from being a real winner. Anyone else notice non stock exhaust

Alot of the people here still have the stock steering rack with no problems. Theres a piece of rubber between the steering wheel rod and rack rod that is called a steering coupler. it sounds like yours may be worn out. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC11/23-4161 Thats a replacement. I would replace a $12 dollar part before replacing a $300 Dollar steering rack

As long as you plug up the holes you should be fine. I believe thats the idle air controller

I'm not entirely sure why people bring up the Geiken head in threads that deal with making more power. Sure it'll give you maybe maybe 15% better flow stock but at the price they where at (when they where in production) and the price that there at now 10k. Its not even worth it you could port any ANY l series head to flow better with that amount of money. Aside from saying you have a DOHC head I don't see any real reason why you would want one. plus if you plan on racing you've just taken yourself out of maybe half of the possible classes because of the head. But In defense yes the Geiken heads are sick as hell. I would pay for one but if I was going for all out power I would just port a SOHC head.

If you have a 240Z like your signature says you should be fine, This Harmonic balancer should be perfect for a turbo. Consider that most members use the stock OE balancer which is 20 plus years old I'm sure this is a lot better balanced than those are

I love that megaview setup you have going on, Clean car I like it

Haha regardless I'm sure Ill get alot of miles out of this truck. I love how everything works Before this truck i drove a 79 Chevy C10 and nothing worked, No windshield wipers A/C heater etc etc and the door window wouldnt go up all the way. after driving that for a year its nice to have A/C

174,000 On my 93 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel 32,000 or something like that on motor and trans

What mass ownage lol