kj280z

Man I am hoping that once that motor is done that it is finally resolved - The owner has been jerked around for way too long and I know Joe is the right guy to get it right! I know it's a pain but hopefully another killer Z will be on the road soon!

I am about to install the same kit - I have the latest and greatest from John - It arrived a few days ago - ZERO instructions which bugs me but anyway.... Attached is a picture of everything in the latest kit.... It would probably be good to update this thread with exact instructions for others going down the same path - there are 4 thick washers, 2 identical black brackets, the front mount that goes on the water pump and a couple other bolts - the long one seems to have a custom machined aluminum piece on it and the other is short (see pics) Would you guys care to assist in this effort since you've installed it before? Also, I had to relieve a couple casting spots on my water pump so the black brackets would lay flush.... Seems that there could be some slight tweeks to John's patterns to avoid these type of things...

I am really liking the exhaust you did! I noticed that the pictures are linked to "http://www.mandrelbend.com" - are you involved with that company? If so I'd like to order everything to reproduce that exhaust... One other question for you on the sound... My car will be a daily driver and I'd REALLY like for it to be quiet... I'm wondering if there would be room to install some resonators as well.... thoughts?

Looking for a new heater control valve or one in excellent condition PM me if you have one - I have my dash out and want to replace it while I'm working on it

Are you looking to sell it? I'm not sure of the going rate but a 3.9 R200 goes for around $150ish depending on a lot of factors...

Also, when pushing L Motors to limits a BHJ damper is the way to go.... they are expensive but well worth it - I had cronic problems breaking dampers in my turbo and supercharged setups - switched to a BHJ and the problem was solved. - I have one for sale in the classifieds

I just ordered a set of the silver faced revolution gauges... In case you didn't know, these gauges can be very customized! I had them add blinker lights and a check engine light to the tach (I am replacing my tach with their unit which will be an exact match to the other gauges) I will post pics when I receive them and get them installed

I left ya a couple voicemails!

The guys at Burns were doing it more scientific within their software. I believe they were basing their recommendation on my LS1 engine specs and I also gave them the details on the headers etc... I hear you on balancing the weight - but with a stock fuel tank I don't think there's a lot of room to do that on the passenger side is there?

I'd like to see a pic of Joe's setup... Of coarse - he needs to call me back since I've left him a bunch of messages Do you have any pics of his stuff?

Hey all, I was talking to the guys at Burns Stainless today trying to size up the parts I will need to finish my LS1 exhaust. I'm using the Sanderson shorty headers that JCI sells I did some searching but with the advanced search not working on the forum I was not able to find a topic specifically related to exhaust options. My goals are to have the car as quiet as possible (it will be my daily driver) but also not degrade performance (or to minimize it). The guys at Burns state that in order to flow enough for a 400hp motor the absolute minimum for a merge collector into single pipe would be 3 1/2 inches. I am using my stock 280z fuel tank (1975)... Has anyone tried to run a dual 2 1/2 exhaust all the way back with resonators and mufflers rather than a merge collector into a single pipe? Is it possible to fit it all? I know I've seen a few guys with dual mufflers on the drivers side which would be ideal if it's possible to make it fit... Let's share some exhaust pictures/ideas on your existing LSX swaps to see what options are available... Thanks for your help/ideas

Mods - Can you chime in on this thread? I am finding that the advanced search feature is not working very well at all Try searching on "flares" and click on search titles only... it does not return anything Can you provide a time line on when this can be fixed?

Not true at all - without DOD - with proper tuning I have a few ls1 240Z friends getting well over 32 mpg AND can still run low 12's - with DOD I'd bet 36+ is possible. I don't know about you but, this would make my Z more of a candidate for a daily driver since I have a long commute, but I could still use it on weekends for all my racing activities (road coarse (DE), autoX and occasional drag) - makes it a very well rounded all around car. Part of the reason for this post is to discuss DOD - which it's ONLY purpose is for fuel economy

Does anyone know if the DOD is dependant on the 6 speed auto in any way? I have heard that both pcms receive input from each other. How hard would it be to us the L76 DOD motor with the T56 and preserve the DOD features for fuel economy?

I installed them OVER the old frame rails - they are designed to slip over them

I know this is an old thread but were you ever able to translate the instructions? Would you mind sharing them with us? My email is ken280z@gmail.com If you'd like to see the manual, I found some partially translated images which I've posted below:

Joe Hey - BTW you never called me back! Call me tomorrow... Anyway - I'd like to see a picture of how you corrected it... Having trouble visualizing it... mind posting one?

Dude - I already said we'll have to agree to disagree... Multiple opinions are encouraged on this website - I happen to be one of the folks on this forum that pride myself on doing my homework, adding value and not posting unless I can ADD something - as I have and have also done VERY educated research... I could rebutt MANY of your comments but also don't want to get into a pissing match with you... The shoulder bolts and reaming are fine and I am NOT pleased by your comments that the machinists with whom I am consulting with are foolish - quite the contrary they have read your input and opinions and have voiced concern over your theories as well... As a result, I'd kindly ask that this dowl pin versus reeming be left to plain old experience and will be proven in the field in actual use... end of topic (at least as far as I'm concerned)

We'll have to agree to disagree and I REALLY disagree otherwise I would not perpetuate the dowl pin discussion. Additionally, I have discussed this with 3 separate extremely competent and educated mechanical engineers who also agree that the reeming and shoulder bolts are just as good sent from my mobile device - please excuse any typos

I agree that it requires improvement! The shoulder bolts worked PERFECTLY - I tried it with both of my transmissions. The reamer leaves just enough space to make it perfect - I believe it is a viable option for anyone with a Mazworks adapter or another alternative. Austin and I spoke at length on the phone about the Pro's and Con's of the dowel pins vs. reaming the holes to accept the shoulder bolts - My opinion is that both alternatives are acceptable. I don't think that's the best alternative after having looked at everything... In my opinion, removing material from the bellhousing is the best option. To refine the kit completely I would recommend the following: 1. A refined Tranny mount 2. A shorter shifter mount to better align the shifter in the hole (Austin Has this done) 3. A solution which resolves the really lousy shifter shaft pressed Nissan bushing (Austin has come up with a neat solution to weld the 2 pieces together to solve the location but the Nissan bushings bug me) 4. A cover for the starter section Regarding number 3 - I am still not a fan of the U-Joint/needle bearing arrangement that Nissan used for the shifter shaft. I have a machine shop making a shortened version with a bushing and C-Clip arrangement which should be a nice elegant solution. I will probably make a few of these available once they are tested - I will post pics when I get the prototype complete. Between all of us hybridzer's we'll get this kit refined to perfection!

That's what I thought- so it does not explain the incorrect placement of dowl pins in the mazworks adapter still mystified

I thought they're both the same????