Perfect240z

Well It's been awhile since I've posted, still working on the Z ofcourse. I've been sanding the body and using aircraft stripper to get the first layer of paint and clear coat+body filler off. Then I've been sanding with my air compressor sander 80 grit, 120 grit, and 240 grit. The back driver side is basically all sanded down to metal, I didn't want to use a wire wheel because it makes really deep scratches in the metal. Now im on to the roof of the car and I must say air craft stripper really burns > I did also get most of the hood finished, if I can make some room in my garage I will also tackle trying to make the Carbon Fiber hood I've been planning on making. Since I was able to leave early from work today I tackled removing the hatch sill plate since I know it was covered in body filler/silicon and paint. Instead of just cutting it off like most people. Instead I drilled out the spot welds and pride it off. It did take awhile but Im happy with the result, I do however have to cut off some small pieces, but I will be ordering my new hatch sill from Z car source. It's about 134 bucks, but I know that It will fit and I don't have to do really any modifications. Heres what the hatch plate looks like after I pulled it off. To keep myself busy I bought a valve compressor to take apart my heads, really wanted one so I can get the work done on the head and valves and put them back on myself, I bought this on amazon for about 42 bucks, I added some duct tape and bubble wrap on the valve end so it won't scratch the valves . I've been in a search for an E31 head and have found a few people willing to sell for a good price. I was trying to find a head that was in running condition to just bolt on and run but the one I found which is a member on here was supposed to send me a vid and never got back to me. I was ready with cash in hand, I hope he reads this and send me my vid If not I'll be purchasing from another member. I also have been playing around with the idea of making a high compression L28 on the side with a MN47 head since I found a gas station near by that sells 94 and 100 octane. Might make for a fun ride I'll make a video tomorrow when Im not so tired.

Lol thanks leon. I jus did a search I may have found a few stations in the east bay...one only a few minutes from me that carries 94 and 100 octane. Maybe I'll still try and use that head who knows. It will probably be like 7-8 dollars or so a gallon though. Hmmmm

In really want order a Datsun competition steering wheel. Saw they have remakes for around 300 bucks sounds good to me!

There's drama everywhere lol. I was Interested in the p90 head you have . Wonder if it'll be in my price range when you do sell.

Buy it. You won't regret it.....till later lol

All good info. Ordering pistons may seem a bit drastic since I don't know when I'll be heading to the track, that's the plan. Only time will tell, that is a good thought though. I was lookin into getting a cam for this motor build, just didn't know yet how aggressive I wanted it. I think converting to the e85 might be more troublesome for me then finding the race gas. I haven't tried searching it yet, but I don't think I'll come up with much. I know I might have one by my work...40 miles away but to drive there, fill Up and drive back would just be stupid. Gas can once a day to fill and bring home after work would take forever lol. The station would know me by name by week 2 lol. I'll have to mull everything over.

Ive heard the flat top carbs are better used as a boat anchor lol. Get some refurbed roud tops from z therapy and they can install some better needles for you I think. Way worth it. They're better then new when you receive them.

Whoops, I meant the old motor

I knew that car looked familiar!

What are you doing with your motor phil?

No idea, but 33k sounds cheap for that car I thought... Aren't they usually higher with the shipping of the vehicle from japan?

http://bayarea.ebayclassifieds.com/classic-cars/milpitas/1972-skyline-gc10-jdm-fully-registered-and-legal-rhd-runs-great/?ad=17410217

I had heard to never order stuff from them. Never knew why though. Maybe he scams people?

Ok, I'll look more into it. Just wondering cause I do have this spare mn47 head. If I need better gas the. Since I'll be going triple mikunis I'll have to look into further or sell the head since I don't know it I'll use it.

Ohh ok, I guess I never really thought about the dished pistons not making use of the quench pads then. So how can you use this head then without having to use anything over 91 octane? LOL it sounds more and more confusing that this head is basically best used on the track, or you have to find higher octane fuel is that correct? I have a P79, I thought it was one of the not desirable heads? And I only would run a mild cam too, want to drive it basically on the back roads and when I want to release some steam too. I have read some threads of people actually using flat tops with mn47 and premium 91 fuel and they had no issues. should I assume its a lie then?

I do I Picked it up with a p79 for a total of 35 bucks. Im wondering this cause I have a set of dished pistons for sale and if it'll bring the cr down enough to run premium I won't sell them. I don't really know where to buy or get higher octane fuel.

So I've tried searching on hz and I can't seem to find a answer to my question. I read a a lot about the cr for flat top l28 with the mn47 being on or around 11:1 and 91 premium isn't good enough for that combo, especially since I'm in California and I hear our premium gas is crappy? Lol anyways if I were to used the dishes pistons from my turbo block would that bring the cr down enough to keep it higher compression, have old power, and not have the pinging? I'm hoping to find a simple answer that isn't over my head lol . Thanks for your patience.

Lawyered lol

Weird....

I guess I'd go ahead and use blue to? What about green? Isn't that pretty light?

Whoops I didn't mean to say expand, lol I just did what he told me to since that's what he learned in school. Oh yeah I was using an impact wrench not an air ratchet. They were rusty to hell as we'll lol.

+1

Well this is what I got from a mechanical engineer, basically when I was taking the flywheel bolts off during a tear down the bolts were obviously tight. I so to remove them we used a torch not on the bolts but on the flywheel side to expand the metal to relieve tension so the bolts could come loose with an air ratchet. I figure if the heat from the engine could make the bolts so tight that you need to turn up tue air compressor to like 150psi for the ratchet and use a torch on the flywheel to expand the metal around the bolts, then why use locktight? I'm in no way a professional of any kind just to be clear lol. But I also didn't see any locktight(or different colored dried goo) on the bolts anyways when I took them off, so I assume it was torqued down from the factory since it was a stock motor that hadn't been touched.

I wouldn't use lock tight, the heat will def make them tighter from expanding the bolts.

Did I just see in your YouTube bid that you ordered your motor mounts for the rb30 in your Z?!