BRAAP

High quality parts for sure. This kit replaces the OE “wiping” chain guides on the slack side with rollers which offers just a tad less friction. The Kameari chain adjuster requires manual chain tension adjustment, vs the OE automatic chain tension adjustment via oil pressure. Not an issue, just a difference. If you are building a mostly stock to mild L-series, the OE chain tensioning system works fantastic and has proven itself to be reliable, dependable, more than adequate to do the job it was intended to do. For a mega hot street set up, race build, or for show purposes, the Kameari set up is definitely icing on the cake. Even for a stock to mild street build, if your budget allows, go for it.

A few more additions…

Hmmm. Ok, you may not have been the one that pushed the “save user” button, but I do know for fact that you gave a certain someone inside info regarding the subject, so yes, you were involved, aiding and abetting! BUSTED! And who you calling "Junior", junior?!?!?!

EXCELLENT points Ken and thank you for bringing up how that also affects the search engine. #5 hit the nail on the head in my mind. Too funny. I like it and just thought of a new user title for you. User title change thread...

Rode in a Ferrari 360?!?! COOL! Oh, please tell us how intoxicating is that single plane crank V-8 exhaust note?…

Yeah, sorry to say, this is my first time seeing that. Sorry fella's..

Standing on top of my soap box... As of lately, I have noticed a huge influx of posters posting with little to no capitalization and terribly poor spelling. This is not about occasional errors and spelling errors, a missed capital letter, etc, we all make mistakes when typing, but the majority of us also make an effort to proof read what we post, use some form of spell check, and capitalize when necessary. This is directed AT ALL the blatantly lazy posters among us! Many of you know who you are as you have been talked to about this before! Is it really that tough to stretch out a left or right pinky to lightly push down the “shift” key while pressing another key at the same time or are those pinkies broken? Is that form of multitasking just too much to ask? Are schools allowing kids using computers and word processing programs to get away with this sort of lazy typing? Honestly?!? This really falls into the same category as the posting in IM format. When cruising the MALL using your cel phones “text” feature to chat with your buddy cruising another MALL, that’s all find and dandy, but if you were attending a college, would you ask your professor or instructors questions without putting any effort forth into pushing the shift key on occasion, or proof reading your document? Those posts are unprofessional and even degrading to our community! HybridZ is NOT the MALL where teeny boppers hang out texting each other! I prefer to think of this forum as a collegiate high performance program, one that is available online at no cost, though a financial donation is always appreciated as this forum does require hardware and software to function which costs money. Maybe we should institute a tuition of sorts. Those willing to pay for this education and knowledgebase most likely have enough respect for others when communicating with them to at least make an effort to use some grammar and capitalization skills. A tuition high enough that will weed out the lazy that aren’t willing to search, capitalize, proof read their postings, and just want to be spoon fed everything! Some of us have spent a good portion of our lives playing with these cars and have been successful in some aspects, failed in others, and all that adds up to experience based knowledge that we earned the hard way, over time with bloody knuckles, busted parts, and eventually fast cars, yet we are willing to give that knowledge to others for free! We truly want to help fellow "car guys" along in their journey, but if they are too lazy to push down the shift key or proof read their post, how do they expect to receive a useful reply to their question let alone muster up the energy to open a toolbox drawer to grab a wrench to work on their car? If someone is too lazy to push the shift key when asking a technical question, I am starting to feel more and more compelled to not respond at all, or respond in a way that hopefully gets their attention to make an effort to ask with some respect and dignity, as the information they are about to receive could save them years of trial and error and lots of money on their projects. If you want professional information, make an effort to ask in a professional manner or go back the MALL! Whew.. That felt good getting that out…

These are great...

In its basic definition, a valve job consists of refacing the valve seat, reface the valve itself. Then measure the valve installed height and reface the valve tip till that valve installed height falls within spec. your less expensive shops don’t go through the trouble to set installed height. Also, if the top of the head has been surfaced in it previous life, the cam towers should be shimmed back up how much the head was surfaced on the top to maintain OE cam height above the valve train. For accurate cam timing, the cam towers should also be shimmed by how much the bottom of the head was surfaced as well, if the top was surfaced as well, (should be done any time the head is overheated), but then there is now more clearance between the cam centerline and the valve stems, necessitating thicker lash pads!!!! As you can see, even after getting the valve job “just right” in the first place, that is NO guarantee that the cam wipe pattern will be correct and the cam wont destroy itself in a matter minutes or hours. With most aftermarket cams, the opening and closing rates are so sedate, there is enough fudge factor that more often then not, as long as the valve job was done correctly, it will work fine, but you should never fall back on that. If the cam you are purchasing has a recommended lash pad thickness, do NOT trust those lash pads to be the ones that WILL fit, for the all reasons stated above. When setting up the cam EACH and EVERY cam lobe wipe pattern SHOULD be verified regardless! With aftermarket cams ground on fresh blanks, the consistency during the grind process is pretty good. Reground cams are not as consistent, even lobe to lobe on the same cam, and depending on how aggressive the lobe profile, will dictate how much fudge factor you have in lash pad thickness which could mean 4-5-or even 6 different lash pad thickness for one head! The Rebello cams we offer have such an aggressive profile that there is typically only ONE lash pad that will fit each valve, ie. NO fudge room WHAT-SO-EVER and you can NOT cheat the wipe pattern as the wipe pattern takes up 95% of the rocker wipe surface requiring extreme attention to be paid to the wipe pattern. A cam that is ground in this manner is going to have more lift under the curve and perform stronger than any off the shelf aftermarket cams with comparable lift/duration figures that only use up approx 80% of the wiping surface and will allow for cheating the wipe pattern. That is whole other topic for another thread I promised to write last year, (I had best get it finished huh?) Read through this thread linked below for a more in-depth understanding of the process involved in building, machining, and setting up cylinder head, pics included. Also, the SEARCH button is your friend... Clicm ME for "how to" build and setup a custom L-6 cylinder head. Hope that helps. Paul

By three holes, you mean one LARGE hole and 2 small holes correct?

Hmmm.. Someone changed my avatar. It is rather fitting, I think I'll leave it, and then ... ... administer retribution.

This one is EASY, but your gonna have to earn it yourself. 1) Purchase a Haynes Manual for whatever car you have. I’m assuming it is one of the several years of Z cars offered as you posted this question in a Z car forum, yet failed to give ANY specifics about the car, year, modifications, (if any), to the electrical system, what portions of what wiring harness did you verify power to and not to, etc. 2) Open the Haynes manual to the section that has the wiring diagram for your car, (generally in the back for the Z cars), and examine the wiring diagram for the EFI, note the power wire/s and the color of those wires. Now trace those wires with a test light/multi-meter back to the battery till you find the break. 3) Open this link below and read through it, paying particular attention to #3. Click ME! Good luck…

At least this inter-cooler is being fed by a turbo, not just and air filter!!!!

Patience grasshopper… the lights are on at Skunk Works… Do keep in mind, such a “kit” will come at a financial cost far exceeding the power it will produce as compared to traditionally built V-8’s, just to have that exhaust note. I believe there is a market here, though how large of a market that is actual willing to pony up the money it requires to do this, all for an exhaust note?...

Yes, there are a few ways. I’ll line out what I feel would be the simplest, least expensive bolt-in process which would apply to all domestic V-8’s, (this could even apply to other V-8’s) 1) Source a single plane crank. . a) Build it from scratch out of billet steel. . b) Have one of a handful of crankshaft manufactures build it to OE dimensions, though in single plane instead of traditional dual plane. 2) Contact a major cam manufactures and have them grind your favorite cam specs, but with the revised firing order, (revised single plane firing orders are listed below for Gen-I/II and LS-x SBC, and SBF). 3) Assemble your engine just as you would any other typical SBC, SBF, LS-x, headers, ignition etc, though for the intake, use some form of single plane intake manifold or Multi Port EFI manifold, i.e. NOT a dual plane manifold, and be sure you have now routed your plug wires for the “new” firing order. Add oil, turn key and enjoy…. Ok, in that scenario, for minimal out lay in cash, (compared to other options), you would have the “braaaaaaap” sound of a Ferrari V-8, with an engine that is “buzzy” feeling like a big displacement 4 cylinder , (think Volvo B23, etc), though the engine would still “perform” very much like a traditional stock cranked domestic V-8 with that same cam, induction, etc, including the same RPM range. Ferrari’s, like that 360 Modena in the video above, rev to an 8500 RPM Redline, so keep that in mind if/when you build your flat plane crank SBC/SBF. With similar mufflers, it will sound the same as the Ferrari, just not rev as high, unless you build the engine with uber exotic NASCAR technology and valve train components, or, as discussed previously in this thread with a custom ultra short stroke crank, though valve train for a mega RPM domestic V-8 would need to be sorted out, more than likely quite expensive as "street driven" pushrod valve trains are not really conducive to lots of RPM without lots of tech and money thrown at them. And for those interested, here is the Ferrari “firing pattern” transposed to SBC/LS-x and SBF engines utilizing “mirror image” single plane crank, as used by Ferrari, Formula-1, and IRL/indy league single plane V-8’s... SBC and LSx Cylinder numbering; -2-4-6-8 1-3-5-7 Single plane Chev firing order of; 1-8-5-4-7-2-3-6 SBF Cylinder number; 1-2-3-4 -5-6-7-8 Single plane Ford firing order; 1-8-3-6-4-5-2-7 When I was referring to “mirror image” single plane cranks, this picture shows the two options for a single plane crank design. The mirror image crank, in green has less “couple” induced vibrations the than other blue style; This tire picture shows couple induced vibration; Crank manufactures that can and will build you any crankshaft in any configuration and any specs; SCAT http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm EAGLE http://www.eaglerod.com/ Bryant Cola And there are few others. Ferrari 360 Modena V-8 engine…

Yeah, My-space does seem to be the popular new mode of communication. It’s good to know they were doing something positive for our troops . Our prayers are with them all.

Sure did. I went out the shop, opened the car door of the Z on Jack stands and intently staring at the driver seats, watched "MY-SPACE” After about 30 seconds of that I was totally bored with watching MY-SPACE and picked up a wrench and did something constructive in/with “MY-SPACE” so that I can share with others, the dynamic and reactive environment that My-Space provides, not by clicking mind you, but by mashing the loud pedal at opposite steering lock! What is it with this MY-SAPCE stuff anyhow? Seems like some sort of half bit personal mini forum of sorts, more of a waste of time than a technical high performance automotive forum, in my not so humble opinion.

(after watching that vid again, full body chill....) YES!!!! We want our V-8 to sound like the V-8 in THAT video! We know how they did it, (documented in this thread), now we need to duplicate it ourselves!!!! Muhahahah ahahaha .....

No, never ran it on a dyno. Best guess was between 190-210 crank HP.

You could always just rotate the shafts and count the ratio! That way you would know for sure and not just have ratio someone told that it might or might not be.

YES! Aftermarket EMS allows you to tune tout compromise to WOT performance or cruise mileage. The OE EFI is HUGE compromise. The more mods done, the larger the compromise. The OE EFI does NOT play well with aftermarket cams. Being able to get rid of the AFM from the air stream allows all sorts of freedom in induction routing and removes that restriction from he air stream. As to which aftermarket EMS to choose? Depends on your budget, your savvy as computer user/customizer, time available for the construction/installation of the EMS. Here is a listing of the stand alone EMS's… Click ME for the listing of after-market EMS and the links to those manufactures Also, search through the different EMS sections here on HybridZ. Here is my not so humble opinion on a few of the systems. Megasquirt; Low entry cost, very research intensive regarding figuring it out and setting up a lap top and also somewhat sensitive to EMF, so long as you follow tried and tested procedures to reduce the chances of EMF interference, it works fine. Again, MS requires not much money on initial investment compared to the other stand alones, but you must possess a savvy grasp on PC software, (not just knowing how to turn the computer on and surf the web, much deeper PC geek configuration stuff, or at least the desire to want to learn), and also the patience, time, AND ability to SEARCH and RESEARCH many forums, not just HybridZ, but the other Mega Squirt dedicated forums. SDS; A bit more costly than Mega Squirt, probably the simplest in terms of it overall architecture compared to the other available EMS's, not as many fine tuning options as the other stand alones, but its simplicity and over all excellent functionality make it an excellent choice, even for full tilt dedicated race cars. WOLF 3d; in my opinion, the Wolf 3d is the one of the better bang for the buck standalone systems with all it is options, controllability, map blending, resolution, number of supported cylinders for distributor-less ignition, etc. Covers everything from stock engines to full tilt Turbo AND Nitrous fed, staged sequential fuel injected, distributor less ignition, V-8’s and everything in between. I ran Megasquirt on my L-28 last year, bought Wolf 3d for my next V-8Z project. Currently running Wolf 3D “Direct Fit” in my ’93 Z-32 and LOVE IT! Saving up for another WOLF-3d System because I like its flexibility, user friendliness and overall functionality “that much!” Sure it cost approx 1/4-1/2 as much more than a MS system, but in my not so humble opinion, that extra cost more than covers the headaches endured tinkering/configuring Megasquirt up to the point of start up, for us mere mortals with mild to moderate PC savvy. Again, that is just my personal opinion. AEM, Haltech, Electromotive; all are well known powerful stand alone EFI systems and each has their strengths, and are all good systems. To determine which one suites your EFI/ignition needs/requirements and budget, you'll have to determine that on your own. The link above has links to the manufactures of those Engine Management Systems. Have fun and good luck.

NO turbo, (have never had a Turbo Z car, at least yet any how) This was an N/A '75 L-28 short block dished pistons. Head was an N-47 from a '77 car, (same as the '75-'76 N-42, but with round exhaust ports with liners). Here is a picture of that engine as it ran described above. The EFI is bone stock, AFM, injectors, manifold throttle valve, etc all original '75 parts, just cleaned up cosmetically with a 1" diameter aluminum tube as a fuel rail, nothing special. Oh, I forgot to mention one little detail (sorry guys). I did un-shroud the valves in the head and blended the back side of the exhaust seat into the liner, no work in the intake, valve job was just a kiss on the valves and seats. For those keeping score at home, that cylinder head was my VERY first attempt at enhancing cylinder head flow, and what started the ball rolling for our business as it is today.

So who wants Oxy Moronic?

I need to back up. Sorry about that. As Jon mentioned above, first off verify your timing and AFR’s are in check using a dyno. That will give you a good solid baseline for verifying if changes in tuning either improved or hurt, and where those improvements were made or lost. If your timing and AFR’s are not in check, just throwing parts at it won’t help. Tune tune tune… That is how I get a BONE stock, 8.1: compression L-28 in 2800 lbs Z car with stock EFI, stock throttle stock cam, to run 14.4 @ 97. It took me 3 years of tuning, but for a stock L-28, it ran REALLY well, and even got 28 MPG on the freeway! Again, take it to a dyno and verify AFRs are correct and you are getting adequate ignition timing, (34-36 degrees btdc) by 3000 RPM and up.

Uhm yeah, that is stock slow. What was your MPH? I’ve seen un touched L-28 powered 280-Z’s running mid to high 16’s in the mid to high 80 MPH range. For what its worth, a “dialed in” bone stock low compression N/A L-28 with the stock L-28 cam, stock EFI and stock throttle valve, ran 14.4 sec @ 97 MPH, in my ’75 280 that weighed 2800 lbs with me and half tank of gas. It did have a header, recurved ignition, light flywheel, and over 3 years of “dialing it in”. I’d expect a stroker with cam, headers, etc to run at least mid to low 15’s, though mid to low 14’s is attainable. If you are using the stock ECU, one thing that stands out as mismatched is the stock ECU and performance cam. The stock ECU does NOT play well with big cams. Best bet is to keep the cam and step up to aftermarket EFI to make use of that cam and get rid of the AFM from the air steam. That and making sure you are able to run between 34-36 degrees total ignition timing will more than likely get you where that motor should be running, which is a lot better than it is now. By the way, what is your total mechanical advance right now? By that I mean, with the engine is at say 3500-400 RPM, vacuum advance disconnected, how much advance is there? Max power will be 34-36 degrees. That 34-36 degrees should be in by no more than 3000 RPM, more like 2500 rpm or so. If you don’t have a dial-back-to-zero timing light to verify this, typically having the stock distributor set at between 15-17 degrees advance at idle, vs the stock 10-12 degrees is ball park, so long as the mechanical flyweights are working and allowing the timing to advance as RPMS rise. If the engine rattles/pings at this timing setting with pump gas, then your comp ratio is too high and possibly mixture is little lean, as such you'll have to back timing out till it doesn’t rattle anymore, which will be giving up power that engine is capable of producing. Good luck, Paul