BRAAP

It’s about time we had a dedicated V-8 ITB/IR thread. Lets please keep this to V-8 ITBs I’ll start… Domestic

VERY cool indeed. I agree with Aziza. If Nissan built this, we’d all be lining up around the corner for it. Of course we all have our own little ideas of what a modern retro S-30 should look like. In my eyes, this is the one of the nicest designs I’ve seen. His renderings keep many of the original S-30 key features such as the cab backwards design, sugar scoop headlight buckets, the swooping rear quarter lights, hood bulge, subtle hip arch over the rear wheels, rolled under body lines from the mid section down, etc. Maybe a little more retro on the tail lights and exaggerate the blacked out tail panel a little more and wa la… It is a very nice flowing, well thought-out concept as is. Kudos to the gentleman who did the work.

That is the spindle pin. Nissan sells those new. Search this and other Z car forums for "Spindle Pin Removal" and you'll find a couple different ways to successfully remove that pin. Oh, and don't forget to the remove the wedge bolt first. The little nut on the bottom of the hub, in between the those two bigger nuts. Once you remove that nut, you need to tap that wedge bolt out. Good luck, Paul

Aux, Is Captn’s car a 240? I recall the electrical portion of the ignition switches are different and I forget which it is but one will not charge the ignition circuit while cranking. One way to eliminate this ignition switch as the possible issue is to turn the key to the ON position, and “jump” the starter, at the starter, not at the ignition switch. If the engine starts and runs, the switch is the problem and an easy fix. If you don’t have one of those starter bump switches, you can use a long screw driver. At the starter, with the little spade connector unplugged, allow the screw driver to contact the terminal that has the battery wire AND contact the male spade on the starter itself at the same time. It will spark, so be absolutely sure there is no fuel or other combustibles near by. This will engage the starter and the engine will turn over and hopefully start. Let us know what you find…

If you are “Dragging” one wheel i.e. that one wheel is NOT rolling at all, check for seized brake components including parking brake linkage, seized wheel bearings, completely busted Half shaft, etc. If you are referring to the fact that when you “peel out” you only leave one black tire stripe, that is perfectly normal as the diff is what is called an OPEN diff. To leave two black stripes, you need to have both tires equally loaded or better yet, install a Limited Slip or locked differential. And please make an effort to use proper English and grammar. Instant-Message style posting is not accepted here on this forum. Capitalize and punctuate as necessary. We are not asking for perfect, just please make an effort to use the keyboards SHIFT key and punctuate. Thank you, Paul

Happy 51st birthday Dave.

My advice is to keep the mature upper hand and make sure he gets his parts back. Don’t damage the parts, no retaliation, just ship them back with delivery confirmation. Either he will “get it” and personally take ownership of his poor choices or he will be shunned by enough of the Z community to take his shady practices elsewhere. That’s my $.02

And even more…

And more…

My brother sent me that picture above a little while back and something about it just makes my sides ache in laughter every time I look at it, almost to the point of tears. I don’t understand why, it is just hits my funny button in a big way… Well apparently, this LOLrus is a celebrity and others have taken the saga and ran with it. Here is what I’ve uncovered thus far. Enjoy…

And so it starts… One measly picture of a Walrus and his blue Bucket…

No, really! I’ve read many of your posts, and I KNOW for fact that some of you need a clue, or at least an upgrade. Don't be shy. Recognizing your clue deficiency is the first step to recovery...

WOW! This thread is enlightening. I am amazed at how many people did NOT read what Phil described that did NOT blow up in the very first post, yet some of you still guessed the items that Phil said did NOT blowup!

If this is an EFI car, clogged fuel filter, fuel pump, NOT vapor lock! If you are certain it is indeed vapor lock and you ahve EFI, please give a very detailed description of how and why you came to that confirmation. Oh, and more than half the time you think it is fuel related, it ends up being ignition related, so do NOT rule out ignition issues such as dying coil, bad plug wires, etc.

The Thermotime switch has ABSOLUTLEY NO control over the fuel pump! Zmaster, for the LOVE of GOD, GET your Haynes manual out AND TRACE the wiring!!!!

WHERE is your HAYNES Manual? You do have one by now right?

That's twice Aux has RickRolled us now!!! Good one Aux..

Depends on MANY factors and I don’t understand the point in this question as it applies to this discussion?

Here is a mixture controller I built a little while back that I gave to Ron Tyler. That was my “tuning” box for tuning customers OE EFI. It gets wired into the water temp sender, or for diagnosing can be used in place of the water temp sender. The dial is variable resistor (POT) and is 0-1000 ohms. I also included a single pole double throw switch that in one direction was just he POT, in the other direction added another 1000 ohms to whatever the variable resistor was set at, middle was open circuit, infinite ohms and will flood the engine, not useful. For seat of the pants tuning, with POT at say 250 ohms, I could then flip the switch at WOT and feel/hear/see any difference in how the car ran in real time. I would just narrow down the resistance value to what the engine likes best using that method and then once I narrowed it down, I would just add a resistor with that value in series the water temp sender. Of course there was also fiddling with AFM spring tension for par throttle cruise. On the dyno, just turn the dial till the engine made max power. Simple.

I agree

Happy Birthday Phil.

If the engine is the stock 77, it should be an N-47 head. As such, due to drastic compression ratio differences using the P-79 and P-90 heads with OE ’77 dished pistons, (all that info is already here in the stickies of the L-6 forum along with all the performance benefits of the various heads as well), and the E-88 head is not drilled for the EFI manifold or the injectors, so the N-47 is really the only logical choice in your list, so long as it is a Z car N-47 and NOT the Maxima N-47. Again, that info is already here in the stickies.

Aziza, You need to start posting with proper English. This is the third time I've made mention of this to you. Please read BOTH of these threads below, and when posting here on HybridZ in the future, lose the IM texting. I will not be mentioning this to you or asking any more. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131518 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115824 Paul Ruschman HybridZ staff

Bo, I'm really sorry to hear that. Please keep us updated.

That's funny. I have no problems locating the "edit thread" button and changing thread titles.