BRAAP

WHOA there fella's!!!!! Blind leading the blind here.. not good… Don't take this wrong, but a zip tie only?!?!? You are, uh, well brave!!!! The timing chain tool is shaped that way for a reason, not because it looks pretty. The block of wood is to keep the spring loaded tensioner from popping out of its holder, (the dooo-hickey next to the "front oil galley plug" in the picture below). Before attempting such an endeavor, you should be looking in your service manual or your Haynes manual! If that tensioner pops out, you will HAVE to remove the front cover to put it all back together, a major pain in the arse, especially if the motor is till in the car!

I think the point was that time invested per HP gained, the cam swap is a couple/few hour process and yields a more significant gain. The port work, if it can be done should be done regardless if you install an aftermarket cam or not. The porting will make a difference, even for a stock engine, though the gains to be had will be greater with the bigger cam as the added lift and duration the cam provides, allows the engine to breathe even deeper. If the head is going to be off and torn down, it will only cost you your time, not much money, and if you have the time, by all means carve on the head. The LS-1 will yield a significant gain in torque AND power everywhere in the the rev range, from idle to redline. Just image double the power you have now, every where in the power band. The ONLY way to do that with an the L-6 is add boost. N/A, even race prepped, wont produce the amount of torque a stock LS-1 does and that Race prepped L-6 will be not pleasant on the street, and require frequent tear downs and rebuilds, and still might not even perform to the level the stock LS-1 does. The LS-1 will be much more street friendly, the wife could use to get groceries, comfortably, and MORE POWER all the time, at any time, for 150,000+ miles... My $.02 Take care, Paul

That Lambo has a V-12 engine, though that particular Lambo's exhaust note is not typical of V-12 exhaust notes, which is generally quite similar to the inline 6, just smoother and more refined sounding in my opinion, (due to its evenly spaced firings and paired/joined primaries). Inline 6 and V-12’s have a smooth voice with a bit of an accent. More of a brrrraaaap vs baaaaaap, a growling GRRRR in the tone.. (that’s the best way I could describe it any how). That particular V-12 though didn’t have much of that GRRR in it’s note like a typical V-12. It sounded more like a single plane V-8, either way, it sounds incredible… Here is an example of how the typical V-12 normally sounds, you can make out the V-12 growl in the tone...

You were definitely excited in the video. Way cool.. Loved the "bark" at the end.

As I understand it, this is that same or similar engine?…

Title says it all…

V-12 tank engine, WOW! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2T0RM4BpUI

I also shorten the valve guides up the roof of the port, thereby removing even more material out of the air stream. Down side is increased valve stem and valve guide wear as the guide is now shorter, and with big cams, that situation is exaggerated even further. Typically speaking, stock, the valves, guides, and seats will last in order of 200,000+ miles and still have adequate valve stem to valve guide clearance. Add a cam, shortened valve guides, you might get 60,000-100,000 miles out of the valves and guides. Keep in mind that when someone builds an engine with the bigger cam, this sort of port work, (moderately hot builds) the engine will be torn down for rebuild or even further enhancements in less than 100,000 miles, which at that time, the head will be overhauled/reconditioned as well.

Daniel, I have found that moderate to aggressive unshrouding removes approx 2 cc per chamber. You can spend more time in the chambers performing clean up as Jon did and gain a little more volume. Just as Jon said, because you are using aftermarket EFI, a cam is going to be fastest, easiest source for altering the attitude of your engine. If you are removing the head and plan to tear it down, then by all means, unshroud the valves. No loss in doing so, only gains to be had, even for stock engine. While the head is apart, work a little on that step in the roof of the exhaust port that surrounds the exhaust valve guide, just as shown in post #15 of your DIY valve unshrouding thread. It is easiest if the valve guide is out of the way, (I just drive the guide part way out as seen in the pics in post #15). Zmanco's "Valve Unshrouding" thread Hope that helps… Paul

Or a Cessna, same/similar part...

That is AWESOME Hugh.. Congratulations...

Looks very nice, impressive.

Are you absolutely, positively sure about that request?... Ah heck, you’re a donating member so you can always ask to have it changed if you don’t like it…

For those new to this thread and concept of single plane V-8 crankshafts, (there was some confusion as to what they are), Here is some more info; Here is another cool link… http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cowdery.org.uk/images/engines/Flatplane.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.cowdery.org.uk/cranks.php&h=301&w=351&sz=319&hl=en&start=22&sig2=a8Uz6ESTEWcMiLiCXYZS6g&um=1&tbnid=2pwGPwAKkZ5MNM:&tbnh=103&tbnw=120&ei=3U7ER7C6NqD4gAOQ5JDUCA&prev=/images%3Fq%3D180%2Bdegree%2BV8%2BCrankshaft%26start%3D18%26ndsp%3D18%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den%26sa%3DN Dual Plane V-8 Single plane V-8

Czech, I realize your question stemmed out of that thread Ron linked you back to. Regarding the difference between a single plane and dual plane crankshaft, performance wise, the performance difference is typically only realized for the for the deep race budgets, ie. Factory backed racers. For us privateers and our street cars and grass roots race cars, single V-8 cranks merely alter the firing order giving the engine a different exhaust note, no noticeable power gain or loss, and makes it a little more “buzzy”. Dual plane V-8 cranks are typical of the Domestic V-8, the Infiniti and Lexus V-8 as well. They have a rumble bumble exhaust note. You may have noticed they sound a lot like a Harley V-twin. So you can think of a Chevy, Ford, Dodge V-8 as being 4 V-twins stacked together sharing a common crankshaft. Now single plane crank V-8s sound a lot like an inline cylinder, (Ferrari V-8 is one example as well as the Infiniti Indy-car engine uses a single plane, same exhaust note). As such, think of these V-8’s with single plane cranks as two inline 4 cylinder engines sharing a common crank. Dual plane V-8 are much smoother in operation, ie. Don’t’ vibrate much, though their exhaust pulse are not equal spaced between each bank, hence the rough lumpity rumbly tone. Single plane cranks allow for more precise exhaust tuning which is said to be worth a little bit of power, but at the level we are building, tuning, and driving our Z cars, we would reap the potential gains that exhaust tuning would allow. Also, single plane V-8’s are inherently buzzy, just like an inline four cylinder ie. Bigger displacement exaggerates that buzziness. This short thread also covers the single plane, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121029&highlight=Single+Plane+Crank Here is some more info, (I’ll also post this in the Exotic V-8 thread as well.) Here is another cool link… http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cowdery.org.uk/images/engines/Flatplane.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.cowdery.org.uk/cranks.php&h=301&w=351&sz=319&hl=en&start=22&sig2=a8Uz6ESTEWcMiLiCXYZS6g&um=1&tbnid=2pwGPwAKkZ5MNM:&tbnh=103&tbnw=120&ei=3U7ER7C6NqD4gAOQ5JDUCA&prev=/images%3Fq%3D180%2Bdegree%2BV8%2BCrankshaft%26start%3D18%26ndsp%3D18%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den%26sa%3DN Dual Plane V-8 Single plane V-8

Oh, you’re behind alright… ALWAYS behind…

It was toss up. Quarter landed "heads" so you got Fish Lips over Fish Member Apparently the forum owner didn’t like the title I picked..

Yasin, Just a heads up incase you weren’t aware. The ECU pinouts are completely different between the ’77 and ’78 EFI. I.e. ’78 is it own animal regarding pin outs at the ECU and its harness is configured differently in what wires are powered and ground’s etc. I am pretty sure the ’75-’77 will interchange though… Hope that helps…. Take care, Paul Oh, I’ll move this request over to the parts wanted section in a little bit…

Jehannum, Sure enough, my sensor is still in the stock location, pushing against the upper opening portion of the fasica, just as your pictures show, which explains why the grill mounting holes don’t line up so well on the grill… Thank you again for taking the time to point that out and post pictures. Greatly appreciated. Thank you, Paul

Careful fella's. Princesses aren't what they appear on the outside... All cute and sweet one minute....

Quick.. Someone screen shot SuperDan's...

Hmmm.. Never seen one those before. All the ones I have seen or dealt with flip the switch when the guard is closed. You could just grind out material from the cover to "clear" the switch or use a shorter toggle that will clear the cover when it is closed. How about this style below? It will function similarly in that it allows the switch to be in any position at all times and also protects the switch from inadvertent operation/activation due to “busy” environments. http://www.space1.com/Artifacts/Artifacts_FOR_SALE/FS__Switch_Guard/fs__switch_guard.html

Okie dokie... Larry, Cozy Z Cole, got his just now to... I'm sure he'll approve... Someone please screen shot it and post it here :lmao:

Next you’ll find his parents Briggs & Stratton lawn mower with one cylinder of a butchered VH45DE cylinder head, one primary tube of a rusty L-28 header on it and the smog pump off of a ‘70’s Chevy pickup as a Super Charger!..

Thank you guys for the support. The funny thing is that only 2 of the donating members have asked to have their title changed to something other than what we gave them?.. Birdman was tough, With his RB26, "Reciprocating Bird 26" is all I could come up with.. Datsun40146 "KRAFT Mac & Cheese" was just off the cuff, nothing to do with his financial situation…