BRAAP

The short and simple answer is NO! All things being equal, including HP per Cubic-Inch, for comparably built engines, 377 and 406, the larger engine will make power at the same RPM, AND/OR the same power at a lower RPM, whichever scenario you choose to take advantage of. A smaller engine has to rev more to produce the same power as a larger engine. The more you have to rev the engine to get the power you need, the shorter its life will be, again all things being equal. Some might say, “Well then just use better parts in the 377 to make it more reliable!” I say, “Then why not use those same higher quality parts in the 406?” I’m sure you get the point. Sure, a shorter stroke does take some of the stress off the pistons, rods and crank versus a longer stroke engine, but the valve train still has work harder at the higher RPMs to produce the same power as the larger engine. Also, bearing wear is greater at higher RPM’s, regardless of the stroke. In short, parroting what Doc already said, build as big as you can to make as much power as you can, and the engine will live a longer healthy life. Remember, the less it has to work at producing the power you require, the easier it is on parts which will extend your TBO, (Time Between Overhauls). So in this instance, bigger really IS, better! Good luck, Paul

Stony, It's all good... I interpreted your post as a question of using a paper gasket in general in a turbo engine regardless of the manufacturer, which is a good question. Generally, the metal gasket is the preferred choice for turbo cars, so long as everything is up to snuff. Take care, Paul

After he gets home from the grocery store with their finest box of wine, how else is he going to cook his steak?

Gentleman, Ahem… Out the tail pipe, this popping is called after-fire, opposite of back-fire which is popping back through the induction. His exhaust pipes are only 5' long! Deceleration mixture is rich! This is not harmful to the engine, but can be stressful on the exhaust system depending on the severity of the after-firing that is taking place. Before anyone else attempts their best guess, please read this link; Before you guess at the answer, please click ME!

If the engine is stock and you don’t alter the fuel or timing, that standard head gasket “should” be just fine and hold up under “normal” combustion, but if any abnormal combustion, i.e. detonation arises, like I said earlier; In asking a question like that in the first place, if your plan is to run other than stock boost, or you are installing an aftermarket EMS and going to tune it yourself, search and read, SEARCH and READ, then search and read some more on what it takes to keep the head gasket from popping before you turn your first wrench, i.e. fueling requirements, timing requirements etc for a given boost level and that the parts you intend to use are up to the task, fuel pump, injectors, ignition system, etc. A borrowed and altered aviation quote fits well here; Good luck, Paul

Sorry to hear this. It is always disheartening when this happens and I feel your pain and frustration. With that said, why is it when a head gasket blows, everyone is quick to blame the manufacturer of the head gasket because it didn’t contain detonation??? Now everyone please understand this, especially if you are building/tuning Turbo cars for other people. Regardless of the manufacturer of the head gasket, it will blow if there is detonation! (or if the gasket is old and the engine was neglected for several years or over heated). ½" inch ARP head studs, metal head gaskets etc, will NOT stop the release of combustion gasses to the atmosphere via the block-to-head interface if detonation is present and extreme enough. A blown head gasket is just your proof positive indicator that detonation was present and those detonation pressures were high enough and rose quick enough to literally lift the head, releasing the clamp on the gasket, allowing the fire ring to blow out. If you use a head gasket that is more resistant to blowing out and also increase the clamping pressure with studs or larger studs, you may have contained the detonation longer, but the next weakest link WILL let go if the gasket doesn’t and that is generally even more expensive to repair. Felpro head gaskets are NOT weak in the fire ring. The Fire Ring of the Felpro L-series head gaskets will contain the pressures of NORMAL combustion, even at elevated boost. If there is any abnormal combustion, I don’t care what gasket is being used, all bets are off for the gasket maintaining its seal between the head and block. The biggest and only issue of the Felpro head gaskets for the L-series is the weeping of coolant, externally only, on the passenger side of engine on cars that tend to sit for extended periods, like over winter. I do advocate the use of metal head gaskets in boosted L-series, especially if the engine has proven itself to withstand higher boost levels with no issues, but only if there are no issues. The standard head gaskets are a nice early warning indicator that something still needs attention if it blows, i.e. detonation is present. I just hate to see gasket manufacturers blamed for something the manufacturer has no control over. L-series are detonation sensitive to begin with. Add boost and that sensitivity is exaggerated, as twistex just experienced. There are members here that successfully push 20-25+ PSI boost on their engines over and over for years with no issues, and there are others that have blown head gaskets at a mere 12-14 lbs the first time they reach that boost level. The main difference is attention to detail in the “tune” (fuel, timing, and maintaining “safe” combustion temps). The successful just don’t crank up the boost until they are comfortable that all their bases are covered in reducing the possibility of detonation as best they can. By the way, Dave does successfully use Felpro head gaskets on his N/A engines. I’m not sure what he uses on his boosted engines. Again, I'm sorry to hear about this as it is not only time and money consuming, but no fun to deal with and come to terms with when it does happen. Just keep in mind that this happens to even the best of builders and tuners. That is how the good tuners become good! Hope you are able to get it back up and running in short order.

Remove the two nuts that attach the mustache bar to the differential and use a big pry bar to pry the mustache bar off of the differential! The mustache bar is "spring steel" and will flex. No need to remove any studs.

TomZ. Your car sounds like it is a monstrously fun car. V-8 turbo charged with 20 lbs of boost! Impressive indeed… Good work. With that said, based on your defensive post and the rationalization behind it AND the fact that the RPM’s you quoted those HP and Torque figures still don't jive, I’m assuming those quoted TRQ and HP figures at those quoted RPMS are not actual tested dyno figures. I’m not trying to be rude, just factual. I don't understand posting Trq and HP numbers at specific RPM's if they are not peak numbers? If that is the useable power band range you drive the car in, why not ALSO include the peak figures and at what RPM those peaks occur? Not only would that help fill the holes in your post, but it would also offer considerably more HELP to the question you are attempting to help answer regarding cams and power bands. We would love to see your Dyno sheet. What facility did you Dyno the car at? Any ¼ mile time slips with "as raced" vehicle weight?

That is OMG amazing and sort of scary at the same time.

The ignition module is solid state, nothing in it can click.

You are referring to THE resistor. I think it was a #9 resistor. Just search for "number 9 resistor". Worth noticable gains HP.

Jon, This is confusing to me. I always thought it was a crush sleeve as well. Back in the mid ‘90’s, I thought I could just remove the input flange and replace it on my R-200, torque to spec just as ZCARNUT stated above. After Torque to spec with a freshly calibrated Snap-On torque wrench, it howled every since! Is there any formal documentation showing it as a reusable “shim” and not a one time use “Crush sleeve”? My howling diff experience and this SHIM info now has me all confused as to what really took place causing my R-200 to howl after removing and reinstalling the input flange.

Oh, you don’t want the slick top, trust me. I’ll come down, give you a song and dance for that car and save you from that slick top.

HP is a guestimate based on actual ¼ mile ran and scaled vehicle weight. ’75 280Z SBC V-8 WC/T-5 2950# with driver and half tank gas approx 330-340 crank HP-12.3 sec @ 113mph

Lamm, Thought I'd help out as you seem to have forgotten HybridZ rule #3.

But does your wife know? Maybe I should have a chat with her....

Ron is full of color. All the colors of the RAINBOW !!!

Oh, Please, no more Community Chest!!! With the onslaught of ridiculous grammar challenged posts, Mall stalkers with their IM chat style posts, and erroneous used terminology becoming more and more prevalent here, I feel like I have been kicked in the Mommy Daddy button several times over already... Please, have mercy...

You know, like your user name "e_racer"

Ditto!

It's not as gamy as Honda, that's for sure..

“… eating crow….” Ok, so “maybe” you didn’t have fore knowledge and “maybe” my wife is getting a little cocky with her forum savvy… I’m gonna go brush up on my CSI skills now… You’re still a Butt-faced Wombat.

Who calling feeble minded, Junior? Again, you keep denying involvement, yet for a “certain someone” to perform this drive by avataring to my account, you had to have fore knowledge of the incident so that “certain someone” could proceed! Ok, now you’re busted?