BRAAP

Happy Birthday Matt. Party safe and designate a driver.

T-56 for GM LSx.

I just started thinking about mount options. The mount pads on the engine block and cross member mount holes is essentially a direct line up and should allow for several options regarding getting the engine mounted. The mounting of the engine will be one of the easier tasks in this conversion. We will just have to be sure to build them so that they don't interfere with the exhaust manifolds/headers. My initial thought is to utilize the Z-32 fluid filled isolator and just build the spacer that goes between the block and that, (again being sure not to crowd the exhaust manifold). I like the Z-32 fluid mounts as they allow the engine to float keeping vibrations, noise, and harshness down, yet they don’t allow the engine to "wind up" from torque during acceleration and deceleration. I distinctly remember my old 1982 Volvo Turbo Wagon and its soft mushy engine mounts. Apply throttle and you could feel the power train wind up and then unwind as you lifted. VERY annoying! These Z-32 mounts don’t exhibit that tendency.

Art, By cam and kit, you mean the recommended valve springs correct? You shouldn’t be readjusting the lash over and over. If you are, then something is wrong. Sounds like either something is wearing WAY too fast and way too much or possibly you are not tightening the lash adjuster jam nuts tight enough. Items to look at; 1) Worn Cam lobes. 2) Worn rocker wiping surface. 3) Worn lash-pad/rocker tip. 4) Valve seats moving in the head either falling out or valves are recessing into the seat. (not likely, but has been known to happen with the older heads and the soft intake seats). 5) Or your lash adjuster jam nuts are not being locked down tight enough and they adjusting as the engine is running.

I don't understand. Why would you ask "here" for a CarFax report when you can go directly to the source, especially if you are willing to pay for this service? http://www.carfax.com/ Just cut and paste the VIN number into the field for VIN, enter your payment, and wa-la...

Pictures were posted in the parts for sale section some time back. Head is sold and now is in California, hopefully to be up and running this summer. For what its worth, another HBZ member, very credible source of technical L series info, contacted me with a similar report using the N/A cam on his boosted L-6.

PERFECT! Thank you so VERY much! The last picture is EXACTLY what I needed! I have between 50.8 and 63.5 MM clearance from the top of the open cast box for the shifter to the top of the trans tunnel. With the plastic housing at 46-47 mm, that leaves me 3.8-16.5 mm clearance, (at 47mm), between the top of that plastic housing and the trans tunnel (.15"-.65"). That means I CAN use the GTO trans and shifter set up in the Z-32 LSx conversion without cutting the firewall or trans tunnel! WOO HOOO... Worst case, I would have use the BFH to add just a tad more clearance if necessary. Thank you,

GORGEOUS! Something about triples that stirs the heart...

I’m looking for the height of the plastic GTO shifter housing. From the trans casting to top of the GTO shifter housing, dimension between the green lines. For the Z-32 LSx conversion.

Salivating....

NICE!!!! Thanks for sharing...

'75 280-Z, mild SBC 355, World Class T-5, daily driver, ran a 12.3 @ 113 MPH on cheesy 195 60 HR 14" all season street trires. Excuse the mess. Picture shot just after the initial fire up... Same engine with Edelbrock ProFlo EFI just prior to selling. (Never did run it with the EFI...)

Original BRAAP Z; The race car;

I have a pair JTR engine mounts, (plates and spacers) and the hood bracket. They are for sale though I want them to go with the engine that I am getting ready to advertise. This was for my own personal V-8-Z car project, (’75 280 shell), I had acquired all the engine parts, (minus the cam and headers), all machine work has been performed, and recently the project was scrapped in favor of pursuing another V-8 Z project documented elsewhere here. Engine is a SBC 350, unassembled, ready to assemble, set up for boost, 8.5:1 compression, new Scat crank and rods, KB blower/Turbo pistons, aluminum ARP studs through out including the oil pump, Zero deck block, Plateau-hone cylinder finish, brand new TFS Kenny Duttweiler signature aluminum heads, shortest possible sump oil pan complete with trap door baffling and kickouts, (identical to the one I used in my first V-8-Z, fits beautifully) yadda yadda. Let me know if this is of interest to you and I can PM you the specific details with part numbers etc. Well over $7000 in parts and machine work here for less than that, ready for you to assemble. I planned to use an Eaton M112 super charger which I might also include. This engine is also idea for a Turbo or two. My other JTR parts, drive-shaft flange on the end of the aluminum drive-shaft and T-56 are sold.

Moved.

I heard that!?!?! .. WAY cool power-plant! Yamaha now brings the benefit of the dual plane crank to an inline 4 cyl application for the masses!

John, Good to hear that you found the issue, sorry to hear it was so involved. Looking forward to hearing how it runs on all 8!

Correct. Cylinders 1-6 paired to the first firing coil; Cylinders 2-5 paired on the next firing coil; Cylinders 3-4 paired up on the last firing coil.

Nice work! Good to see more of you guys using EDIS-6. How much clearance do you have between the heads of the bolts for the trigger wheel adapter on the back of the damper and the front cover/oil pump? I seem to recall that being a pretty tight space. Again, nice work.

Happy 18th Birthday Derek. Your wisdom is beyond your years...

Have another Z-32 that I refer to as the Mock-up mule. More of a Mock University having had a fully assembled Datsun L-26, SBC 350, VH45DE, a 5.3 LM7 and a 5.7 LS1 stabbed into it engine bay. Will probably stab an L-16 in as well, because we can! With the LS1 mocked up;

Latest update. Dropped the cross member ¾” simulating an engine drop of ¾” lower than yesterdays mock up! WOOHOO!!! Now we have hood clearance! Now to find a way to get the rack exactly 1” lower in the car without negatively affecting the front suspension geometry too much. Regardless, this is 100% GO! Started the official build thread here; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143967 Here are some pics of today’s mock up. The motor mounts and X-member mount hole alignment; Intake-Firewall clearance; Heater outlets into passenger cylinder head; TB-hood clearance; Trans mount alignment; Underside of engine with pan removed;

The VG30DE is BONE stock, (for sale), only mod is WOLF V-500 direct fit stand alone EMS that I ran in it for a while! Currently back under OE Nissan EMS control for those interested in buying the VG30DE, can drive it with the EMS that comes with it! LOVE the WOLF EMS and hope to use it with the LSx.

Chassis mods. Specialty Z brake kit front and rear with braided lines! Couldn’t be more happy with OE sized brakes! Rotors are 5lbs lighter than OE per wheel! (just installed my second set of front pads, LOVE these brakes!) Installed ’90 aluminum calipers up front as well! All front bushings have been replaced with poly except for the upper arms. Rear sub frame solid mounted, all bushings are currently OE. Tokico 5 way Illumina struts on all for corners, added a hole in the rear interior panels for easy adjusting. Tokico adjuster access;