BRAAP

Yeup, early Monkey motion style. With it exposed as you have it in the picture, move the shifter around. If it is moves excessively in the cast piece, either your rubber bushings are worn out, gone, or the nut on the bottom is loose. On the bottom of the shift lever will be the nut, in front of and underneath your index finger in the picture. Verify it is tight. Hope that helps, Paul

Simple... The answer is; In-Ess-Ex

In need of the GTO shifter mounting body/cover etc. I have the shift lever itself already, top picture, (huge thank you to m1noel), I just need the rest of the mounting body, cover, etc. I already have this; I need the rest of this, including the black rubber boot;

1) Do you have a shop manual or a Haynes manual for your car? If not, GET ONE! 2) Searching prior to posting a query, some/most of the time answers the question. 3) Obviously a problem in your brake booster. Gut reaction says it’s the Reaction Disk. Search this forum for this word "Reaction disk" Hope that helps, Paul

If it were installed backwards the pedal would be difficult to push down, like pinching the hose, and if it was sealing correctly, would have no vacuum help a tall.

The intake ports were not race ported, though I guess the opening may appear large. A full race port would be larger, all the way to the seat! The entrance was port matched to a particular intake manifold. Floor of the port entrance was just skimmed, the majority of the port match was on the roof, effectively creating a larger C/L port radius from the port entrance to the valve seat. This port matching only extends in approx. 1 1/4" inches into the port. The rest of the port diameter is stock. Valve guide boss was then blended, then spent a good deal of time around the transition from the valve seat to port itself, blending the transition from the 5 angle seat geometry to the port walls. The only polished/smooth region of the port is at the port entrance where the airflow is dry. In the wet flow region of the port, I purposely left as much raw casting as I could, though where I did carve I left the surface less than polished with a fine sanding-wrap finish, as can be seen around the guide bosses in the pics.

Yes, the 280-ZX with the P79 P90/a heads, NOT the 280-ZX that came with the N-47 head!

OSU? This radiator does not have any mounting tabs. For my V-8 car I used a lower strap attached to the bottom of the lower frame rail just as in the JTR manual. I used fuel hose on the strap to cushion the radiator. As can be seen in the pictures, I built “Z” brackets that capture the sides of the radiator, sandwiching it to the core support. Again I used fuel hose to cushion the radiator between the core support and the Z bracket. In this manner the radiator is allowed to “float”. I do not recommend solid mounting any radiator to the core support of he Z car, especially if the suspension is modified for performance handling. I also used the same radiator, just a little bit shorter in our Race car. Mounting was floating style, though bit nicer this time around.

I have one left, brand new in the box Ron Davis Racing radiator, been using them for the V-8 Z car. 3” thick core, all aluminum construction, Chevy in-out; $250 I am relatively local to you, out in Sandy. You can come out to pick it up and see how it fits in a 240 and/or 280 body if you like, or I can meet you in Sandy, East Gresham, Troutdale for delivery This fits the 74 ½-’78 260-280-Z PERFECT. Here is the same exact radiator as used in my 280-Z; Will also fit the ’70-74 240-260 car, though the radiator will hang down below the core support a couple inches.

Great idea, thanks Shawn. Yes, time to let this die as the question, "which power-plant", had been answered. Started an new “discussion thread” for this LSx Z-32 project here; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144469

Yes, will be using one!

The bell-housing itself would only be a clearance issue if I were to pursue moving the engine back further. Right now it is the thick portion on the top and very front of the trans case that bell housing bolts to, (circled in Blue below), that is the clearance issue. Will be using a hammer for that. A modified cross-member may be the ticket, thank you.

Back to real time updates. Sold the VH45DE, taking it down to be crated and shipped today. Also sold the T-56 for Gen I-II SBC. Purchased a Gen III-IV T-56 w/hydraulics, flywheel and LS6 clutch! Purchased a set of new crate motor take-out LS6 yellow valve springs, lifters, pushrods. Still on the look out for the 2000 “Y” body, (Vette) stock cam GM Pt# 12560968 Next on the agenda; 1) Nail down the exact approach to getting the rack & pinion lowered 1”. 2) Nail down the final plan for the oil pan, (the AutoKraft pan is looking REAL good right now!) 3) Once the trans arrives, build the engine and trans mounts. 4) Clean up the LM7, paint block, remove the heads, tear down the heads and wave the Rusch Motorsports magic wand over them, reassemble and install back on the LM7. Sell the Supercharged SBC 350 project, the VG30DE and 5 speed from the Z-32 and few other trinket items in the shop, then its time to graduate from the mock up mule to the LSx recipient.

Another mock up test... Dropped the cross member ¾” simulating an engine drop of ¾” lower than the previous mock up! WOOHOO!!! Now we have hood clearance! Now to find a way to get the rack exactly 1” lower in the car without negatively affecting the front suspension geometry too much. Regardless, this is 100% GO! Started the official build thread here; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143967 Here are some pics of today’s mock up. The motor mounts and X-member mount hole alignment; Intake-Firewall clearance; Heater outlets into passenger cylinder head; TB-hood clearance; Trans mount alignment; Underside of engine with pan removed;

Did some more Head scratching and fine tuning of the mock up. Unlike the S-30 where there is practically 2 and half acres of open space to just willy nilly drop an engine into without fear of clearance issues, the Z-32 is a confined space with very limited options! So I spent some time playing with different fore-aft positions with the LS1 and T-56 and feel pretty comfortable with my final engine resting place. "Points of interest" that need addressing; (calling those issues "obstacles" just sounds so negative…) 1) Rack and pinion. Lower the rack ½”-1”. Will be looking into the least compromising way to accomplish this. a) Dropping the entire x-member with a spacer between the X-member and frame rail is the easiest, so long as it doesn’t compromise suspension geometry to much. b) Lower rack in the cross member, only if that doesn’t induce too much bump steer, which I have a feeling it will if I don’t also drop the inboard LCA pickup points. Might have to contact Tube80Z with the plotted out Z-32 front suspension for his opinion of the stock geometry and what the feels are options in terms of getting the rack 1/2"-1" lower without compromising to much. 2) Trans tunnel entrance/Firewall. Lightly modify the trans tunnel entrance at the firewall to clear the top crest of the bell-housing using a 1-2 lbs mass at high velocity, may take several applications, (i.e. the BFH!) Also grind down the rib of the bell-housing if one exist on the T-56 I will be using. 3) Trans tunnel. Lightly modify the trans tunnel with a BFH at the body seam where it goes from the slope from the firewall to the horizontal plane, to clear the bell-housing to trans bolt-pad on the top of the trans, circled in Blue. There is approx ½” clearance between the trans tunnel and the bottom of the cars climate control duct work at this location. Pic below, Green is duct work, Magenta is trans tunnel, Red is seam that needs BFH modification from under the car. 4) TB-hood clearance. “Might” have to notch the stiffener in the hood to gain clearance for the Throttle body. 5) Heater lines. They exit the car through the firewall right at the passenger cylinder head which will require some creative plumbing to make that work without having to open up the dash and relocate the firewall penetrations for the heater supply and return plumbing. I figure this project is one of those “points of interest” that can be dealt with later and shouldn’t dictate the engines placement as much as the other interference “points of interest” do. 6) Oil Pan. Looks like the uber nice AUTOKRAFT oil pan will essentially be a bolt in. The sump is exactly 9” from the rear to the front of the sump, clearing the rack by approx 1" fore and aft. Will have to notch the pan to clear the top of the rack. Might talk to the nice gents at AUTOKRAFT and see if they will do that in-house, (dedicated Z-32 LSx oil pan?!?!?) The rack mount tabs look like they can easily be modified to clear the pan kickouts. Courtesy of; www.autokraft.org/products 7) Trans. In this position, the GTO T-56 with its shifter location puts the shifter EXACTLY 3/8” forward of the stock Z-32 location To use the GTO T-56 you “might” have to remove some material from the top of the trans tunnel to clear the plastic housing for this shifter, but I am pretty sure there is enough room under the Z-32 console for such. I still may use the Caddy CTS-V T-56 as its shifter design and operation is the same as the OE Z-32, would just require adapting the stock shifter to the T-56 shift arm. GTO shifter extends shift lever 3 3/8” rearward from the F-bod T-56. A HUGE thank you goes out to m1noel for this GTO shifter. Area of the trans tunnel that “might” need to be modified/cut to clear the GTO shifter apparatus. Here is the TB to core support distance; For those interested in a possible front sump pan with the engine trans in this position, here is the measurement from the forward most portion of the rack to the front cover/block mating surface. The cross member is in-front of the rack so it will need to be extensively modified for any sort of front sump oil pan;

This post is the covers the initial “best fit” scenario to see how well the LSx and T-56 fit with the shortest possible oil pan over the rack with no mods to the car itself. Oil pan was removed, T-56 bolted up! Short version is, the LSx will NOT fit in an unmolested Z-32 engine bay. Even with the most extensively modified shortened oil pan, some form of modification will HAVE to be done to the car, whether it be cutting the firewall/trans tunnel entrance, relocate the rack and pinion, and or modify the hood to clear the throttle body. Long version. Took the ’01 Vette LS1 short block, removed the oil pan and bolted on a pair of wooden strips to the pan rail to simulate the absolute shortest oil pan, (included the distance that should be between the pan and the rack). The OE LSx Windage tray is very close to the rotating crankshaft. The lowest point of that windage tray is 1.25” below the pan rail. I figure the oil pan should be no closer than ¼” to the windage tray. With the cast oil pan being approx 1/8” - 3/16” thick, add a 1/2” oil pan to rack clearance, (between 2 1/8”-2 3/16”), I cut a couple of boards at 2.25” and bolted them to the pan rail so that the engine could sit on the rack simulating the lowest possible engine position as if it were bolted in the car. This puts the crank windage tray 5/8"-3/4" inch above the rack, allowing approx 1/2" oil pan-to-rack clearance with an oil pan modded as short as possible in the region of the rack. Then I bolted up the T-56 trans and stabbed the engine/trans in the mock up mule. In an attempt to replicate the OE crankshaft position, engine tilt, etc I measured my Z-32 DD. Crankshaft centerline is approx 6.125” above the top of the stock sway bar, engine tilt as measured across the face of the crank damper, is 1.5-2 degrees tilted rear down in relation to the top of the frame rails. I realize those figures do not have to be replicated exactly, but it does offer some point of reference. With the engine sitting in this low as possible position, engine as far back as it will sit with 2.5 degree engine tilt, crankshaft centerline is approx 3/8” higher than OE. Trans is wedged up tight against the top of the tunnel, (bellhousing to trans mating surface is what contacts the top of the tunnel). With the hood closed, the forward portion of the padding on the underside of the hood is between 0" and 1/8” clearance to the throttle body! Bellhousing mating surface is +/- 1” or so fore and aft of where the VG30DE trans-engine mating surface resides. In summation, trans is wedged tight to the top of the trans tunnel, engine/trans is as far back as it will physically sit and the throttle body is in contact with the padding under the hood! Moving the engine forward offers no relief to the throttle body hood issue and only exaggerates the very short distance left between the throttle body and the radiator core support to get a 90 degree air inlet elbow, even with the Radiator mounted in front of the core support. All in all, the LSx Z-32 will require some modification to the car itself. I still have quite a bit of head scratching to do, all kinds of ideas running through my mind, goal is still to get the LSx in the Z-32 without having to cut the firewall. Ideally I want to come up with a solution that can be duplicated as easily as possible by others without having to gut the interior to hack up the firewall compromising climate control and/or other factory Z-32 systems! Couple ideas revolve around altering the rack location, the trick will be doing so without adversely affecting the steering geometry. Dropping the rack down approx 1” will be a huge help. Just opening up the trans tunnel entrance at the firewall allowing the engine to move back approx 2-3” and dropping the rack approx 7.5-1” would alleviate essentially all physical installation conflicts, but again, want to avoid cutting the firewall. Here are some pics; Frontal shot; Shot of the bellhousing; Lack of hood clearance. Hood is NOT in the first latch! Windage tray to rack clearance. Rack is outlined in Green, windage tray is outlined in Magenta.

LSx Z-32 fever has set in. A few others are also in the midst of doing such a conversion. I’m sure we’ll be watching each other for ideas and tips as we trudge through the process. This thread is to be the think tank for this conversion, a spin off from this thread which answered the question of which power-plant will motivate; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/73951-lsx-powered-z-32-go/ For the most part, these first few posts will be cut and pastes from that thread. This thread is the formal build; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143967 For the mock up phase I have been using a Z-32 parts car dubbed the Mock Up Mule. Also been using a 2000 Vette LS1 short block and a complete 5.3 LM7. The 5.3 will be the “short term” power plant, long term goal is to build the single plane V-8 we have been discussing here, though using the LSx as the foundation; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139545 Here are some shots of the car receiving the LSx;

Nah... not punishent. You'll know when its punishment. For the record, we like the fun, ribbing, etc, but when it becomes page after page of ridiculous BS posts that serve NO purpose, not even humor, that is taking it too far. BLANK is a neutral effort to get the point across without resorting to punishment, that you guys were taking it toooooo far.

This may help. All were found in the Z-32 sub forum This thread has lots of pics Z-32 LSx mock up, oil pan fitment, and trans –tunnel fitment issues. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142025 Another running LS1 Z-32; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100505 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97625 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95916 Discussion of LSx Z-32; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107749

Shifter bushings. IF the later style, those bushings across the Nissan parts counter are under $10 and replaceable from inside the car. Do you know if your car has the early monkey motion shifter or the later version? If you don't know the difference, remove the center console, the rubber shift boot, and take a picture of the shifter as it attaches to the trans and post it up, we will be bale to let you know. This thread should also be of help with video, links to the bushings and prices; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133265

Just now received my “How to Swap GM LS-Series Engines into almost anything” book, just flipped the pages and on the surface looks like a great addition to any Hybriders library. Table of contents; Courtesy of SA design I think I now have have pretty much all of the dedicated Gen III/IV “engine” books available, with the exception of a couple books for the Vette that also cover some LSx engine info. The “How To Rebuild GM LS Series engines” book is a great source of tech info and components specs as well as the “Chevy LS1/LS6 Performance” book. The “Build High Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8’s” has the potential to be incredible, but with SOOOOO many typos, contradictions, lack of proof-reading before publishing, you can NOT trust it for part numbers or specifications unless you have confirmed that info from another source and this the 2nd edition, 4 years after the first which "should" have most of those proof reading errors corrected! (Just a couple examples; Page 25, figure at bottom of page, LQ4 an LQ9, both 6.0L, but one is quoted at 364 CID, the other at 377 CID! Not really a big deal, but this sort of inaccuracy is rampant throughout. Upper right hand corner of page 45, LS6 and LQ4 valve springs with same part number, yet colors are correctly identified. For the record, they are NOT the same part number. I have not read this book thoroughly yet, just skimmed through it and found NUMEROUS other examples of that same inaccurate spec and part number callout which, if this is the only book one has and is trusting for accurate info?... Over all, the book is good, though before you use are take any of the specific specs as accurate, verify them with another source first. ) Current LSx library;

Picked up another engine? COOL! What vehicle did that come from with the Truck/SUV oil pan.

Nevermind the all the racket from underneath and the horrendous vibration and some depletion of power as it was wrapping up, if its running, keep driving!...

When I saw that instruction sheet, I want sure if I should include it or not. For the most part, the torque specs at the bottom are what you need. Actual cam timing will be determined by what the engine wants based on where you want the power to happen in the rev range. The 17-19 N/M converts to 12.5-14 Ft/Lbs. That is the torque value for the Allen head bolts around the perimeter.

... In 21 years the difference will be, that rebelliousness will become more "constructive" from the wisdom of those additional years... Happy Birthday and be safe.