280zex

Probibly why the system failed. Looks like this is what I'm after, however I would need to make the rotory vane myself then... http://cherryswitches.com/product/digital-vane-switch-vn1015/

this is my basic circuit design. this is how I first wired things up, and zapped the hell outa me!!

your right! I goofed on my math, oops. I'm not sure why my LS1 coil over heated then?? Right now I'm on the hunt for the most compact cop coil. I have found some pen styles that might work. Looks like its time to go back to the junk yard and have a look around again.

yes the msd 7 box is nice, the price is not. My system is a dual fire 6 coil cop. so each cylinder has a coil, but they fire on intake and exhaust. This is why I need the motorcycle coils. I dont have much saturation time. I have already tried with LS1 cop coil and it just didnt do the job. The 1100 ninja coil worked like a charm!!

So I have been surfing the web for standalone COP ignition systems. There are few and very expensive units available. I do not run megasquirt, nor am I going to buy one just to run my ignition. I have decided to build my own out of existing Datsun ignition components and motorcycle COP coils. Why motorcycle coils??? My system will be a waisted spark COP / hall effect triggered unit. In a cop / waisted spark configuration there is 2 coils firing at the same time. So in effect when my engine is spinning at 6k rpm, my coils will be firing at 12krpm, I.E. 2 sparks per 1rpm. Automotive COP coils cant do this, however motorcycle COP coils can!! There is new types of COP coils on the market now, they are "smart". You can identify them easy, they usualy have 3 wires, some have 4. They have built in IGBT semi-conductors. IF you take an original Datsun 280z ignition pick-up unit and wire that to a "smart" cop coil you can get one hell of a ZAP!! TRUST ME zap zap zap!! I got nailed but good What about spark advance and retard?? My modified dizzy will be "locked" so no mechanical/vac movement. I plan on using a 555pic flyback board to delay the hall trigger event. Instead of using the installed variable resistance "knob" I will be using a 3 bar map unit and converting its variable output voltage signal into a variable resistance signal. What this does is this: my dizzy is locked at my maximum total advance, 38 deg btdc. When I then start my engine the vac signal from the map goes to the 555 board. Now depending on the map signal VIA the 555 board is where I get a trigger signal delay for my coils. Lots of vacuum = no signal delay = initial locked dizzy settings set at 38 deg btdc, NO vacuum = signal delay via 555 = LESS total ignition, or elecronic retard!! So far I have been working with some people on an electronics forum. I have been designing my circuit boards and doing the math. They in turn are giving me the yes/no answers I need. That being said, I am currently learning on how to etch PCB board and trying to figure out how to package the electronics. I have to do this correctly due to EMI kick back from the coils.

as soon as I get that 240sx trans swap done we should grap devils30 ad go on a drive!!

Hey I run 225/50/15's on all 4 of my wheels and its really grippy, except when I'm in boost I only rub when the passenger weighs 200lbs+ doh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't know yet. Sense I have assembled my blow thru L28 I have had a chain effect of improper/incorrect drive train components , then breakage. This is directly due to me underestimating the power out-put potential of my current setup. T3/To4e-60 trim @25lbs max blown thru a Holley carbed, bored and stroked L28.

I love some of the descriptions of possible symptoms I have heard over the years. Honestly I wish I had a video camera for some. I actualy had a customer come to my shop in Sacramento in the 90's, stating that we gave him a bad engine. It had over heated so dude decided to "add" some water via the oil fill in the valve cover. Seriously!! I had to excuse myself to the back of the shop whilst trying to not piss my pants from laughing so hard.

My Z has eaten 3 so far. I got an email from them stating that they will not warrenty another one, so I upgraded to a pressure plate rated for 500 torq. I'm waiting for another transmission (again) right now. I will post up how things work out...

um DROOL!! sorry to thread jack...

ok here is the winner, even matches my tach too http://autoplicity.com/products/436875-auto_meter_5189_pro_comp_electric_in_dash_speedometer.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=436875NOFITMENT&utm_campaign=GSNOFITMENT&adtype=pla&kw=&utm_term=&adpos=1o2&network=g&gclid=CPvTgpqOhbcCFaF7QgodPGUAjw

OH YA BOY!! I like!! http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Auto-Meter-201013-Cobra-Electric-Speedometer-4-Inch-Diameter,66358.html?utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=CSEGoogle&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&CAWELAID=1667657560&catargetid=1784208710&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CM36uqyIhbcCFQ9dQgodmjUAyQ

The company does have custom options. I also seen that you have choices on the needles, colors, lighting.......however I didn't see that they offer a 4 inch speedo, bummer...

Ya I'm not really liking the speed hut guages.. I do like the look of these http://www.classicinstruments.com/gaugeselector.aspx?ProductCode=VS01BBLF&SeriesCode=VS However I'm thinking they are going to cost some $$$$

Ok so I'm in the middle of getting the 240sx transmission swap done. I am now looking at electronic speedometers that will fit in the stock 280z dash. Who is using what? what do you like/dislike about it? I'm leaning towards the autometer pro-comp series. I already have the oil/temp/gas cluster installed. they have a silver back ground with orange needle and black numbers. However my tach has a black face/orange needle and white numbers so I am thinking about the same for my speedo. I'm open to suggestions, thanks!!

Exactly and this is why I had to go talk with the machinist. This mod is the point of no return, unless you have another transmission. I had the machinist read the web page that has all the info and pictures. "its not a problem, we just need to know that you can't change things back after this mod is done." is what dude is telling me. Yes I know what's going on. Yes I understand the information on this web page I had you read. IF you would let me use your lathe I could do the mods required. THAT really caught the machinist off guard!! So the guy called me on it and really started asking me about the process, and the measurements. I used his mics and calipers, took some measurements, crunched the numbers, and explained how I needed the "cuts" done. After that, everybody was satisfied and the work I needed was done. Now the parts are at the trans shop, and they are going thru the gearbox replacing all the bearings and any syncros that may be bad. The cost for the machine work was 100$ I told the guys that there might be others around the local area that would need the same thing done. They declined. They don't really do a lot of work on import cars, nor do they want to. Funny thing is that I get most of my small parts from them!!

Thats just the thing, I don't realy know the shops there and I'm not just willing to ship off a part for this type of work (unless its a HBZ person). I would have thought there is a shop in my neck of the woods that can do what I need. It would be nice if there is more HBZ shops around here. There is ONE, and they do nice work. However the owner was not aware of the 240sx swap, nor was he willing to help (didnt think it would work, even after seeing the HBZ info). This type of work is not complicated, nor does it warrent a shop to charge 500$. I mean hey charge what you want, but I don't think people are going to do business with you charging gold plating prices for regular work!! Looks like I need to make friends with somebody (local) that has a lathe!!

Ok so I had a bit of luck. I did find a shop that the machinest said he can handle the job, but I gota go talk with him and make sure we are on the same page as far as the modifications go. If he can do the job I will let ya'all know the shop and the price, for those in the Seattle area looking at doing the 240sx trans swap..

Buds is unable to handle the job, more like unwilling. MOST of the shops I called will not do automotive machining, "we don't have insurance for that." BS!!!!

Trying to do the 240sx 5 speed swap into a 1976 280z. Running into problems getting the bell housing machined. Nothings easy!!

Ok so the nightmare continues. I'm having a hell of a hard time finding a machine shop around the Seattle area that can handle the job of mod'ing the L28 bell housing to except the 240sx gear box. Most shops here will not even talk to me when I mention car parts machining. The bell housing is at a custom hot rod shop (last ditch effort) right now and I'm waiting to see if they can do what I need (probibly not). The 240sx box is being checked out at a local trans shop. The guys there think that its in good shape, but I wanted an overhaul anyways. If the hot rod shop cant do the job I need XNKE has offered his help (thanks dude). I realy can't believe that none of the shops around here, that I talked to, can do the job. I mean if I had access to a lathe I could do it!! AAAAARRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!

hotmail is now outlook dot com

So I'm in the middle of the 240sx to 280z transmission swap and I hit a bump. None of the machine shops I called will work on automotive parts. I did call a high end shop I know that works on super cars and they would do the bell housing maching for 500$!! DUDE WTF?? So if any HBZ people in the greater Seattle area knows of a shop that can help me out, please let me know!!

I had several different transmissions lined up. Unfortunately most were junk. Seattlejester found a 240sx unit for me tho and I picked it up for 225$. I dont realy know how manual transmissions work, but I can do the swap with little issues (thanks to HBZ). I'm realy curious as to what my broken trans looks like internaly. I will be taking pictures for sure!!