BobbyZ

If you arent at WOT I dont think you care about the turbulence as much...

Wow, I wonder if anyone has ever tried to do a DIY setup like Tony D is talking about. I know that the new 335i has a setup similair to that, really cool design.

Or you can learn the way i did... Crashing your way down the mountain at full speed for an entire day because your friends wont wait for you. I had a few crashes that day where i would land hundreds of feet from where the rolling started with my gloves and hat strewn across the mountain. That was a good day. If you find yourself riding your edge a lot that is fine. Just try to practice transitioning from one edge to the other, eventually this will start to feel more natural and before you know it you will have the confidence required to start spending more time going straight down.

I dont see how this it going to make it easier to take advantage of resonance. The main benefit that I see in this design is the reduction in turbulence over the entire range of throttle positions. However, once a normal TB has gone to full throttle I dont see there being a huge amoung of turbulence due to the traditional throttle plate. It is an interesting design though and I would love to be proven wrong. I would like to know more about the design and what its benefit is over normal throttle bodies.

I've never heard of using JB weld to fill small holes but it seems like it would work fine. Could this cause problems down the road? There are a few things I am hoping to fix on the body of my 280 and JB weld would be so easy, seems like it would be miles better than bondo.

Beautiful machine work. Cant wait to see some more updates.

This makes me feel sick. Keep us updated if he gets any news on the location of the car.

That is a work of art. I have never seen an intake like that before. I like it.

I think stepper motors are definately the best way to go. They can be easily controlled and sent to any position. I think the controls will be made much easier with the stepper motor.

None of us think that we are reinventing something that has never been done before. I think it would be fun to design and build a variable intake system on an L28, not because it is the most cost effective way to make power but because it has not been done before (on this engine) and it presents some fun design challenges. All of the ideas that have been brought to the table here are ideas from existing technologies, we all know that. We just want to adapt them to our own little engines. Does 1fastz think he is inventing the DOHC head???

I didnt think of scaling back the design to use some of the later harmonics for the lower RPM's. I like the idea of doing that but maybe using a valving system that allows you to switch from one harmonic to the next without changing the length of the runner too quickly. I dont see this as being a practical or cheap way of making more power from an L28 but it sure is fun to talk about. I think this would be a very fun design project if I can ever find the time.

Woohoo! Glad it worked.

Hmmmm.... Like a hose clamp lol

If you put a hose clamp around the area where it is pinching it might keep it from collapsing all the way. Wouldn't be very pretty but i bet it would work.

group buy??? lol

I love those intercoolers!

I realized something else too. In order to tune the runner length across the rev band the runner has to cover a huge range of lengths. Using the calculation above (which is close to most of the calculators I found online), if you want the runners to have a range from around 2000RPM to 6000RPM, you would need the runners to move from 42" to 14". I cant for the life of me think of an easy way to do that, you cant just use telescoping runners.

lol

The car will accelerate fastest at its peak torque to the wheels. Lets say the peak torque at the crankshaft is 200ftlbs at 3000RPM. Does that mean you want the engine to stay around 3000RPM? The engine may be making its peak torque but you are not using the other thing you have going for you. Torque multiplication! Putting 200ftlbs through the transmission at a ratio of 2:1 means you are actually getting 400ftlbs out to the driveshaft. Lets say that shifting down to second reduces the engine torque to 150 ftlbs but the gear ratio is now 3:1. The output torque at the driveshaft is now 150*3 = 450ftlbs. We have increased the output torque using the torque multiplication of the transmission.

No I am saying: (Length) = 84000 / (RPM)

What about the length required for lower RPM's. The point of this is that the runner length will be perfectly tuned all across the rev band. But for lower RPM's the runner length gets to be ridiculous. Using one calculation I found, at 1000RPM's you want the runner to be 7 feet long.????? I used the calculation N*L=84000 N=RPM L=Length (inches) Am i missing something here? (I sure hope so) I guess you could come up with some kind of runner that wraps around itself (think like a trombone...) but then the tuning gets to be a bit more complicated because the runners are no longer straight.

Would the actual benefits be noticeable if someone were to make telescoping runners. This is the exact kind of project I have been looking for, electronics are kind of a hobby for me and I think this has some fun design challenges. It would suck though if you spent a few hundred dollars and hundreds of hours designing and building a variable length runner system that had less power than a simple log style manifold... lol I think this would be very doable with my current plan of action for the car. I am going to megasquirt the stock L28, I could easily use Megasquirt to control this kind of system. Maybe not easily, but thats what makes it fun. I guess either way I should probably make my car run first...

the s12 guy getting banned was more entertaining

I think it is clutch too, but if you are under there anyways I would try and check the transmission fluid. My 93 ranger had the transmission go out because of a tranny leak. During my search for a new transmission I learned that this transmission has a well documented problem with losing its transmission fluid and then going out at around 120,000 miles. Just something to check while you are under there.

Post some pictures when you get them on the car... Its always fun to see new wheels.