Kurbycar32

Is this the same composites place? XclusiveKoncepts..

I second this. That tar in there is also one of the sources of "old car smell". Since you already have it exposed yank that stuff and "repaint" the floors with a POR15 type coating. You may actually find more rust under the tar so its a good idea to check the whole area.

Possibly irrelevant: Dont buy paint from California. In most counties all solvent based paint has been banned and as a result we are forced to use water based paints. They dont dry as evenly as regular solvent based paint (resulting in orange peel), require special guns, dryers, and modifying your paint technique. Actual paint shops have of course adapted but for the hobbyist who paints once in a while its quite a bit to overcome.

Current State: Custom fiberglass door panels by pete. $200 ebay seats upholstered to look awesome. Rear deck lifted with 3/4" MDF with cutouts for a pair of 6x9's. Spare tire area split in half to hold an sealed 8" sub enclosure on one side an a toolbox/amp mount on the other. Sourced a brand new center console from courtesy Nissan. Dash cap and steering wheel from MSA. Buried under everything is a choke cable mount to prevent breaking my new console.

I asked a similar question regarding putting a round port header on my square port N42 head. The consensus was that you can go the other way, mounting a square port header on a round port head, but not the other way around. You need to sell or trade your round port header and get a square one, on the plus side the N42 seems to be the most desirable head choice.

I apologize for the thread hijack, but what size bolts are used for mounting the AC bracket to block?

you should be able to find them at any auto parts store, even walmart has a few here where i live. Just pull one out and bring it into the store for matching. Like i said, you probably have a more serious problem like a bad ground or a messed up combination switch (the combination switches get eaten on these cars) but since you have never changed these out it couldn't hurt and is one less variable moving forward. If you aren't skilled enough in electrical you might consider sending your combination switch in for service. A guy on the classic z car forums does it (Zs-ondabrain) as well as some guy on ebay and I'm sure a bunch of other people.

You should have 2 of these on the upper left of the drivers side foot area. This is the thing that actually makes the blinkers blink, your car has one for turn signals and another for hazards. Since they are inexpensive and fail often you should start with new ones. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Tridon-Turn-Signal-Flasher/_/N-9cjef?itemIdentifier=69839_0_0_

I suspect a problem in your combination switch and would attempt repair in this order: 1. Replace both of your thermal flashers. mine were $1.99 at oriely auto 2. After that doesnt work you should remove the combination switch from your steering column and "refurbish" it. basically clean everything and ensure all electrical contacts are mating correctly. Bend connections back together, remove corrosion, clean and lubricate joints. i did this on my 260z and it fixed a bunch of problems

found just the rubbers at Z car source: Product #: 32400910 http://www.zcarsource.com/door-upper-molding-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new_8_56661_197483.html They also have totally refinished chrome trim pieces they sell on an exchange basis

i called up black dragon and found that part 59-800 DOOR MOLDING-OUTER-LH W/SEAL for my 260z is out of stock. They claimed that "they lost their vendor" and may or may not be able to offer the part again..

You should media blast, do metal work, then spot blast if necessary. Doing metal work on a rusty surface is never fun. I have been using "Rust Bullet" for a few years and its essentially the same as POR15 so I can comment on that First its a fantastic product and lots of car guys swear by it. it can be applied via brush or thinned down and sprayed out of a gun like regular paint. My experience has been with brush on applications, it goes on thick and has a texture that's divited like a golf ball. Its designed to be applied directly to rust and then painted over, though I try and clean any visible rust before using it. Hypothetically if i had an empty shell on a rotisserie i would apply POR15 or rust bullet to the entire undercarriage and interior after media blasting then paint then apply undercoating. I would not coat any of the body, I believe its texture might interfere with the quality of the paint job. Epoxy primer would be more appropriate for the body, paint shops have experience with it and its been done thousands of times before. The worst part of the whole process is that you need to be really careful not to fill any of your screw holes with POR or you will need to re-tap every hole you fill. You do not want to weld over it just as if you were dealing with a painted surface, however you can remove the coating, weld, and then brush on touch up material without any setup or special process. Powder coating is awesome because the process actually bonds material to the metal and goes on really smooth. Its fantastic and affordable for small parts because they fit inside an oven, baking to around 400 degrees is a required part of the process . When doing a large project like a whole undercarriage the baking part gets difficult and therefore cost prohibitive. I haven't seen a shop able to spray an entire chassis in an oven so I'm skeptical about this being affordable.

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Thanks Pete! Mine came out great, I hope you are feeling better

Status update?

Generally you dont increase the idle speed to make a car run better. Your car should idle nicely between 700-800 RPM and that's actually a smog requirement in California, your repair manual will have the exact RPM. Start with the basics like looking for vacuum leaks, check timing, make sure your plugs are clean and your wires are in good shape.

Oscar, bumper pics! My rear bumper flew off of the car while it was parked. Bumper too long plus crappy mounting and it kinda sprung itself off. Luckily it was parked in the garage

I did this, hated it and put regular bulbs back in. Here's the part that nobody talks about: LED lighting only emits a very narrow color spectrum which creates 2 problems: 1. LED lights are only one color and light filters dont work on them. For example lets say you just buy a bunch of white LED's to use on your green filtered gauges blue filtered high beam indicator and yellow blinker indicators, everything will be white even with the plastic lenses that are supposed to change the color. I countered this by buying green illumination LED's, blue for the high beam indicators, red for emergency, yellow and orange for the blinkers (tried both). I got everything to be the right color but even with the brightest LED's I find the gauges weren't as bright as regular bulbs which brought me to the second problem: LED light doesn't reflect well and all of the gauges are lit with reflection. Brighter LED's only made a tiny difference because only a small amount of light would reflect off of the white painted walls of the inside of the gauges. If these were backlit gauges (meaning the light came thru the back of the gauge face and not around to the front) i think LED's would be great. I have an extra clock lying around that i am experimenting with lighting using an electro illumination panel (think timex indiglo). Its the right color and i think it would be bright enough but those panels are ignited with 120v AC so i would need to install a circuit to power the unit.

Your getting 16-17 mpg which seems a bit low (or even normal depending on the car) but not "OMG what happened". What was your average fuel economy before? Start with the basics like tire pressure, air filter, spark plugs. If those check out inspect the fuel lines attached to the tank, they seem to get neglected and mine actually leaked a bit. Beyond those simple things you start looking at the fuel injection system

Bumper pics!

U-haul will want to know the vehicle doing the towing and the vehicle being towed. I had to haul a wrecked cavalier with my old ranger but U-haul wouldn't clear it. I went to another U-haul and told them i was going to tow a 800 pound sand rail with the ranger and they let it slide. The 4 runner could absolutely haul a Z around but its quite possible U-haul gives you a hard time and you should be prepared for it. Im located in Manteca and rock a 3/4 ton Ram diesel that would probably get 18 mpg hauling such a light load. PM me if you want to trade services for performance parts

Oscar, any update and pictures of the new bumpers?

No its not paranoia but i would love if the site supported HTTPS traffic, even if it had a self signed certificate i would have to install. Why would a rational non-paraniod user care about encrypting traffic to a web forum? The web filters at your work arent capable of reading that encrypted traffic.

I'm down for a window cling like that, but about 1/4 the size. Hoodie would be great too. Have you guys thought about running this thru cafepress? You pretty much upload the graphic and order whatever swag you want with that logo on it.

If they are made out of pyrex (fancy glass) how about using the glue used to mount rear view mirrors on windshields?