veritech-z

You paint them when you've damaged one, and have to use a filler to cover up your body work.....

I'll grant you that...we've still got a few kicking around here in Tampa, I see one every so often. I think there's even a Brickland or two, but I haven't seen one of those in a long while...

http://www.eliseusa.com/rotary.htm Sure doesn't look all that fast in the video though...guess it only needs to go 85 to get the business done...

Well, mine, like most, will probably never be done. On my 1977 280z I've done a stage 3 nut and bolt reduction, taken off the bumpers, modified the original steering wheel and a crappy aftermarket apc wheel to fit an acura tsx steering wheel with empty airbag and datsun logo. I modified some Acura RSX type S side skirts to fit, and also adapted some Acura TL splash guards that almost fit perfectly anyway (I used to work in an Acura parts department, and got the take offs for free). Also i've got some fender mounted first generation rx-7 power mirrors which are currently not getting any power, and may never be. I'm using a Summit 16 gallon plastic fuel cell that is sitting in the big hole i cut that used to be the spare tire well. I've got braided stainless fuel lines all the way up to my su's that are soon getting replaced with a jsk fuel rail and shaved n47 manifold with a stanza throttle body (ported to match) that I hope to run with my megasquirt 1 ver. 2.2 which is built and awaiting install. I did the ebay tokico 1" drop that came with the blue cartridges and i'm super happy with that, and I replaced the sway bar end links and t/c bushings with urethane, and then got lazy/tired of being under it and haven't installed the rest of my energy suspension kit. It now drives like a 10 year old car instead of a 30 year old car. I'm really proud of my wheels (say what you want about three spokes, i've got my hater blockers on and can't see you) which are 17 X 7 front and 17 X8 rear Impul Hoshino Racing RS-III's imported from japan with 205-55-17 front and 255-55-17 rear bridgestone tires off my friend's dad's 911 that didn't cost me a dime. I had to have 1 3/4" adapters made to fit the wheels and buy special "tuner shank lug nuts", but they look really good and don't rub where they are now. I'd love to have them resized so i wouldn't need the spacers, but I've come to the conclusion that I'd be better off buying a new set of wheels. They are drilled for both 4 and 5X114.3 hubs, so they could survive a 5 lug conversion if I ever get around to it. In the works: I have a Garrett T-04 that I am designing a manifold for, an SS autojunk external wastegate, and a Nissan Sunny Pulsar GTI-R intercooler (less than $200 dollars spent total for everything) that was top mount originally, and I'd like to keep it that way. I would like to get an early non-vented hood, and cut the intercooler out of it like a shaker scoop (sans scoop), and then run a duct to the front from underneath it so the air that would normall be used to slow my car down at speed could be re-directed to keep my charge temperature down. Then i would cut lines of 4" louvers into the rest of the hood like the old MSA hood.

Skip the ac, just use one of those cold water circulator shirts the rally drivers wear. And if you are going to use a snorkel, probably just use the snorkel all the time without all the super extendo action. All those cool gadgets like on speed racer just add weight, without too much functionality. And while you're getting sr20dets, how about one from the front engine all wheel drive Sunny Pulsar gti-r? Factory individual throttle bodies, oversize topmount intercooler....really neat engine from a really ugly car... That motor park sounds pretty cool, but I think that combining that many things into one place would be a little much. You would be approaching theme park level employee and maintenance costs at that point I would think. I would invest some money in a rockin liability waiver though. I was looking into trying to acquire a piece of an abandoned airport here in the tampa area to do something like that Drift Land they are driving in the Best Motoring Drift Bible. Tampa Executive Airport had a 5000ft X 50ft runway, but when they widened SR 54, it cut into the amount of area you have to leave after the runway as a safety buffer, and the airport had to close.

Kind of like how they do the triathalon? I think it would be even cooler if you couldn't change the tires or anything, but had to have the car adjust on the fly to the different types of terrains. That would be super. You could just make one long track with elements of each style of racing, and it could happen every so often, like the world cup or the olympics.

thorin oakenshield?

yup, that's the kit i saw at z-docs alright. he said he had it on his sister's car for years until it blew up, and it was actually on a motor that was out of a car when i saw it. if anybody is in the tampa area and wants one of these, give brent a call, he should still have it laying around...

"man, evel, put some air in those tires before you jump the snake river canyon!" "listen here sonny, i was breaking bones jumping over stuff before you were born, i'll tell you when i have enough air in my tires. and stay in school." funny story about evel and me: when i broke my ankle in three places skateboarding, the orthopedic surgeon that i went to said evel had broken his hip in st. pete playing golf, and they were the office that did the repair. had his picture up and everything. true story.

so nobody has solved this problem with some kind of strengthened trans internals yet anywhere in srt-4 land? i've got a friend with a stage 1 on his car, and he likes it. his wheel hop is so bad it actually broke one of his fog light lenses on time. i worked with a guy at ferman acura who had an srt-4, and his dad had a regular neon with an srt-4 swap (he worked next door at ferman chrysler, talk about a sleeper car, the intercooler was flat black and it was on stock wheels). they were buying extra tranny's to keep around for this eventuality. I would say you could probably get one on ebay and have it built for this eventuality for less than the cost of a new one. anyway, as for the solstice/sky possibility: i work in parts at a saturn dealership, and we just got our sky in march. we put the (before installation) $650 gmpp intake kit (which comes with an open element PAPER filter) and the (before installation) $2111 gmpp racing suspension among other things on it to jack up the price. the car was black, and they come with factory 18" wheels with no spare, and enough trunk room to comfortably fit a full size fire extinguisher and nothing else (no exaggeration, the gas tank sits above the differential, so it has to go somewhere). After the popularity tax and all that, it went from msrp $24k, to..............drumroll please.................are you sitting down? If you guessed $36,000 dollars, for a SATURN, you are the big winner on the the price is WHAT?! would you believe it sold? after a month or so. leased actually, but whatever. my impression of the car was this: at the same time on the lot we had an 05 GTO with 12,500 miles and the LS2, 6speed trans and factory lsd going for $26,600. also a covertable C-5, and a coupe c-5, all for less than this 2.4liter no-space mobile. I've got more space in my 77 280z with the fuel cell half sticking out of the hatch than this car does. on the positive: some smaller wheels and this racing suspension would make for a fun car. the new sway bars that came with it were almost double the thickness of the old ones. Oh, i almost forgot, we got a bulletin the same day we recieved our first one that if you try to open or close the hood with the doors ajar it will result in damage to the hood or doors. full open doors, or full closed doors only.

I'm thinking he might have just flared regular exhaust pipe for those with some kind of flaring tool. or you might be able to find a reducer that goes from two extreme sizes, and cut it off just after the flare from one diameter to the next. looks like he just welded a rolled tube on the end and ground it smooth from there...

i need to consolidate my hobbies too...I used to skateboard a lot more than i do now because of the triple fractured ankle and subsequent reconstructive surgery i underwent. I play a little guitar, dabble in the drums, and fool around with my technics 1200s every once in awhile. i find myself playing a lot of video games, from the NES i'm still rocking right next to my PS2 and XBOX. i also have a degree in studio art, so i do some drawing and photography here and there.

that kit i posted came from squire turbo systems. my issue with it aside from water splashing on your toasty hot turbo, into your wastegate, and into your nice filter(which on that car, has nothing blocking it from the rear tire), is the super long delivery and return lines for the oil. unless you use one of those aerochargers that you fill with oil for 20k miles and then drain and refill it... they say you don't need an intercooler, and that you can get more boost from what would otherwise be an undersized turbo because it's so far back in the system it doesn't build up heat as fast as it would near the front. i'm not sure i buy into it, but i did see a late model camaro with one on the street that sounded crazy and looked to be pretty fast. but here in florida? you think texas gets rain, come on down for a swim.

if it's a header, no. the l28 exhaust manifold had like a plenum on it, that ended in a three bolt flange that was easy to make an adapter for. you'd be looking at making a custom manifold to replace the header unless you did one of these:

there is a local z shop here in tampa called z-docs. the guy brent there showed me two different turbo "kits" he had laying around, one looked like a custom job based around the zxt manifold, and the other sounded more like this one you've got that used an adapter in place of the stock manifold downpipe to mount the turbo to the stock system. both were vintage used parts, and when i asked how much, he played the whole "i don't know, make me an offer" bit. since i thought it was really cool he showed me all around the shop, i didn't want to insult him with an offer that was too low. they looked pretty cool though.

1:family truckster 2: detomaso pantera: 3:bmw m1: 4:old caddy. i'd do a more evil color, but you get the idea: 5:this paint job is dope: 6:gs430: 7:i don't believe in suv's, so.... 8.represent the z, that's why we're on the forum, right? this ones not mine, unfortunately...

doesn't that engine only make like 215hp stock? I don't know why they didn't just put a vq in the xterra like they're doing with every other model on the lot these days.

how'd this get in there with that 510 auction? also, nice draw through su turbo kit. i've never seen that one before...must be one of those jaguar 2" jobs, but where is the manifold for the exhaust?...i think that mystery spoiler looks like one from msa for the z

hmmm...the plot thickens...upon closer inspection, the pigtail lead DOES in fact seem to be progressive...we used an analog style meter that had the sweep needle this time, instead of the digital one i used yesterday. when you put the leads from the center to one of the edge contacts, you can turn the sensor to different positions and you can make the needle stop in between full open and full closed, but no matter what you do when you test it at the sensor itself, it just pegs open and closed...

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108665 this was a fun thread that touched on this subject a little bit among other things. there is even a wind tunnel picture on there somewhere of a z with the smoke trails blowing over it...

i don't know how the RB25 is set up, but don't most engines read the coolant temp at the cylinder head? I know the saturns do, and my l28e has a sensor for that in the back of the head. I put my gauge sensor in the thermostat housing which is in the head on the z.

well, for anyone that is interested, nissan part number A22-641 921 from the automatic 90 nissan stanza is an on/off non-potentiometer style of tps. looks like it's back to the drawing board...

the wastegate routing makes me wonder too...i wonder if there is clearance enough to get a wrench on the mounting bolts too...if the flange is that thick, would the shared bolts with the intake manifold have trouble holding them both on evenly?

i was only going to use the stanza sensor because i have a stanza throttle body. i went to the boneyard today to pick up a connector for it, and ended up just taking the whole sensor off of a 90 automatic stanza (it was the only decent looking one there, and it's the one with the plug on the sensor, and the pigtail hanging off the side), so when i get to work tomorrow i'll borrow somebody's multimeter out in the shop and check the resistance to see if it will work. all of the 240sx's out there had already been pretty well stripped out...as a side note, they usually have at least three or four s30 and s130's out there, but today not even one. they did have a turbo 200sx, an early q45, and a rear wheel drive maxima though. didn't have the time, tools, or money on me to do anything with them . I've heard that the 200sx turbo has the 4.11 rear end...

"You meet the nicest people on a honda" oh wait, that was their motorcycle campaign...I'd bet it sounds a fair bit like a honda bike from the period. Sure does look like an MG, doesn't it?