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Everything posted by veritech-z
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hmmm....You can see this one is a supercharged v-8, so maybe? Good looking car over all, but I still hate that spoiler...
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Who daily drives their Z without heater/a.c.
veritech-z replied to goldenchild7801's topic in Fabrication / Welding
The amount of fog you get on your windshield will be higher depending on humidity. My z has no climate control whatsoever, as well as no wipers, and it's strictly a fair weather car. Here in florida that means driving only in late afternoon early evening on days when it isn't raining. Luckily it's NOT my daily driver, because it would be hell in the mornings trying to keep the window free of condensation...You could try using rain-x anti-fog on the inside, I've heard it works reasonably well. -
isn't that eric_bernstein's other car? this is the second "who's car is this?" thread I've seen that turned out to be his...
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never heard of 'em, but check all this out:
veritech-z replied to veritech-z's topic in Non Tech Board
https://www.rhdjapan.com/shop/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=527 This was under the L series engine parts section of this same website... -
Time to un-pimp ze auto! (not what you think)
veritech-z replied to auxilary's topic in Non Tech Board
I heard he once ninja-kicked chuck norris so hard that his goatee fell off, and then this guy was all: "german engineering in ze house, ya?" -
never heard of 'em, but check all this out:
veritech-z replied to veritech-z's topic in Non Tech Board
Sigh...the glamorous life of a Saturn parts counter guy....I have my entire day to just try and find something to do....I need a more fulfilling career...on a more relavent note, that certainly does appear to be an l-series, but i'm not at all familiar with that valve cover. Didn't some of those come wtih l's in them? -
titaniumbmx, if parasitic drag were as bad as all that, supercharging would have been discarded long ago as impractical. I say just rig it up and go do a burnout on everybody's lawn that said you shouldn't do it....
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never heard of 'em, but check all this out:
veritech-z replied to veritech-z's topic in Non Tech Board
Yeah, I was trying to post that picture here along with the s20 head a few pics down to show the difference. -
It's my understanding that angling the wastegate mounting tube so that the exiting exhaust gasses have as smooth a path as possible into it is ideal, but it should work just fine how you have it. It seems to me at least to be a very good design, and I only have nit-picky things that don't appeal to me personally and may or may not matter in the long run. One of these would be the angle that your two collector tubes meet at before the turbo flange could be a little smoother so that the exhaust pulses don't interfere with each other as much. The manifold I was designing for myself would keep these tubes seperate all the way to the flange, since I'm using a T-04 with a split housing in an attempt to promote spool-up. Also since the z fires at 1-5-3-6-2-4, I was going to group 123 and 456, that way each pulse would hit a different side of the turbine wheel with each exhaust pulse...I would have a balance tube between the two final tubes for the wastegate. Not to intrude my design over yours, just kind of thinking out loud...
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overblown...hehe....good one john.
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www.rhdjapan.com go over to the misc. link, and scroll down the the sick z's and tough L engines link. Also have some nice early skylines above that. There are multiple pages above the picture, so you can see more than just that first image that pops up (I didn't notice that at first, thought I'd save anyone else who is this absent minded the trouble). I can't get the picture properties to come up with right click, otherwise I'd just post them here...
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"We could always do stone 'enge..." Anybody ever been to www.emachineshop.com? maybe they could make you some centers for a reasonable amount...
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Which v-8 or bmw v-12 head is like the supra head, if you don't mind my asking?
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On the streets of Tokyo speed needs no translation
veritech-z replied to Trevor's topic in Non Tech Board
If I remember the "turbo interceptor" correctly, I't had what we are to assume to be "the powerplant of the future" that kind of looked like something from tron. I've never seen a glowing 2.2 turbo, at least not one that was glowing blue...and I still say that with $1.5 million dollars, almost anything could have looked better, more high tech, less chop shop than that car did. It really felt like a $20k (being generous) fiero conversion to me when watching the movie.... Everybody asking about the proper way to drift, an entertaining dvd from Best Motoring called "the Drift Bible" is available from www.bestbuy.com that goes through all the different handling setups and the best way to get them to rotate in a corner. Tsuchia the drift king shows you in an S13 to demonstrate understeer prone cars, an S14 for balanced cars, and an MR-2 for oversteer prone cars, and also talks you through different methods and techniques you can use for different situations, and ways to practice. Best Motoring, like Option before it, used the 'sneaker' cam, a small picture in picture of what the driver's feet are doing on the pedals in real time. Pretty cool really. I think i'll put a "g-ball" in my console too, so passengers will be able to tell what the center of gravity is doing at all times... -
How do I remove the oil supply line?
veritech-z replied to 280Z Turbo's topic in Turbo / Supercharger
Guess it doesn't matter much now, but flare nut wrenches are definitely the way to go when working on tube nuts like that. The are like a box end wrench with a notch cut out to pass the tube through, and then they still have a small piece of that extra side on there to grip better than just a regular open end wrench if you've never seen one. Available at most places tools are sold. -
You must know some people that aren't very good at designing turbo systems then. Everyone I know has very manageable intake temps on their intercooled turbo systems. I've looked a bit closer at that setup, and concede that I stand corrected. The 3.8 box does indeed bolt on like a plenum, and funnels air into the intake tube as a postulated.... I'm willing to admit I don't have too much experience with the boost characteristics of roots and screw type superchargers, but I was in a CRX that had a Jackson Racing roots-type blower on it and it had what they advertised as the 12lb pulley upgrade on it. On the autometer boost gauge it would never quite make more than 9psi, and it most definitely didn't come on all at once, but increased with engine rpm. It didn't impress me much... As far as trying to help this guy with his original problem, without pictures of what he is working with, anything beyond the vague-ish advice he got at the beginning of the thread is going to be difficult to give.
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http://i3.tinypic.com/11awbw2.jpg Out of curiosity, what is supposed to bolt to the bottom of that roots style blower if not the lower intake manifold? Some other kind of plenum that funnels the air into that intake tube? That looks like it cam off of a thunderbird super-coupe, and I'm pretty sure they also had their roots blowers mounted in the standard way....I read AND understood what you posted to mean that you do NOT in fact realize what it is you are trying to say about superchargers reaching "full" boost before turbochargers. If the maximum allowable boost is 10psi, and you set your supercharger to make 10psi at idle, you have just set the STARTING psi of your system, which will then increas as a function of pulley ratio until maximum engine rpm is reached in a LINEAR way, making the engine feel like it is just a larger displacement NA motor (that's why these blowers are called positive displacement blowers) unless you then incorporate some kind of wastegate or pop-off valve to vent out the extra boost you don't need. A boost gauge in a supercharged car would give you a better picture of how superchargers make boost, but they do not just make one preset psi and carry that throughout the rpm range. Also, if turbos get so inefficient from exhaust heat, how would you explain intercoolers that are able to get charge temperatures back down to ambient air for air/air, or even lower than ambient in the case of water/air?
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If there is a kit, it sure isn't easy to come by...
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How about diverting it around the engine like goodoldjam suggested, but instead of doing it in front of the tires, do it after into all that empty space behind the wheel. Then you could seal that up and make a tunnel through the door structure like some cars do for the ac vents to get more airflow to the backseat, but instead of that you could dump it out the back somewhere? Or if you had one of those cool body kits like the red Monza Mystery Z we were all commenting on in the non-tech forum you could spit it out the back of the front fenders....
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On the streets of Tokyo speed needs no translation
veritech-z replied to Trevor's topic in Non Tech Board
That was clearly a Chrysler production in Wraith, it totally had the pentastar badge on the front, and screamed out kit car with it's super small wheels and cheap looking suspension. If I were ford, chrysler, whoever, and that thing cost me $1,000,000, I think I'd cry. And as for that big block vette having to cheat to beat that shelby daytona fwd? I don't buy that for a second. Anybody remember "Death Race 2000" with David Carradine and a young Sly Stallone? The video game that spun off of that was the first really big "games are too violent" controversy because you ran over "gremlins" in a "car" (I use those terms loosely, it was the late 70's after all and graphics weren't quite what they are today) in order to get points... -
I wonder how much of a gap between the hood and the cowl you would need to move that much air? It would probably work better with some kind of restricted radiator entry...Also, there isn't too much in the way of space to either side of a standard L series to really do something like that once you take the exhaust into account....would it need to ramp all the way to the top, or would just a smooth transition to vertical down near the bottom do the job, kind of like using a splitter on your air dam, but with a curve where it meets the firewall? I've got some ideas, but I can't host any images from work...
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hey rawdizzae, could you pass me the search function-I mean 1/2" drive ratchet? looks like we're headed to the shed....
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The doors and rear quarter window would break this kit for sure, but I have to say that the 2000gt looks sick from both front and rear. I don't know what car would be better, i'm seeing a lot of e-type in the rear quarter view, at least superficially. I've never liked the Z ferrari, but I think I could get behind a 2000gt replicar.
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I'm really surprised that we haven't seen any rebody kits to make one of these out of something else like with the ferrari body z's. Surely you could get a z to look like that without too much more trouble than a GTO conversion, and I personally would think it would be a cooler setup...plus you'd have more room for turbo than a real 2000gt evidently does. The problem with trying to get an undesirable early 80's toyota celica/supra to look like that is all their Transformers style rooflines, you'd pretty much have to build your own, or do a You Only Live Twice style convertable...
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I'd rock a nerv license plate if I had one...Misato drove a 280zx in that series until it got rolled over by an angel attack.