veritech-z

that shopping cart handle spoiler has got to go...

Thanks for the help z-ya, but seeing as how i'd be buying a new sensor over the counter, I doubt that most parts stores would like me tampering with their sensors right in front of them with the possible intent of not buying it. I work in parts at a saturn dealer, and sold parts at Advance Auto Parts for five years before this, and i know how uptight poeple get when it comes to electrical components. Before anyone asks, none of the saturn tps sensors turn the right direction to work with this throttle body. Surely someone has purchased a new 240sx sensor for use with megasquirt, and knows which one to get?

so how did critique go?

this picture was sort of internet famous for awhile, it's supposedly a GI over in Iraq with one of those wind scorpions (also known as a camel spider, but you can tell it's not a real spider because of the fifth pair of legs) that was several feet long. turns out it's just a trick photo....

hey initial z, as far as pricing goes, determine cost of materials, cost of making the prints (unless this is a print in the first place? you didn't say what media you did it in), and then how much time you have in it, and try to decide how much that amount of your time is worth. As a fellow artist, i have the same problem...

try to find some pics of a 280zxt oil pan. generally you want as straight a shot to the pan as you can get from the bottom of the turbo, and you want it as close to the top of the pan as you can get without interfering with the pan bolts or the mounting flange of the pan so that it's above the level of oil in the pan. this is the inside of the AZC pan, taken from their website. see the plug in the upper right side of the picture? that's where they put the fitting, so you can use that for what it's worth. Seems like a saw a thread where ON3GO used this pan with good results? it's been a little while...

i believe that guy is based out of georgia. the car is black with a set of white rally stripes down the middle? with a viper style hood scoop? it was featured in an old (late 90's) sport compact car if it's the same one i remember seeing...i might have the issue laying around, it had a red fd rx-7 on the cover and said something like "street terror" on it or something...the article said it had an l28 block with a 240z head and tripple mikuni's, with some kind of crazy cam. if it's the same car. also listed his displacement at 2400cc's, so i don't know how accurate the parts list was. http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/toc/0100scc_toc/index.html it's in this issue right here

the problem with that is when you turn the car off, the residual oil in the turbo bearing has to go somewhere. Even beyond that, there isn't really enough pressure to push the oil through the bearing and loop it back up to the valve cover with the engine running. Your stock valve seals aren't designed to stop that amount of oil from going through the guides either, so their lifespan would probably suffer if you started pumping oil right into your valve cover. Plus, if the oil doesn't have an electric pump that continues to run after the car is shut off, it will just sit there and be hot, which is what causes coking of the bearings on turbos (anybody else jump in here if this isn't sounding right). That's the premise behind using a turbo timer as well: allowing the car to idle circulates oil around the engine at low operating temps until it cools off enough to not damage the bearing in your turbo (usually either for a preset time, or until a preset temperature is reached). Skater, before you get too much further with this, you might read up on basic turbo design a little bit, just to familiarize yourself with how it works. If you don't want to modify a pan, you are stuck either getting an L28et pan, or I believe the AZC pan is plumbed for a turbo return (it's just expensive if you are on a budget), but whichever way you go, there really isn't any way around having a drain back to your oil pan. I believe that some of the front wheel drive SR20det motors (like the bluebird for instance) had the return line go into the block just above the pan, but there is a provision for that on the SR20DE blocks. right above the pan on the driver's side, there is a small flat area that goes right to the pan, and this is where you put the fitting. My friend adapted a bluebird turbo setup onto his 98 sentra SE, and it worked really well, spins the tires at the top of fourth gear just from giving it full gas.

Thanks for the input Brad-ManQ45, that's what i was hoping it would be. I was beginning to think nobody cared...just sitting here listening to the crickets chirp...watching tumbleweeds blow by...vultures circling overhead, just waiting for me to give up...seriously though, i appreciate your help. that was the last sensor i needed for my setup, and now that i know that i can move on to trying to fabricate a wiring harness for the whole thing.

have you already submitted that for critique in class?

Sorry for the bum advice savageskaterkid, i stand corrected on the feed line size. I thought I had read in maximum boost or somewhere that 3/8" was a good tube diameter, but if you guys are running 1/4" (-4) and smaller with no problems, then all the better since -4 hose is cheaper by the foot (at least here in tampa) than the other sizes. I haven't gotten my turbo installed yet, and am also in the process of putting together all the ancillary pieces to the system. 1/8th npt taps aren't that hard to come by in the states, you can get them at most hardware stores. i got one from harbor freight as part of a set. Does the feed line need to be flexible on this engine, or could you use say one of those aftermarket brake lines that already has the 1/8" npt fittings on the end that you bend yourself? Hey savageskaterkid, i reread your first post, and it sounded to me like you were going to try to avoid tapping the pan? You don't tap the pan for the feed line because there is no pressure there. You run the return line there so the oil can drain back into the system. That's why you want a larger drain line, to reduce the restriction to flow (unless you have a scavenger pump of some kind, gravity is what is getting the oil back to the pan), and you want to make sure that the drain is above the level of the oil in the pan so it doesn't get backed up, so i've been told.

hey everybody, just a quick question: i've got a throttle body off of a nissan stanza (all the 240sx's that i saw in the boneyard had the throttle wheel on the wrong side to work with the stock linkage, but the fwd stanza worked fine [i also snagged a 90mm q45 throttle body that day]) that i'm using with my megasquirt install, and for reasons that seemed good at the time i no longer have the tps that came on it. Now that i'm almost ready to finish up my megasquirt, i need to get a new throttle position sensor, and evidently the ka24 has a different sensor from standard to automatic (with an extra $20 for the manual sensor for some unknown reason). my question is this: if i get the cheaper automatic sensor, is it going to work?

pipe thread doesn't work like that with the coarse thread and fine thread. pipe thread is tapered so that cranking it down creates a seal at the back end. what i would do is try to find a 1/8th npt adapter to run a -6an line to the turbo inlet, and get the largest drain you can fit. i belive that -6 line is 3/8", and a good return line size would be -8 which is roughly 1/2" in standard size. you can get bulkhead fittings like on a fuel cell that allow you to drill out the pan and and install the adapter to connect to the drain line. you'd probably want to epoxy it though just to be sure it doesn't leak.

isn't there also an anti drainback valve in it? just for the record, my stock 77 280z pump put 45psi to the fuel rail (i have a gauge there) with the engine off...since it never ran with that setup, i don't know if that would have changed once the pressure regulator started to get a vacuum signal. *edit* : i just checked my haynes manual, and it had this to say under fuel damper, removal and refitting: "the purpose of this device is to even out any pulsations in the fuel lines"

any of you fellow floridians familiar with XAT racing's smokey and the bandit front conversion on this s13 hatchback? tampa is rad...note the period correct golden snowflake wheels..

it's cool guy, i'm not mad at you, just wanted you to know you come off a little bitter is all.

i can't recall one positive, helpful post i've ever seen from bjhines...constructive criticism is all well and good but that guy is sippin on some serious hater-aid...sour grape flavor....

i got mine from an abandoned fish farm, and it had a dead o'possum rotting away under it, and a snake living in the passenger seat...but $200 bucks is a steal for a car that just needed some tlc. wish i had an older model that could use some of those parts...i really need a new hatch

I'd love to get rid of my 14" wheel collection, but even if you were interested i think shipping from florida to texas would make them not very cost effective...i've got the western turbine wheels in both the tight and wide spokes, and i've got some momo quasars with no center caps in 15X7 with 195 50 15 toyo tires on them. but you'd need spacers to run those...

how about doing silver front, black rear, with the red pixelated stripe like the current batch of nissan race cars?

I've never been that into the full body conversions, but i hope yours goes well. the only info i've really got for you is that the 4 and 5 lug hubs are both on a 114.3 bolt circle. also, there is a pretty cool thread in the other engines forum about a bmw v-12 ferrari conversion, just run a search for bmw v-12 and it should come up.

how do you keep exhaust from sneaking out of the throttle shaft on the spoolie jobbie? i was planning my manifold around the idea that if you keep the exhaust pulses seperate all the way down to the turbine housing, they would promote a faster spool (as per "maximum boost"). so i was going to run 1-2-3 into one side of the housing, and 4-5-6 into the other, with a balance tube for the wastegate. that way the exhaust pulses would hit alternating sides of the wheel right after each other. my garrett t4 has a 1.15 A/R

is that going to be for those mystery roller rockers that were on ebay awhile back?

the seller is listed as being in california...

how long (if at all) was this car sitting before you got it? mine sat for a few years at least with the driver's side window down (because the door handles were both broken, go figure) under a tarp, and the wiring and ecu looked like they came from the titanic. the reason i ask is because fuel will start to go bad after a certain amount of time, and any old gas left in the lines or tank will leave varnish deposits that could concievably be enough to prevent the fuel from getting to the front of the car. another possibility is that the pump has some internal failure such that it's electric motor is turning, but it's not actually pumping. if you hotwire it with fuel coming to it, and it doesn't spit out the other side, you've just isolated your problem to the pump itself i would think. try to diagnose your problem by testing only one variable at a time: you've proven gas will leak out of the tank, so that's good. it won't get to the front of the car, so see if it will come out of the pump, then see if it's getting from the pump to the fuel filter inlet, then from there to the rail and so on. you can test injectors with a 9 volt battery. just run jumper wires from the + and - of the battery to the terminals on the injector and listen for the click. polarity doesn't matter in this test i don't believe...