rturbo 930

What's wrong with the welds?

No, but I can get some. I'll try to remember to do that tomorrow.

Yes you can. I have a 12/70, and a PO upgraded the front bar and put on a rear bar. From what I can tell from being under it the other day, there are two solid chunks of metal that bolt (?) to the underside, and the sway bar is mounted to those. The two chunks of metal (per mount) looked to be about, guessing, 1.5" long, and 3/4" wide/thick.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25148 Okay, it's a four car, not a two car, but close enough. I think that is my most favorite "practical" garage of all time. This is another that I really like: http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5322

Way to assume

Well, how good was the condition of the car before hand? Assuming it's pretty decent, I'd just fix it. Make sure the car is still straight though...

Small update: -Dash is "in". It's physically in the car, but only held in with a few bolts. -I determined that the reason that the old doors that came with the car were not fitting properly was more than just an alignment issue. New doors in the process of being put on. They appear to be a much better fit. -"New" wheels and tires. New, as in, I got them on a parts car, and the tires are good. The tires that the car came with were not good, and one of the wheels was the spare tire. -I got a new (to me) series one steering wheel and four strut isolators, radiator and electric fan, and series one hatch, thanks to Armand, getoffmyinternet and zredbaron. All are great people to deal with -This car will be getting flared. When I got it, the PO let me know that he took a DA to the rear quarter and noticed there was a bit of bondo. He thought the car had been flared at one point, which I think was a very accurate assessment after my findings today. Curiosity got the best of me and I removed the remaining bondo from the drivers rear quarter. There is a seam about 2" in all the way around the fender lip. On the back side, it stops about where the bumper is, very much like if someone were to flare the car with ZG flares. Didn't find the end of the front side. At the very least, it stops at the top of the dog leg, where it transitions into the fender lip. Will investigate more later, but at least my questions are answered. -Oh yeah, I discovered my e-brake is not connected to anything today. Surprised me, since it seemed to be working the whole time, haha. -And one last thing. My mustache bar bushings are not only shot, they don't exist. The car came with new mustache bar bushings, and only THREE of the four washers. If anyone has a fourth washer that you won't be using that is used in the replacement urethane bushing kit from MSA, or otherwise, please let me know. In the meantime, I will see if I can't locate it, or find a suitable replacement. I'll get some pics taken in a few days, hopefully. In the meantime, here's some pics I took a few months ago.

I think either of the colors you mentioned would look great. What are your plans for it otherwise?

Looks a lot like a tranny mount from a 280Z.

depends how the unibody is fixed (ie, panels bought, DIY vs pay someone), but it could add up to MUCH more than 500-1k. A couple times that.

I would say that's truly a once in a lifetime opportunity.

Pics? If it's what I think you're talking about, you overlap the two and spotweld the two together, like they did from the factory.

If that's all the rust your 240z had, that's not even comparable to the 280z posted in this thread. That 240z looks like a parts car as well. You're looking the wrong places.

You're not talking about that rusty 280Z are you? If you are, RUN (not walk) AWAY FROM THAT CAR. Run, and don't look back.

Zlyfe, this is a MUCH better option. Shouldn't take much work to get that one rust free and running. Yes, cut out all the rust affected areas, and weld in new metal. It's not really a "just" weld in new metal process though. It takes a LOT of time, money, and that's provided you have a welder and the skills to use it. If you don't, then add in cost of labor. Do yourself a HUGE favor and get a nearly rust free car.

Keep looking.

Pics! Hard to tell you much without them. However, having "been there done that" I'll just say spend as much as you can on getting a solid, rust free shell. CA and AZ are good places to look.

I think he means the North East when he says NE, not Nebraska.

Same thing happened to me when I tried it just now.

Hey Dave - http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/1427001015.html Just saw that.

IIRC, gaijin (spelling?), mull, and another member here have done 240sx/skyline rear suspension swaps. A simple search should turn up the results pretty easily.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/blueovalz

I'll admit, I've been the guy who changed his mind. However, I did call to tell him I didn't want it so he could go back to selling it and so as not to waste his time. I didn't appreciate the attitude he gave me when I politely told him I had changed my mind because I didn't want another project that was way over my head. Oh well. Good luck with the sale... or perhaps in this case, maybe not?

I MIGHT have something for you. It's pretty damn rough though. I'll get pics for you to decide... surprisingly though, no holes! At least that I know of.

How do you plan to brace the car while you do all this?