ktm

Thanks for the picture! I may have to run down a set of the stockers with the tubes.

Yes,you can flip the fuel rail 180 degrees without fitment issues (see photo below). The car is looking good. I saw you are installing the Wolf Creek kit......I did not realize that was another option for us and am now drooling over their website.

I was looking at the Jacob wires a while ago but cannot seem to find anyone who has them in stock. I think I may try two of the Accel 9000 wires for the two plugs where the wires touch. 74_5.0L_Z, I have those socks on my wires and they do not help.....as a matter of fact, I think it makes it worse since the plug insulator is in intimate contact with the sock, and given the sock thickness it is, in turn, in contact with the header. I don't see how stock LS1 wires will work either as it is cylinders 3 and 5 (middle 2 on drivers side) that have the clearance issue.

The headers have the coating option from JTR and they still burn up.

+1 I would not get too excited.

I just about bought those a week ago, but then I read on the product description that they provide heat protection at 1/2-in. away from the header. The issue I have is two of the wires rest on, or within a millimeter or two, of the header. I know you can buy individual wires as well and may go that route just to test. Thanks for the link.

I hate to say it, but misery loves company. I am very happy to hear that I am not the only one burning up plug wires like crazy. Keith, I've used the MSD adjustable wires as well and they burn up too. The issue I have is the thickness of the insulator, even when bent, combined with the proximity of the plug means that the insulator is resting (or within 1 mm) on the header. Thanks for the honest responses all.

I forgot to add that I also tried using the ls2 GTO wires (they have 90 degree boots) and those are burning up because of insufficient clearance is well.

Ok, I just burned through another 3 spark plug wires after I thought I finally addressed the issue. I used the MSD adjustable wires with DEI boots and DEI aluminized shielding and they still burned through after 5000 miles. It is very noticeable when they burn through as the car runs and sounds like crap due the the wires arcing on the JTR headers. So I ask those of you who are running the JTR headers (not the JCI as they are smaller), what have you done to address the plug wire clearance issue on the two center wires on the drivers side as well as the front wire on the passenger side? The passenger side wire was probably my fault for not giving it the proper clearance as there is room, but the drivers side will damn near always rest again the header. Thanks, Bo

2/16 fits in the dash provisions nicely IN the stock cups which is how I did mine.

I am using a Speedhut speedo but mine is connected to the speed sensor from the transmission.

Dammit Jon, now I want to watch that movie....I love that movie.

Which is what I ran for a few years and loved it, though it did drone at highway speeds. It is loud inside the car but sounded great. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWMSIYn5hro

There is a company combining two LS1s to make a V12: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1643786-v12-ls1-build.html

Nope. I am running a 160 without issue and that is a common modification. I mentioned it before but have you checked your lower radiator hose? That sounds like it could be the culprit. At lower speeds around town your engine is typically spinning fewer RPMs and thus your water pump is not spinning as fast (creating less suction, less flow). As your RPMs rise at freeway speeds, you create more suction on the pump inlet and collapse the hose.

Yep.

Keith, the Ford Taurus and Lincoln Mark VIII fans are dual speed fans with a single fan. There is a ton of information on the 'net as well as Hybridz/LS1tech about this (and the Lincoln Mark VIII) fan. Exactly. Mike, your car really should not be overheating. I have a very similar setup: LS1/4L60E, cone filter protrudes from the side into the radiator area, and the trans cooler hangs down a little in front of the radiator. I know you said you and your buddy made sure you tested the system for air, but it could not hurt to check again. Have you checked the thermostat? Is it opening? It sounds like your fan is operating on high the entire time you are driving (both around town and at highway speeds). Just had a thought.....what about your lower radiator hose? I had a helluva time trying to source mine so I cobbled together an ugly frankenstein hose. Recently, got tired of looking at it and decided to replace it. Well, all of my replacements wound up severely kinking after one heating cycle. I went a slightly different route and used two 90ish elbows with a section of aluminum pipe. What is the condition of your lower hose?

OMG........30 possible gear combinations

....yes, but if he wires up the high speed switch on the fan to the low speed switch on the PCM, the high speed will turn on when the PCM is calling for the low speed.

Sounds odd. Typically you run hotter around town and cooler on the freeway. Just today (75 degree ambient) my car never went above 175 degrees on the freeway. You should not have to wire your high speed in-lieu of your low speed. My low speed fan cools my car down fine. The ONLY time I actually manually turned on the high speed fan was when it was 108 degrees outside and I was stuck in traffic due to an accident. Are you 100% certain that you've eliminated all air out of your cooling system?

I have absolutely no cooling problems at all with my ls1. When driving on the freeway my temperatures are about 175 degrees, this is with a 160 degree thermostat. My Ford Taurus fan is set to come on at 200 degrees and shut off of 195 degrees. I've wire up the second speed to a manual switch.

Edit: I missed the part where the tumbler was determined to be a potential issue.

It is the inlet to the water pump. Tony D and I talked about where I should route the bypass and the inlet to the water pump is the easiest and cleanest location for a street car. Keep in mind that I was not doing it for cooling purposes per se, but to get the hot water that was stagnating at the back of the head out. I kept blowing head gaskets and every single time it was between #5 and #6. After the mod I would blow periodically them but they would be between #3 and #4 or #4 and #5. The bypass does not flow a significant quantify of coolant so by-passing the radiator was not an issue and I never saw an increase in the overall operating temperature of the car. Again, it was just to get the water moving from the back of the head.

There is your short. The white and white/red wires at the ammeter are connected together through the ammeter. Connecting the white/red to ground is a short. The ammeter acts as a bridge for the white and white/red wires and shows the charging state of the battery. Connect the white and white/red wires together and you should be good to go.

Which is what I was running on my car I believe. It was loud and droned right at highway RPMs.