ktm

How so? I don't know when you are seating the spring, but I let the car down slowly until the upper perch just touches the spring. I then seat the spring (it takes very little effort) by wrapping my hands around the spring and continue lowering the car. I do not place my fingers between the coils for the same reason you cite.

I am using a 240z tank that I had modified.

I did exactly this. It is truly a labor of love. Have some good music playing and a few glasses/bottles of your favorite drink on hand and have at it.

JTR offers an option to buy the headers from them already coated. It is a $100 add if I remember correctly. They look phenomenal (silver coated) and have not tarnished one bit with 10,000 miles on them.

My setup is the same. JTR headers to a single 3-in. after the y-pipe. I love the shot below. Reminds me of a Matchbox car.

It's really not that much of a chore. It adds, at most, 2 minutes to a job. Coil overs are nice, but unless you are racing or are after a slammed look they are the last thing you need to modify.

The primary size IS the primary difference. The JTR headers (which I am using) have the larger primary and as such you run into spark plug boot issues on a few of the cylinders due to clearance. I finally went back to the stock LS1 aluminum covers and had to slightly modify (dent) one of them.

Let's be honest. The springs and perches may cost $400, but unless you can weld everything yourself, the total install cost for a new coil over package is over $1000.

Run the Ford Taurus or Lincoln Mark VIII fans if you go this route. In addition, do a bit of blocking to direct all the air through the radiator. I did so (and am running a Taurus fan) and I never see over 180 degrees on the highway even when it is 90+ degrees outside.

I took a closer look at your picture as well as my setup. I am a bit closer than I originally stated only because I misunderstood where you were rubbing. Are you sure that the stub shaft(s) is(are) fully seated in the R200?

Congratulations on the swap. There is nothing more satisfying than hearing the engine fire to life for the first time. I like the blue. I painted my car Audi Solar Orange, but two of the leading contenders were blues. Audi Nogaro Blue and BMW Laguna Seca Blue. The Nogaro blue is very similar to the Lambo color.

Yesterday while driving to the Irvine Cars and Coffee, my dashlights, running lights and headlights all went out right as I arrived at the location. I had them on for 35 minutes without any issue. Upon arrival at my destination, I suddenly noticed that my dashlights were out and when I tested my headlights, I could see that they too were now non-operational. I thought I had simply blown a fuse, but it kept blowing as soon as I replaced it. Damn, an electrical short..... I spent 2.5 hours today chasing the short. I rewired most of my car 4 years ago due to an electrical short that started a fire in the engine bay. I *knew* it could not be my wiring but I tested everything just to be safe. Sure enough, I narrowed it down to the rear tail light/running light harness which I did not rewire. However, that was not the culprit as it turned out. I had everything in the rear disconnected except one wire......one wire that should have been connected to ground. You see where I am going. I had the car painted in February and the painter removed the marker lights to paint the car. Well, long story short, he switched the wires on the passenger side marker light. I have no idea why the light functioned for 30 minutes before finally blowing the fuse, but when I was chasing the short I went through a number of fuses because I assumed that that lone wire I did not disconnect was connected correctly. I examined it closely and realized that the power wire from the harness was connected to the ground wire on the light. As soon as I disconnected it, no more blowing fuses. I post this as an example to never assume.

Sorry, I could not see where he was rubbing. I clear just fine on the inside and outside. I am running an R200 (3.70 CLSD). I should point out as well that since I was already lowered using the Tokico springs and struts (280z springs cut), by shortening the sway bar endlink the end is now parallel to the ground.

I don't understand how you are hitting anything. Below is a pic of my Wolf Creek CV swap with ST sway bars. I have great clearance on both sides. I did shorten the end link (spacer) slightly so I would not hit anything on full droop (when the car is jacked).

Thanks all. Life has kept me pretty busy since I originally posted these pictures. Following are the "final" pictures with the bumper installed. The company is Universal Metal Plating in Azusa that straightened and re-chromed my rear bumper. The chrome job is fantastic as well as the straightening. It is not perfectly strait as they pointed out that it was straightened before in its life, but the chrome is nearly flawless. It took 3 weeks due to their back-log, but I am more than happy with how it came out. The paint shop is located in Lake Elsinore and is called Unrestricted Auto Trends. I drove the car out there and had a buddy follow me to take me home. The paint is not perfect by any means but for what I paid (which includes a new windshield) I am happy.

Thank you for coming back and posting the solution. Many times people are left wondering what was the ultimate cause. Cheers.

What you are missing is that a broken half-shaft, if it is completely sheared, will flail around under the car potentially taking out fuel lines, brake lines, etc., whereas a broken diff means you are not moving anywhere anytime soon but are not a hazard to yourself or those around you.

The turn signals and hazards are two different issues and most likely both switches are the culprit. if you read the wiring diagram, you'll see that the hazard operates the lights without going through the turn signal switch. The 240z turn signal switch has 4 contacts and 4 wires, one for each corner. It appears that the contact or wire for the left rear is the culprit. The contact could have a lot of corrosion which is causing a large voltage drop and preventing the light from illuminating, or else it could be the wire coming from the contact to the plug under the cover. The hazard switch operates the four lights independently of the switch, so if one light is out but it works when the turn signals are used, then it could be the hazard switch or the wire coming from the switch.

Because the senders are not in the same place. My Speedhuts are 10 degrees higher than the PCM based on when the fan kicks on.

Most of the S30 gauges are dual gauges, so so when you replace those with single style gauges you're going to need at least 5 or 6. You are missing volt gage which is very important. Vacuum gage would be good as well.

It's most likely the little armature at the back of the hub that is not making contact with the grounding ring. Grant steering wheels also have this problem. Mine would work for a week and then stop working. I finally grew tired of it and wired up my horn to the windshield washer button on the end of the combo stalk. It's spring loaded just like the horn button and just as easy to push when needed.

I have no problem with CV axle clearance on my setup. When I jack the car up I have around 1 mm of clearance. I did shorten the end link slightly for clearance at full droop (when jacked up).

Gary, I have the same setup (240z ST kit, R200 3.70 LSD differential) and did not have any issues. I do not have a finned cover so I could use the stock brace. There are no issues with clearance. The sway bar should clear the finned cover as it tucks up right under the mustache bar but you'll need a new brace. Damn 13 mp camera on my phone shows shit I can't see looking at it!

Isn't Wolf Creek's setup also 930 based? They state Porsche-type and using 4340 chromoly stub shafts.

I have 2008 Miata seats in my car and they are fantastic. I did not have to do a thing to the seat itself.