ktm

If you have a car with a "modern" transmission that uses a digital speed sensor, I would opt for the normal speedo. Calibration of the speedo is stupid simple even for ratio changes due to gearing, differentials, tires, etc. However, if you have a mechanical sending unit in an older transmission, the GPS speedo is the way to go.

Why did you still use the clear plexiglas cover? I ditched mine when I did my install. I use the stock front black plastic trim piece as well and only friction fit my gauges into place. I also used a relay for my high-beam indicator, but unlike you mine actually works. I gotta say, I love the combo speedo/fuel gauge setup. I wish they had that when I ordered mine.

The lug nuts you are looking for will have a shank on them compared to the acorn style. The shank style are for lug-centric wheels (original S30) versus acorn which are for hub centric setups. The lug nuts are 12x1.25.

JTR 1-7/8" headers to 2.5-in. mandrel bent exhaust, merging into a custom built 3-in. y-pipe, then 3-in. mandrel bent all the way to a 3-in. spiral core resonator and then a Flowmaster 40-series muffler. My exhaust shop supplied all of the materials. I asked them about flex connectors and there were against them, however, if I were to have issues with exhaust leaks at the collectors due to not having them they would install them for free. The flanges provided by JTR are abolute ****. Mine were thin, warped and out of round. The shop supplied some nice thick (very similar to the JTR flanges) flanges.

Correct, 2.5-in. into a single 3-in. The exhaust cost $590 and includes two thick laser cut flanges for the collectors, 4 O2 sensor bungs, all mandrel bent pipe, 3-in. spiral core resonator, all hangers, and the muffler. Well worth it in my opinion.

The wheels are Rota Grid Offroad, 16x8 +10 Here is the original exhaust. It is a bit more hollow compared to the new exhaust which seems to have a fair bit more lower frequencies.

When I completed my build back in July 2011, my neighbor across the street recommended an exhaust shop relatively close by. My neighbor has had numerous street rods, primarily original '30s, and this shop was (supposedly) frequented by hot rodders. However, over the course of the past year, I noticed numerous issues with their work ranging from incomplete welds around pipes that allowed air intrusion before the O2 sensors, hangers breaking and leaving holes in the pipe, rigid hangers that transmitted all vibrations to the cabin, numerous transistions with crushed bent pieces, clearance issues with low hanging exhaust, and to top it all off, a Flowmaster CLONE was installed instead of a true Flowmaster. Many of my performance and tuning issues were due to this rather crappy exhaust system. I just had a new system installed by Roger's Exhaust in Fontana, California. I originally wanted Roger's to do my first install, but the towing charge would have been around $200. My neighbor offered to tow my car in his enclosed trailer to the shop close by and at the time the shop close by made sense. Lesson learned. Roger's Exhaust is talked about highly on LS1tech.com and they seem to have a lot of postive reviews. I spent the entire day at their shop. They were forthright with their pricing and Roger's brother Sparky did the entire fabrication. His welds are fantastic and he has a lot of pride in his work. They managed to tuck the exhaust up another 0.75 to 1-in. using all mandrel bent pieces, added a nice spiral flow resonator (which was DEFINITELY needed - the drone at 1700 rpm rattled my brain), built a custom Y-pipe, and topped it off with a Flowmaster muffler. Below are the pictures and link to a sound clip. For those of you in So. Cal. looking for a shop that does nice exhaust work, check out Roger's Exhaust in Fontana.

I say this with all kindness, do yourself a favor and start searching Ls1tech.com. They have a lot more information about LSx swaps than Hybridz. I found all of my wiring diagrams, wiring swaps, harness information, etc. from LS1tech.com.

It may be an issue of the transmissions we are using. I opted for the 4L60E and you have a T56. While JCI's mount is the same, maybe the mounting position is different. I broke my collarbone mountain biking 2 weeks ago and won't be under the car for a bit.

I had no issue with the JCI transmission mount on my 1972 240z. It conformed to the transmission tunnel perfectly and fit exactly between the frame rails.

Now with a picture.

I don't know if this helps, but I installed a B&M Stealth Pro ratchet shifter on my LS1/4L60E setup. I have a 1972 240z and needed to trim the shifter opening slightly in the front and back. I created a cradle that bolted to the underside of the transmission tunnel below the shifter hole. The cradle holds the Stealth Pro so that the shifter arm is in the stock position and does not stand up very high.

Long story short - I did something stupid while installing a Slover ported head with an Isky cam. I sold the setup and dropped in an LS1.

My old turbo setup with a 3-in. exhaust and a Borla XR-1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWMSIYn5hro

I installed the oil pressure sender from Speedhut into the stock pressure sender location and used a 1/8-bspt to 1/8-npt adapter. I was running a standalone engine management system that did not require an oil pressure signal. My coolant temp was provided by a different sender than the one from Speedhut.

Because he is a dumbass running street 205 tires. There is no sense in that much power if you can't put it to the ground.

I don't worry about it. I have a 4L60E with a B&M Stealth Pro ratchet shifter. Dust boot? What is that?

Keith, this forum tends to be a bit slow. It's ALWAYS a smart thing to disconnect the battery when working on electrical items regardless if you have an EFI or carb'd car. If you set up your power supply to the PCM "correctly", you can always just pull the power fuses to the PCM. When you disconnect the power source to the PCM all you do is reset it but it will retain any custom tune you may have. Me? I have a battery disconnect switch that I simply flip when doing electrical work on my car.

Sitting behind the steering rack is not the end all/be all for weight distribution. While it does help, there are many other considerations that come into play. An LSx sits behind the steering rack as well, the alternative and crank pulley are the only things over the rack. I would imagine that an SBC sits behind the rack too.

Speedhut Revoluation Series: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86127-my-speedhut-gauge-install/

Same here. Deka makes most of the ATV batteries. Deka is a battery manufacturer, not a relabeler like Braille (yes, they relabel Deka), etc. It has no capacity whatsoever, so you can't leave your radio or lights on otherwise it will drain the battery. However, it is an AGM, rechargeable, light and inexpensive ($80).

This does not surprise me. I had a few young engineers working for me who could not tell me how to calculate flow in a channel (a very, VERY basic equation) or understand the limitations of the methods in the computer programs they were using to generate answers. Even worse was that they were using slope stability software without understanding a damn clue about slope stability! I quickly left that company knowing full well that they were always one project away from disaster. The EIT is a joke. It is now called the FE (fundamentals of engineering) and changed in 1994. I took it (in 1994) hungover and without studying. Passed with flying colors. I took my PE 8 years ago (after a 3 year stint in China). I was the first one to walk out of the exam by a good 15 minutes. It basically determines whether or not you are breathing. Now the surveying and seismic (California) were a real test. I overheard some folks talking that they were there for their 4 or 5th time! Like the old joke goes, what do you call a med school student who got Cs? Doctor. The same goes for engineering. Here is your diploma for participating and paying your tuition!

I did not have any issues with the actual transmission mount itself fitting as it should. I had to beat the hell out of the transmission tunnel on the passenger side up towards the firewall for clearance for the 4L60E though.

That is another way to do it. If you have two fans and want to utilize them, then have them both turn on at the same time. You can do this through HP Tuners or other tuning software. I set my fan to turn on at 205 degrees and off at 195 degrees (I have HP Tuners).

Do you have AC? If not, there is no need for the second fan. The GM PCM (for an LS1) only uses the second fan when the AC kicks on or the temperature reaches 230+ degrees.