ktm

Depending on how Haltech manages fueling, I have some maps from when I had an L28ET and was using a Wolf V500. I have quite a few maps I could share if they manage fueling, cold starts, etc. similarly.

JTR's headers have larger primaries than JCI's headers. Neither have fitment issues, but the JTR headers has issues with spark plug clearance (at least for me).

I used the stock Camaro harness and installed the PCM inside the car at the bottom of the firewall on the passenger side. I did not need to extend the harness either. Attached is a picture shortly after the install. I've since tidied-up the wiring.

Been chasing a rear knock sensor low voltage code and P0131 P0151 (O2 low voltage) codes in my LS1 swap as well as an oil leak at the back of the manifold. The knock sensor code means the sensor has failed, harness is pinched, etc. The other two codes may be due to bad O2 sensors, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, etc. Ordered new knock sensors (2), new knock sensor harnesses, new O2 sensors, new valley cover gasket, new knock sensor gaskets, and new intake manifold gaskets. Pulled everything off tonight and found out the valley cover gasket was leaking like a sieve, the rear knock sensor depression was full of oil, the rear knock sensor gasket was half off, and the intake manifold gaskets were in need of replacement. Additionally, I learned that this one little plastic connector on the back of the manifold was for the Camaro/Firebird a/c and heater vents; I had it connected to my manifold but it was not connected to anything else......can you say vacuum leak?

I connected mine on the return line to the radiator as shown in the picture below.

There was a trick on LS1tech about raising the open loop RPM threshold such that the car never went into closed loop. Doing so makes the engine rely solely on the AFR table. A lot of aftermarket ECUs are setup this way and do not rely on O2 sensor input. My Wolf V500 I ran on my turbo setup was the same - it relied on a table of fuel injector pulse widths. The OP in the LS1 thread talked about it as a means of dealing with the same issue you are: http://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/1556448-can-o2-sensors-completely-tuned-out.html Shorties will do it too.....I am using the JTR headers and my O2s will respond slowly at times. It could be a case of not all O2s are created equal though.

I was called out as a liar on another forum talking about this brake upgrade, but I managed to get my 240 SX and Toyota front calipers to work well where I've got balanced proportioning.. I am using Porterfield r4s is in the front and pads are supplied with the 240 SX kid in the rear. Maybe i just got lucky.

Go to ls1tech.com, search about lazy o2 sensors and headers and enjoy the reading.

You have not tried it and are going by conjecture. I was worried about the same thing but once installed they are no harder to look at than the three in the top cluster. I have the gauges turned upside down so that I can see the operating ranges. I can casually glance down with no more effort than looking at the top three gauges. Besides, the gauges are fuel (bottom left), water temperature (top) and voltage (bottom right). These three parameters are only rarely looked at while driving. The three gauges in the top cluster are AFR, manifold pressure and oil pressure. The original intent of my post was to support what Timz was saying about prioritizing the gauge position.

My fuel pump died so I am re-doing the fuel system by the tank. I just ordered a replacement Walbro and ditched the Russell 40 micron pre-filter. The Russell filter killed the pump. I also ordered a Peterson Fluid Systems 600 series shut-off valve and 100 micron filter. I am going to replace the small sections of -6 SS braided hoses (5+ years old now) with teflon coated lines and run a small SS hardline section from the tank to the new Peterson filter.

Along with Timz's suggestion:

Thanks for the response Keith. I may try one of the flexible hoses but as you know it's fairly tight in there. I am hoping someone has found that elusive hose that is a perfect fit though.

Bueller?

Not all today but over the course of the past 3 weeks: Fabricated two front ducts and 3 blocking plates to force more air through the radiator Replaced my Flex-a-lite 210 with a Ford Taurus 2-speed fan Replaced my old, cheap Dual head unit with an Apline 135BT Got tired of not having horns so installed low and high tone FIAMM horns and wired them up to my fluid washer button (they are loud!) Replaced my floor mats with new woven pile mats from MSA

For those of you using an Arizona Zcar or 280z radiator (it's my understanding that they are dimensionally the same in area not thickness), what lower radiator hose did you use? I cobbled one together but it's been leaking lately and I would like to have a single piece if possible or at least one that looks and functions better than my Frankenstein. Thanks, Bo

I just wanted to post about a relay kit for the Taurus/Lincoln fans that is currently available for sale on Ebay through the Hollister Road Company. The kit is incredibly well made and includes everything you need to wire up a Taurus/Lincoln fan, including a temperature switch if you are not running a PCM. (Ebay Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Mark-VIII-2-Speed-Fan-Relay-Kit-/111007164874?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19d88ae9ca) The Ebay link photo does not do the kit justice. The kit costs $90 and includes 3 high amp relays, one (1) 50 amp fuse in a water tight connector (large on in the photo), one (1) 7.5 amp fuse (for the ignition hot wire going to the relays) in a weather pack connector, 10 ga wires for the fan power feeds and ground, a temperature switch for 2 speeds. The power and PCM control wires are sufficiently long to allow you to mount the relays just about anywhere except inside the car (the power wires are the limitation). I can't recommend this kit enough. Sure, you can source your own relays, fuses and wires, as well as spend a couple hours wiring everything up correctly, but you'll spend almost as much money as this kit and it most likely won't be as "professional" looking. I hope this helps someone who is looking to do this install at some time.

I have the exact same setup in the same locations as well.

Follow my link to HPTuners website and read about the standard package. The $499 standard setup is all you'll need.

Domzs, it is not $700 plus credits. I have no idea where you got that pricing from. I paid $450 (maybe $499, can't remember) for mine from HPTuners 2 years ago and it includes enough credits for 3 engines. Here is the link for the standard HPTuners which is all you need: http://www.hptuners.com/order.php

+5 for Magnecor. RTz turned me onto them when I installed my turbo swap and I was gravely concerned about RF interference with the trigger signal. You really can't go wrong with them.

Yep, though I paid $90 for hot tanking in Fullerton a few years ago and the shop was apologetic about the price! Call around to engine shops and they'll point you in the right direction.

Honestly, buy HPTuners and be done with it. You can then turn off VATS yourself, adjust your temperature settings for your fans, adjust your idle (this is just basic stuff), and if so inclined even tune your car. Its a few hundred more than sending your PCM out, but the flexibility it offers you is priceless. I forgot to add that you can also read and reset codes with HPTuners which is VERY helpful if your car starts running like crap. Lastly, there are many other places with MORE information about swapping in an LS1 than Hybridz. LS1tech has more information on LS1 swaps than Hybridz and all other websites combined. They will have everything you need to complete the swap (wiring diagrams, pin outs, trouble shooting, etc.).

Mazda also has an inverted flare tee that we can use (part no. FB0145291A). I bought mine from Jim Ellis Mazda Parts on-line: http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/products/JOINT--PIPE/1856623/FB0145291A.html

I am trying to figure out why you cut your radiator support for 2.5-in. piping. I ran 2.5-in. piping for my IC (on my old turbo setup) which was in front of the radiator and did not have to cut anything.

I think he was refering to the differential swap, not the engine.