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ktm

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Everything posted by ktm

  1. Good news. I was a bit melodramatic following the accident as the hood and driver's side fender made it look much worse than it really was. I pulled the fenders, lower valence, and hood off the car to assess the damage. The core support on the driver's side was mangled, but the rest of the car is in pretty good shape. It is at the frame shop now. They quoted $700 to fix it and I should be getting it back in about a week. This place has been around 40 years and all they really work on is older cars or spill over from production shops. They will do their best with the core support and I will have to see what it looks like when they are finished. The vertical part is actually in good condition, it is just the upper corner piece.
  2. Thanks all. I need to calm down and think things through a bit. I try not to go into the garage unless I have to, but I did take a good look at it this morning. Much like what Jon said, there really isn't much up front. The passenger door opens fine, the drivers side takes a bit of force due to the left fender. The cowl looks fine. Hell, my strut towers may be fine (I have a strut bar) and a nice thick sway bar with reinforced frame rails. I just need to mull my options over. Tony, I'll get back to you shortly. Cheers, Bo
  3. I took Thursday and Friday off as mental health days and it allowed me to take care of some things for my father-in-law. On Friday afternoon I went out for lunch and on the way back it happened. The temperatures had cooled significantly and my tires were wearing thin. We were accelerating from a stop light and I made a maneuver to pass on the right once we cleared the intersection. The rest is a blur. Next thing I know I am slamming into the rear corner of a Suzuki SUV. She spun sideways and skidded a little distance and went up over the curb. I do not recall how fast I was going but it was probably around 25 to 30 in a 45. I gave the car maybe 1/3 to 1/2 throttle and all hell broke loose. I do not believe that I hit her with a significant amount of differential speed as the engine was not touched. The radiator and fan are pushed in to right before the water pump. It looks like I hit a pole. Three Sheriff's were there within a minute (odd). They must have been a number of cars back behind us. At first one was rather pissed with me asking why was I speeding somewhere. He said all he heard was a loud exhaust and then boom. He calmed down significantly after talking with me and the other two Sheriff's after a while. One of the Sheriff's was rather sympathetic (to a degree) and was talking to me about the car. At the end, the first Sheriff who was agitated was talking to me reasonably. Explaining how accidents happen (no, this was avoidable) and that he was not going to lecture me as we both know. The one eye witness told me I was driving like an ass, but she was probably explaining what she saw as the car broke loose. To make matters worse, I found out that my wife changed my policy on the Z to liability only....... So, look for a sale thread in a few days. I will be trying to sell the entire car with the swap. The car runs fine right now but the entire front end is destroyed.
  4. Glad you finally got it working. Sometimes lucky will suffice. I am wondering (not really thinking hard about it), if you had a floating ground issue that may have caused the problem.
  5. The R/L line is dash lights. There is also an R/L line that feeds the dome light, map light, and glove box light. It should not get spliced into anything else. The green wire you are talking about is the turn signal power. It goes to the auto kick down, hazard switch and tach.
  6. The voltage affects the fuel pump which then, in turn, affects the fuel flow/pressure. I compensated for voltage drop in my fuel table (when I was running Wolf) by increasing the injector pulse width as the voltage dropped to account for the reduced fuel pressure. If the fans are the Flex-a-lite 210s, then they should really draw no more than 20 amps. However, if you are running a stock alternator but have upgraded other parts of the car, then you may have issues with insufficient power. Additionally, when do you experience the performance issues? At idle? If it's only at idle, then that is a function of the alternator curve. The alternator output is not 70 amps at idle. JeffP and I were chasing amperage issues with our builds. I went with a CS144 alternator at the time to help with the amp draw at idle as well as provide a sufficient capacity for the car.
  7. I would run a cooler. I am using a 4L60E as well and installed a trans cooler. As a matter of fact, that is one recommendation that is consistent on LS1tech.com regarding the 4L60E. Out of curiousity, where up top? Mine is in the location down by the filter and I am using a Speedhut gauge.
  8. Been there, done that, and all I got was a lousy t-shirt! People always say, "How do you eat an elephant" One bite at a time......" and smile to themselves as they believe they've just enlightened you. Hey Confucius, it's still a friggin' elephant and for some reason this one is all a$$hole!
  9. Newoldschool, regardless of wheel width and offset, the backspace is absolute. Once you know the maximum backspace available you can then figure out the rest to a degree. The generally accepted maximum backspace of a wheel that will clear the STOCK suspension is 4.5-inches. So, a 9-in. wheel with 0 offset has 4.5 inches of backspace. However, it will not (most likely) clear the fender. In my case, a 16x8 +10mm wheel has 4.4" of backspace (8-in. / 2 + 10-mm/(25.4mm per inch) - you ADD the positive offset since it is pushing the inside wheel lip inwards thus creating backspace. Thus, the wheel itself clears the stock suspension, however, if you run a wide tire on it you may run into a situation where the TIRE rubs on the springs.
  10. You know you can search backspace here on Hybridz. There is a magic maximum backspace that you size you wheel width and offset to achieve.
  11. Clifton ran 275s on his car nonflared. He was also using coil overs in order to achieve it though. 245s are about the widest you can go without coil overs due to the diameter of the spring and perch. Coil overs are smaller in diameter and will allow you to go wider with the right offset.
  12. There was rubbing galore, but you will get rubbing with 225's on the stock lower valence. If you run an air dam then that helps with some of the rubbing issues up front. I, however, am using the stock valence along with a Bre spook. I had to trim the lower valences a bit for clearance, but it does not look bad at all. I have a 10mm spacer up front as well to help with brake clearance; I am not using a spacer in the rear. I barely rimmed the spring perch in the rear as well to give myself a little more clearance. I had to roll the fender ips on all four corners otherwise I would get serious rubbing if I went over the slightest bump. Now, I only get the occasional chirp from the passenger rear tire if I hit a severe road dip/transition on the highway and really compress the suspension. Otherwise, no rubbing.
  13. 245/50 R16 on 16x8 +10 wheels, Tokico HP Blues and cut 280z springs. No reason for coil overs to fit 245s.
  14. I asked before, do you have HP Tuners or the ability to pull codes? Did you wire up an OBD-II port ? Right now you are simply guessing whereas the PCM, if you have an OBD-II port, may be able to shed some light on the issue. If you are not throwing codes, then you could at least narrow it down to those items that would throw a code. Saying that, I had a similar issue that did turn out to be the battery cable on the alternator would touch the mount under acceleration. However, that was easy to figure out because the car would lose ALL power, including electrical (radio would cut out). If the car just dies but you still have electrical power, then the radio should stay on. Do a quick test next time. Turn your radio on and see if you lose all electrical power when the car dies. While you may have sorted the alternator grounding issue, you could still have a grounding issue somewhere. Also, are you using the rubber plug that covers the alternator lug? You could be ground arcing or you may have rubbed through it. Finally, there are other forums that have more information about LS's than Hybridz. Have you checked out LS1tech.com for instance?
  15. Not exactly related, but I came from an L28ET swap where I was using a Wolf V500 standalone to the OEM PCM after converting to an LS. I sorely miss the standalone compared the OE PCM. The OE is very large/bulky/cumbersome compared to the new standalones. Tuning the OE PCM is a PITA compared to Megasquirt or Wolf/Haltech, etc., at least in my opinion. The tables in the OE PCM are not straight-forward either compared to a standalone. However, the OE is setup for a manufacturer that must comply with emission standards, etc. and provide OBD-II diagnostics which drives much of the nonsense (IMHO) in the PCM. A standalone does not have the OBD-II nonsense and the car will run regardless of any "code" issue. In my Wolf setup, I only needed a MAP and CAS sensor for the car to run since the fueling and spark table referenced MAP. Saying that, the OBD-II does help tremendously when diagnosing issues if you are not familiar with logging and evaluating said logs. In my opinion, if you think you will go standalone in the future, do it now. The harness would have to be completely torn apart if you went OE first and then converted to a standalone later. You could try to use a pin-out diagram for the two large connectors that connect to the PCM if you did not want to disassemble the harness, but I would not go that route.
  16. Not enough information to help. Have you checked for any codes? I am assuming you are using the stock PCM. \What is your fuel pressure set at? For an LS1 you should be at 58 psi. You may have worn out the pump since the LS1 fuel pressure is quite a bit higher than the stock 280z fuel pressure. Hell, many modern fuel pumps are not rated to 58 psi.
  17. You do not want to weld in JCI mounts. The driver side mount actually requires you to remove the back of TC Cup in order to install it. If you ever wanted to drop the crossmember, then having everything welded together, even if you did not weld the piece to the back of the TC cup, would be difficult.
  18. I was rather lucky with my MSA kit. I bought it 8 years ago and just go around to installing it in February 2014 after the car was painted. My door seals are a little thick but nothing like what I am hearing from seattlejester or Tony. The rear glass and inner hatch strip are fine as are the quarter window panels. I do have a gap with the front windshield gasket on the upper corner of the passenger side. Other than that they worked out very well for me.
  19. Sweet geezus that is impressive.....
  20. You can see the bolt types (and lock wire) in Post #11 in THIS thread.
  21. They are Allen's as they are setup to run safety wire.
  22. JCI's kit requires drilling for the transmission mount and you need to remove the rear T/C up, but that's it. I commented on CX Racing's Youtube video that shows their LS1 mount. The transmission mount they show will not work on a 240z.
  23. ......or search Hybridz.org for the GM CS144 or 10si/12si swap.
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