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Completely disassembled my wipers, sanded the shafts, rebuilt/regreased the linkage, converted to a Honda wiper motor, and rewired the wipers after ditching the wipers, delay unit, etc. years ago. They now work as good as any modern cars wipers, or at least as good as the 1996 Accord where I sourced the motor.

The stock headlights are not weak, it's the wiring out to the lamps that are the culprit. Install one of MSA's headlight relay kits (developed by Z'sondabrains or Dave) and you'll notice a significant improvement.

If it is reading towards to + side, then you are charging more than you are pulling; in other words, you are charging your battery. If it is reading to the - side then you are pulling more than you are charging and draining your battery.

Thanks for the follow-up, but if you read John C's and Tony's posts again your engine is still breaking in. Are you driving it like you stole it (I hope so) or are you babying the car (a no no)?

The only reason I opted for auto this time around is due to LA traffic. I never drove my turbo setup due to the clutch engagement and the stop and go traffic. I've put more miles on my car this past year and the last 5 combined.

I don't think it should matter for my application (custom) but just in case, Series 2. The main issue would be how it connects to the steering column. If it connects the same for all 240zs, then I should be good to go. My wiring harness is not stock.

I am looking for a 240z combo switch. Please PM me with the details and your asking price. Thanks, Bo

rsicard, you could not have spoken more truth. My wiper linkage is already completely disassembled and they were, much like yours, completely rusted. So much so, in fact, that I broke one of the retainers that the spindles pass through (I found replacements though). I agree 100000000% that most likely many of the problems people run into are due to rusted or poorly lubricated pivot shafts. My wiper motor looks damn near new and operates flawlessly. I struggled (am still am) with using the 1995 Accord motor, but ultimately the fact that the Accord motor is 23 years newer, easier to source, and appears more powerful is the reason I decided to move ahead with using it.

Do yourself a favor and check out Speedhut gauges. They offer much of what you are looking for, even when I bought mine 5 years ago. My speedo has the high beam indicator as well as turn signals. I, too, love the look of the stock gauges, but once you start swapping you really want good information as to the health of the car. I constantly mess with people's minds because they see 3 peddles but no clutch cylinder (I opted for the 4L60E in my swap - on purpose!).

Jim, Thank you for the confirmation. I planned on ignoring the the delay box and all associated wiring (N/O, N/C, COM) but was not 100% certain. I have not studied how the relay helps with the park feature as I normally use relays for load re-distribution. Cheers, Bo

I am wiring up a 1995 Honda Accord wiper motor and am thinking about using a 3-position switch instead of the combo switch. I have a quick question regarding wiring up the relay to use the park feature. I believe I should I be able to follow the attached wiring diagram without using the delay box. Is this correct? Thanks, Bo

This forum is not Cars 101. If you can't figure out the basics, then go back and do some more learning.

The Jim Wolf ECU is not the same as the Wolf ECU discussed here.

It's an old thread, but PWM IAC's can also be found on 1990s Ford Contours and Taurii.

http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html ^^^^^^ Your best resource for the S130. Download the FSM and start reading.

As Phantom said, running low profile tires is the real killer on these cars. Replaced my stock seats with a pair of 2008 Mazda Miata seats. Everyone who has sat in them has threatened to steal them when I am not looking. I have 245/50 R16s on my car and it soaks up bumps and minor imperfections nicely. Rewired the car which helped with eletrical stability. Make sure it is tuned and running correctly, make sure all the gaskets are still pliable and functioning as intended goes a long way to combat the exhaust fumes. MAG, good to see you post.

Actually, spend some money and get yourself some real gauges. The stockers are only good for approximation anyways.

I like those DR-54s.

I was looking for your qualifying statement and missed it as I was reading too fast. My apologies. Miles, I believe you and I have disagreed with this setup in the past. I am not advocating this setup but merely offering a counterpoint that it can work. When I bought this setup it was the only setup outside of Wilwood for our cars. I have a 240z booster and a 1979 (if I remember correctly) 280zx 15/16 master cylinder.

Where is the pad coefficient in your calculations? If you want to be picky, you also need to consider pad compound. By adjusting pad compound you can change the bias. For the record, I have the vented Toyota calipers and rear 240sx (later model I believe). I am using Porterfield R4S pads in the front and KVR pads in the rear. I have not tested the bias lately, but when I first did the install I had the rear locking up first until I dialed them back.

Dim headlights are typical on these cars. You really need to get the headlights to run off a relay instead of passing through the switch. Dave sells the headlight relay harness upgrade that is plug and play. MSA sells the same harness (supplied by Dave).

Cool story, but you can't tell if both lights are working by checking if they are shining in a grill of a car. I tried to do that using the headlights on my wife's Prius and one light will reflect off both. You really need to check them out.

No, I have a 240z.

I had no problem installing the JCI mount on my car with Bad Dog frame rails. It is a tight fit though. Not interference fit tight, but there is not a lot of room (if any) for play.

PLATA, I am trying to understand why you always post these types of threads. Look again. He has Goodridge heat insulatio/shielding around that particular line. I used the same stuff on my turbo swap for the oil drain line from the turbo to the pan since it passed by the exhaust downpipe, and my current LS1 swap uses it for the transmission cooler lines coming and going from the tranny. In Tony's words, he did it right. Stop trying to actively pick the car apart.