ktm

It's not horsepower that breaks things it's torque. Your RB might put out 600 hp but only 400 tq. Many of us are running that much torque in our LS1s (and old L28ETs).

I agree that a donor car is the best way to go. You live in redneck central so everyone with a mullet (90% of the state except Austin) either owns a Camaro or Mustang. I would clarify your statement about sourcing a donor for $2k unless they live where you live. Come out to southern California and see what you can get for $2k......Frank280zx got a donor F-body with a T56 and LT1 (1997) for $2,500. Notice I said LT1. Move up one letter in the alphabet and add $2k to that number.

Wow. A lot of......odd.....information in this thread. Clive, you got lucky with those F-bodys. I looked for a few months and basket cases out here were 4k minimum. I bought my engine and transmission off a reseller on Ebay for $3,200 shipped from Florida. The engine was from a 1998 Camaro SS, 75k miles, and was a complete pullout: complete LS1 , 4L60E, PCM, and harness. I had previously wired up my car for EFI with my old turbo setup, so modifying my auxiliary fuse box was easy and cheap. I had alread installed an Arizona Z-car aluminum radiator and had a Flex-a-lite 210 electric fan. That was around a $500 savings between those two. I re-did my fuel system (changed over from SS braided all the way back to SS hardline), Corvette FPR ($60), fittings (Russell pushlock for fuel rail and fittings for FPR - $150), JCI mounting kit ($600), JTR ceramic coated headers ($495), JTR CAI kit (~$75 IIRC), JTR steam vent tee ($33), K&N filter ($60) exhaust ($450), HP Tuners ($450), B&M Stealth Pro Ratchett shifter ($300). This is off the top of my head. As you can see I am over $5,500 in just parts. Add another $1,000 to account for the work I did for my old turbo setup that I could save. Parts I purchased that were not necessary and a couple unused: Transgo HD2 shift kit ($120 - not installed), B&M remote trans filter ($40 - not installed), TCI transmission pan with plug ($75 - installed), LS6 intake ($300 from LS1tech.com - installed), ported throttle body with 'typical' modifications ($60), B&M transmission cooler, SS braided lines and fittings ($200), misc. pretty pieces ($100)

Why? Are you building a motor that has squeezed out every last bit of horsepower that 3 4-in. diameter elbows will make a difference? Are you building a race-purpose car where you've shaved weight every where you could so you are now focusing on the minutia? Really, get a grip.

Rota Grid Offroads, 16x8 +10 shod with 245/50R16s. The front wheels have a 10mm spacer and the rears no spacer. I had to roll the fenders due to the tire size. A narrower tire with a smaller profile (tires and wheels at an inch larger than stock diameter) would probably have sufficient clearance.

Robin, honestly I would fabricate your own based on your own measurements. Not trying to be an ass, but I've found the MM plates to be just right on one side and not long enough on the other. If you make your own (which I intend to do) they'll be the correct length.

I used JTR's CAI kit and purchased a K&N cone filter. I did clearance the hole a bit to allow the piping to pass through.

Thanks. I go there periodically, but it was over 5 onths since I was there last I believe. Everytime I want to go something comes up on that Saturday that cannot be post-poned for whatever reason.....or so my wife says.

Found the issue. First, I was too far down the rabbit hole and admittedly testing the wrong circuit at the combo switch. The problem is that while the wiring at the combo switch for the rear brake lights/turn signals are W/R and W/B, the wiring changes to G/R and G/B at the lights themselves. Sooooooo, I kept testing the G/R and G/B at the switch. Second, the load issue was real. If I did not connect the harness at the drivers side light, the G/R wire in the harness would read +12v with the brakes depressed but would drop to 0 when connected to the light. After I woke up and realized my error above, I then tested the correct circuit at the combo switch and determined that it was, indeed, in the switch. I took the switch apart and inspected the contacts. I had previously taken the switch apart 2 years ago and cleaned the turn signal contacts but did not touch the brake contacts. I had forgotten how the brake circuit worked in the switch and taking it apart reminded me. While everything was in intimate contact, it appeared that there was some heavy oxidation on the contacts. I sprayed some Deoxit on both brake contacts and cleaned them up the best I could. After cleaning and reassembling the switch, the driver's side brake light now functions.

Ah, old age is catching up to me. I used the Spectre 2431 kit on my old turbo setup as the throttle body was located on the passenger side. When I swapped in my LS1, I forgot that I had to buy a different (most likely Lokar) cable but I re-used the fitting/connector from the Spectre kit (you can see it at the very top in this LINK. Modified from my post above: You do not need to drill out the stud nor do you need to bend the throttle pedal for the mechanical cable if you use the connector from the Spectre SS throttle cable from Autozone (above). It has the perfect connection for the S30 stud at the end of the throttle pedal. You need to cut out a small section of the fitting so that it snaps over the stem of the ball.

I've been diagnosing a brake light issue that recently came to light...... I finally managed to get my passenger side brake light working but the driver's side is still having issues. Turn signals, hazards, and tail lights work on both sides. The driver's side brake light will work if I apply power direclty from the battery. To clarify, I removed the rear panel and cut off both ends of the plug for the tail lights. I have spare connectors from Vintage Connections (from when I rewired my car) that I can use to reconstruct that connection. I also ran a ground wire from the light to the battery ground. I can do this since the battery is located in the rear of the car. I tested the voltage drop issue by cutting off the plugs as described above and exposing the bare wire on both (tail light side and harness side) wires (G/R). I attached my DVM to the harness side wire (where it read +12v) and then touched the tail light side wire to the harness side wire and watched the voltage drop to zero. What is confusing about the issue is that the turn signals work on both sides. The turn signals share the same circuit as the brakes. If both turn signals work and the passenger's side brake light works, why doesn't the driver's side? The tail lights were working fine for at least 2.5 years (the time since I rewired the car) and its only within the month that they could have gone out.

Cussed my car out for 2 days now. Came home from a Z gathering Saturday night to find out my brake lights weren't working (for who knows how long). I've been trouble-shooting the past 2 days and managed to get one brake light to work. Turn signals and hazards work though. Reverse lights worked Saturday night and did not work Sunday. I'll figure it out but am most likely going to wire up my tail lights to function like the Euro lights (brake and turn signals separate) to avoid having the brakes run through the combo switch though they'll still have to run through the hazard switch. Exactly. I installed my rebuilt engine and transmission into my car one time and saw that I forgot to install the rear main seal while the engine was out. I was even telling myself the day before, all night long, and the morning of the install not to forget the rear main seal!

Edit: See my post below.

I did not reroute my brake lines either in my 1972 240z.

which concussively resounded

I've been using a 280z liner in my 240z for over 5 years now. It is a very easy modification.

JTR sells a fitting specifically for the vent tube.

Thanks. I thought it may have been the caliper, but I did not see any signs of distress on the caliper (it is painted in red). Miles, I too am using the MM 240sx rear brake kit. The passenger side uses a much longer line and I was able to use the stock mounting on the driver side. Saying that, I am buying a longer line tomorrow and will relocate the hard point. I am trying to figure out the extreme suspension compression scenario though. No unplanned off-road excursions, but the roads around here leave a bit to be desired. Maybe a rather abrupt change in pavement could have lead to it.

I was bleeding my brakes last night after doing a bit of hardline re-routing and noticed the damage to the hardline/softline bracket on the rear drivers side line. Something hit the line HARD as it sheared the bracket off the rail as seen in the photos. I have no idea how this could have happened. Fortunately the ss brake line survived the impact but there is enough damage that I am picking up a new one tomorrow. Thoughts as to how this could have happened?

I just finished acquiring the necessary parts and materials to re-plumb the brake lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve and eliminate the bias switch. I also picked up everything I will need to make a spare tire well sub enclosure. This is going to be a fun week or two.

Preferred water pump for an L28ET? Easy, the LD28 pump that is being discussed in another thread.

I bent,yes BENT, 5 ARP studs on my old turbo build. I am not talking about a slight bend, they were all leaning over 30 or so degrees from vertical. How, do you ask, did I accomplish such a feat? I tried to rush a job, take a short cut. Instead of backing out the studs, I attempted to pull the head with exhaust manifold and turbo still attached. The head locked up on the studs due to the tight clearances and when I tried to lower the head (using my hoist), it bent the studs.

There's an '80s 911SC with an SBC that shows up once in a while to Cars and Coffee. That is the second time I saw that particular 911 with the LSx. One more shot of the 911 and two of the 914.

First, listen to John. Your car, as shown in the picture, is sitting too high because it is not fully loaed. When I first installed the 5020 springs in my car with the stock L24, life was good. As soon as I did my L28ET swap I ran into problems. I was crashing over bumps, etc. and thought that was normal. If I may be so bold - ditch the 240z springs. Trust me. After talking with another member at a meet one night, he recommneded that I switch to the 280z springs as he did. About 6 months later I finally bit the bullet and switched over to the 280z springs and it made a world of difference. He had an L28 setup in his car and switched over due to the incredibly harsh ride. My old L28ET setup was a nightmare much less the LS1 and 4L60E I now have.

Guess the engine...... The car was very well done. Right around the corner from it was a 914 with a 2.0L turbo charged Subaru boxer.