ktm

When I bought my regulator/filter from Ebay, it came with that fitting (I was specifically looking for that combo). I then bought the Russell quick connect to AN adapters separately from Summit Racing.

"There are no main power feeds required for this harness, just a single switched ignition power will switch a relay in the harness that in turn, supplies 12V power to all of the required engine sensors and the ECU."The PCM requires at least one (or 2, I cannot remember) constant hot source. You'll still have to make that fused connection yourself.

I would have no extra parts. I sell them off to help with the purchase of other Z-related goodies.

Keith, sorry to hear about your problems. The LS1 harness only needs around 8 wires connected to fire up, so the LS2 harness should not be (too) different. LS1tech has a great thread about swaps that contain links to PCM printouts, wiring diagrams, swap write-ups, etc. I must have printed out 50+ pages when I did my swap. I do not have my notes in front of me, but I can tell you that the O/B wire should be connected to +12v with a fuse. You want the fuse to pop before the PCM. You will find LS1tech much like Hybridz, they ask that you search first and ask questions later. I am cooking our New Years lunch today, but I'll try to look at my notes and supplement my response.

I drive 25,000 to 30,000 miles a year. I just changed the timing belt/water pump and had two new tires put on it as well. The clutch was going to need replacement as well as the other two tires. My wheels needed to be repaired (out of round due to potholes) as well. My company reimburses me for my car (fixed payment plus a reduced mileage componnent) but requires a car 5 years old or newer with less than 100,000 miles. If you do not qualify, you only get the mileage portion plus a 50% reduction in the fixed payment. Plus, I've driven over 220,000 miles in Los Angeles traffic with a manual transmission (including the WRX). I was about to shoot myself if I had to continue much longer. The market for used cars is insane and we got a great deal when I Carmax'd it. Sure, I could have sold it private party, but dealing with the tire kickers, dreamers, low ballers, etc. is a pain in the ass. It just made sense at this time. I bought a 2012 Madza 5 Grand Touring as its replacement. What it lacks in power it makes up in swagger. How can you argue with damn near 90 cu. ft. of storage capacity (with all the seats folded flat), up to 28 mpg, and it comfortably seats 6 people.

....and your Queensryche is in my Rachmaninoff! I recently burned my old Operation Mindcrime CD to MP3 after listening to a co-workers CD in his car. That is one damn good album, even today. Ben, I do not think people will judge you for your particular taste, at least not by me. I can appreciate the look, but its the attitude I see from the generation that endorses the look that bothers me. They see a well sorted out, powerful (swapped), properly functioning car as a POS compared to, say, Yuta's car. Who spent more time, more money, more sweat, more blood, on their car? Certainly not Yuta. He went for a look by simply slamming his car. I saw his car when he first debuted it at JCCS. It was, quite honestly, a POS. The only thing "unique" was that he was touching the grass blades. His interior was a joke and his engine bay horrific. Pictures of his suspenion fabrication gave many a fabricator the willies. Should we support such shoddy workmanship simply in the name of form?

I just sold my 2006 WRX limited (leather, heated seats, sun/moon roof) wagon. I bought it new with 25 miles in February 2007 and it had 118k when I sold it yesterday. Best car I've ever owned. The 2006/2007 WRX is the best years to have in my opinion.

I am torn on the subject. While some are taking it to extremes using questionable methods, others are putting thought into their setups. For instance, the pursuit of cheaper coil over solutions has yielded positive results (DC2 and Megans IIRC). As long as the discussions are based on technical merit they should be allowed. While some may disagree about a screwed up suspension geometry having no place here (hi Ron!), as long as the fabrication is safe, etc. then it leads to creative discussions and innovation.

No its not. An L28ET is a common swap; an LSx swap is still unique. Keep in mind that I had a "unique" L28ET swap. Quite honestly, if you are interested in power then the L28ET swap is not the way to go. You'll spend as much money making an L28ET produce reliable LSx power as you would simply doing an LSx swap.

Yes, yes it can, but nothing like an LS1. Climbing the torque curve is a rush, but you usually don't reach peak torque until 4000ish rpm; you have 80% or so of peak torque in an LS1 at damn near 2000 rpm. The car is very scary during simple low speed maneuvers. Turn right, apply too much throttle (anything more than 1/3) and the rear end wants to say Hi!. I had a rather nice L28ET setup pushing over 400 wheel lb-ft and 400 whp. I had a stock bottom end and head. However, the car was not very reliable at that power output simply due to (my) tuning issues. California 91 octane is detonation sensitive and I could never get the timing right for the street. On 100 octane the car was a (@#&(@*$(# blast to drive, but I wanted something a bit more.....reliable, streetable, etc. I swapped over to an LS1 this past summer and LOVE it. I am running the 4L60E, 3.70 rear gearing with an LSD, and tires that are 1-in. larger than stock. It's a stock LS1 save for a ported and polished TB, JTR intake, and LS6 intake manifold. My tires at BFG G-force (340 tread wear), 245/50/16. First gear is useless, second gear is useless and the car steps sideways on the very hard 1-2 shift if I am only partially on the peddle. Wider is not better. A stickier tire will solve the traction problems without going wider, but once I do that then it will reveal other weak points (half-shafts) in my drivetrain.

There is plenty of pressure. Plenty, at least on my LS1 setup. Both of my leaks, which were right at the collector on the passenger side, were blowing similar to you blowing on a spoonful of hot soup. Soapy water would work well for those troublesome leaks.

http://www.instructa...ing-your-hands/ You hook a shop vac up to your muffler and have it blow air.....you are then able to hear/feel the leak without worrying about burning your hands. I just did this trying to find a few leaks on my LS1 swap. The problem with the leaks was that they were around the headers/collectors/welds and you only have so long to find them before the pipes get too damn hot (think seconds). I hooked up my shop vac and within 10 seconds found my two leaks that were immediately upstream of the passenger side O2 (which would cause it to run rich) and verified the driver side was fine.

Find out what amperage the fans pull when turning on. This will always be higher than the operating amperage. Size your fuse for the amperage draw when they turn on otherwise you'll be popping fuses like mad. My Flex-a-lite 210s pull 20 amps when operating and near 30 amps when turning on, so I use a 30 amp fuse. I found this chart a long time ago when I was wiring up my car. I thought it was a PDF/image, but it was a Excel file. Quite honestly, you can't go wrong with 10 ga wire. Your Ebay fans probably draw no more than 20 amps when operating or 30 amps on startup and the length of wire will be less than 10 ft. Your relay will most likely not be sized for 10 ga, but you can make it fit though it will be tight.

Wiring up a single relay is VERY easy. The bottom of the relay will have 4 or 5 pins numbered: 85, 86, 87, 87A and 30. 87A is the center pin and is not used in this application. A 4 pin relay will not have an 87A pin. Pin 85 is ground. In this case, Pin 85 should connect to the LOW SPEED wire from the GM PCM. The PCM will pull to ground, thus energizing the relay. Pin 86 is ignition hot. The relay will not close until Pin 85 is pulled to ground by the PCM. Usually Pin 85 is wired to ground and the relay is energized by Pin 86 when fed ignition hot power. Pin 87 is the power TO the fan. Pin 30 is fused power FROM the battery. You do not have to do anything with the hi-speed wire on the PCM. It is not activated until 235 degrees (IIRC) or if the A/C is turned on.

Same here. I was going to buy the coils, but after 2 hours of searching "how to straighten...." I decided to buy the straight sticks as well.

I can't find them on my computer, but here they are at the top of the page in this thread: http://forums.hybrid...e/page__st__680

Considering that he is also running the 240z front bumper, the 280z is more like a 240z in appearance now.

I bought those exact mirrors from the seller in the Phillipines. I got mine within 2 weeks of ordering and I am right down the road in Diamond Bar. The price is hard to beat and helps offset the wait.

Michael wins. My personal DOH was repeatedly telling myself "do not forget to install the rear main seal" when finalizing my old turbo engine rebuild. I must have told myself that every day for 2 weeks. Come installation day, I get the engine and trans back in the car and am about ready to fill it with fluids. I run through my checklist again and see that the rear main seal check box is not checked. I thought, no, this can't be, maybe I forgot to check it off the list......only to then see it on the work bench NEXT to the checklist.

245/50R16

Ok. I thought I was imagining things. In Forza 3 I would always bully my way into the first corner or two to get into the lead and then leave them behind. Now I find that they slam the door shut on me, run into me, late brake, etc. and I wind up chasing them down for 1 to 2 laps on the tight and technical courses before I can pass them.

Below is from a PM I sent another member: Attached is a photo showing my power center for my swap. I have not gone back and cleaned up the wires since I completed the swap. I want(ed) to make sure everything was running smoothly before hiding wires. At the top of the photo you will see four 30 amp relays. Each relay controls different systems. The first relay on the left supplies power to the 8 circuit fuse block you can see in the middle of the picture. The relay is control by an ignition hot wire which makes the fuse block an ignition hot block. The relay supplies ignition hot power that the PCM uses and I must find another constant hot source for the PCM elsewhere. The second relay from the left controls my electric fans. I have only 1 speed fans (Flex-a-lite 210) thus need only one relay. I use the low speed wire from the PCM to control this relay. The 3rd relay controls the fuel pump. This relay is different than the others in that the PCM SUPPLIES +12v instead of pulling to ground. The last relay on the right is for the torque converter lockup (I am running a 4L60E). The fuse block is a simply 8 circuit block I picked up from an industrial electrical supply store for $15. The injectors, coils, PCM and sensors get ignition hot power from this block. At the extreme right of the photo you will see two green maxi fuses. These fuses are for the fuel pump and electric fan. The battery feeds the fuse block directly and then power is distributed from the fuse block to the respective relay.

My old Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR did not hold pressure either and others have experienced the same with that and other aftermarket FPRs. I would always cycle the car ON and off (but not start it) to build up pressure in the line before starting.

Editted for posterity. I was mistaken. I was thinking of the solid green wire. The blue wire is for the defroster as Beermanpete correctly stated.

While not Arizona Z Car springs, I am using the 280z Tokico springs on my 240z which have the same spring rate. The ride is definitely firm but not harsh. Harsh was the old 240z Tokico progressive springs which were coil bound. I kept thinking that my struts were going to blow out the strut towers at times. Are you running the QA1s now in the rear and the Arizona springs in the front? Have you considered that it is the rear spring that is the problem? You have 250 lb-in. springs in the rear coupled with 180 lb-in springs in the front.