ktm

I've been researching this issue over at LS1tech.com for a few hours and there is no definitive consensus. One group says go ahead and block them off while the other state that you should loop them. To confuse matters, some folks state that as long as your t-stat has holes around the perimeter you can block the ports off, otherwise loop them. Looping them is the easy, quick, and "correct" solution, however, it is not aesthetically pleasing. I was going to tap the two ports (1/2 npt and 3/8 npt) and use flush plugs. What has everyone here done? Experience?

Dudeboy, it sounds like the same area as shown by Dan's picture and my circled area. You can see the seam between the firewall and passenger area. I was wondering about that big honkin ECM plug. I have a few BFHs; as a matter of fact I had to use one on the JCI mount that "slips" into the driver's side tower. Yah, right. At least there is no slop there. I plan on using either a hydraulic jack or a scissor jack to push out some room....at least that is the plan until it doesn't work and then out come the hammers.

I installed JCI's engine mounts over the weekend and started preparing the transmission tunnel as well. JCI's engine mount for the passenger side has a bolt hole that lines up with the hole in the crossmember tower. I did not see in JCI's manual where this called to be bolted together like the driver's side. I re-read the manual a few times and searched Hybridz but to no avail. It seems to me that this should be bolted up or else the mount itself will flex. I started work on the transmission tunnel as well and took a few measurements to locate the area on the tunnel requiring clearance for the 4L60E. I know that it is the servo housing on the transmission the requires the tunnel to be clearanced. The area I've identified is shown in the picture below outlined by the red ellipse. Does this look correct? How far up from the bottom of the tunnel must be clearanced? I do not know the relative position of the trans bottom to the tunnel bottom. The archives talk about clearancing the tunnel but mainly focus on the T56; those threads that discuss the 4L60E make no mention of the area nor provide a picture showing. Thanks!

Tony, you told me about office location a while ago. I moved from south Orange County (Foothill Ranch) to Diamond Bar in April 2010. I opted for HP Tuners which is similar to Tunercat but has a more polished user interface. I can use HP Tuners to tune the car as well (fuel, spark, disable sensors - O2, VATs, EGR - ect.), read codes, and tune the 4L60E (i.e., shift points, min/max line pressure, etc.). It only makes sense to buy HPTuners (or another program) instead of sending the PCM in everytime you want to make a change. I just need to wire up an OBDII port which is easy - 4 wires and a connector. I have these parts coming in as well. I spent a couple hours last night removing the exhaust manifolds, A/C compressor, and cleaning the engine up. I picked up an LS6 intake as well and am dropping off a few parts for powder coating later today.

Ron, I am really looking forward to it. Thanks for the heads up on the fittings; I'll have to keep an eye on them.

Happy days are here! The engine was delivered with no apparent damage either. I got the JCI mounting kit in the mail yesterday and JTR's ceramic coated headers on Friday. I've been loving Summit loooong time lately as well. The Corvette fuel filter arrived along with the Russell push-on EFI AN adapters for the filter and rail, HP Tuners will arrive by Friday as will my B&M Stealth Proratchet shifter (yes I know you cannot manually shift the 4L60E), Transgo HD2 kit, B&M trans cooler, TCI finned trans pan with plug, and B&M remote trans filter. My stainless steel tubing will arrive Friday as well. I am replumbing my old SS braided lines to SS tubing. I plan on having the engine in the car by the end of June and running by the end of July.

On the other side of LA County in Diamond Bar.

I've been thinking about doing this swap for 2 to 3 years now but never really moved on it. After my little incident installing my worked head on my L28ET, I snapped. I could not believe how much money I had in that setup, enough to fully fund my LS1 swap. I just picked up a complete 1998 LS1 and 4L60E from a Camaro SS with 80k miles for $2500 + shipping. It comes with all sensors, PCM, maf, harness, etc., a complete drop out. JTR headers and JCI mounts & driveshaft will be ordered on Monday. I've been researching this swap for a while now and am rather excited. I hope to have it running by the end of July. Man, I should have done this 2 years ago.....

Whoa, I was going to say that black, sooty plugs are a sign of being way too rich. Engine off pressure of 97 kPa is 14.1 psi, nearly atmospheric which is correct. A reading of 85 kPa is very low for manifold vacuum. That is basically 2 in. Hg; I idled around 18 in. Hg on my setup.

Looks and sounds great! How do you like the Speedhut's?

They are updating the software. If you hit the Facebook link it gives you an update.

My fault. The first pump I fried due to low voltage. I was having constant issues with my alternators (dying on the road, driving on battery alone, etc.) and battery charge. Walbros are rather sensitive to voltage. The second replacement was an attempt to run down a very perplexing shut down problem. My car would run for 5 to 30 seconds and then immediately shut down. I checked both filters (pre and post pump), replaced the CAS, replaced the Walbro, and in the end it was a damn $5 relay controlling the LS1 coils. I bench flowed the 2nd Walbro and it was fine and is now a spare.

Isky does regrinds for around $120. You should buy their springs and retainers as well, though, and the total price will be around $400 when all is said and done. I've had great success with Valley Engine and Machine in Fountain Valley. They rebuilt my P90a head that is currently in my car while the P90 with my Isky cam and Slover port job sits on the shelf.

I've installed 3 Walbro's in my car. The first two were not loud at all, but the third one is a little loud. I can hear it when outside the car, but do not hear it inside the car. As for the FPR, the Aeromotives FPRs bleed down quickly after shut down. I even installed an Aeromotive check valve in after the Walbro and the FPR still quickly bled down. However, I've noticed no issues whatsoever in my logs and many others report the same experience.

Just confirming, the problem is fixed?

Do your hazards work? Unfortunately, the 240z turn signals are a bit of a cluster. They send 4 wires out, one to each corner, unlike the later 280z's which realized that the front and rear of each side could operate off the same wire. Have you checked the flasher? You stated that if you apply power to a wire, which wire exactly? You must apply power to the green wire that feeds the flasher. It then leaves the flasher as a white wire and goes to the turn signal stalk.

It's funny you post this now. I nearly posted the same tip as strotter about 6 weeks ago after hours of search frustration. The trick is to use the site:hybrid.org after your search words.

The bell housing needs to be machined and an adapter installed. There are two stickies in the L6 forum that discusses this swap.

Maybe I was unlucky, but my 5-speed was spitting metal chunks (not just shavings) with 330 lb-ft at the wheels. I've since upgraded to the Z32 tranny. The Z32 actually fits better in a 240z than a 280z. You need to extensively modify the transmission mounting points on a 280z, while for a 240z you simply build a different transmission mount that bolts to the stock location. Attached is a rather grainy picture of my mount, but you get the idea.

Tony, I hit O-rings and Things a long while back looking for them though I went there armed without the sufficient information I needed to purchase the correct set. I should have known better but I was close by and thought it was worth the 10 minute detour. Once I re-plumb my system to be alcohol compatible I'll pick up some viton o-rings from them.

The most bizarre incident I ran into was this past summer. We were flying back east to spend a week at my mother's beach house and were flying XXXXXX airline out of the Ontario, California airport. All is well and the family (wife and 5 year old daughter) and I board the plan and arrive in Houston for the next leg of the flight. As I start to board the next plane, the gate attendant stops me. Her: "Sir, how did you get here?" Me: "Um, I flew here on your airline, on that (and I point) plane over there." Her: "Sir, that is not possible. Our system shows you never left Ontario." Me: "Then how, pray tell, do you explain why I am standing in front of you having this rather inane conversation?" Her: "Sir, I need you to go the the desk over there and work with the agents....." At this time I waved my wife and daughter onto the plane, certain that it was a small issue. I get to the desk and they tell me that they have no idea how this happened. I told them that it was really not my problem, I don't care how this happened, it happened, get me on the plane. "Oh, we can't do that, it's an overbooked flight....." At this point I just about became unhinged, but I kept it as civil as I could because they were not being helpful or friendly. There were definitely the vindictive agents that would gladly watch you miss your plane. They also did not see why I could possibly be upset, as though this is something that routinely happens. To bring this to a close, they had to offer up a voucher, etc. to get someone to give up their seat so that I may join my wife and daughter. As they printed my boarding pass and handed it to me, I told them that they might want to make sure that whoever fucked up gets head pulled out of his ass.

Grant steering wheel. I cannot find the model for the life of me. I picked it up at a Datsun swap meet 4 years ago. The shift knob is a Nismo unit from MSA for the Z32 transmission.

Great minds thing alike. I was looking at the 996 gauges myself before saying f----- it and going with the Speedhuts. I had a similar shift knob in my old 2002 S4. Is that Matts (Aziza) old dash? Looks like it.

When I was running the Toyo 440 cc injectors I too was trying to find an o-ring source. I ultimately went to the local Toyota dealership and bought the O-rings from them.....ALL of them they had in stock (12). You might check with the local Toyo dealerships to start.

Confused which thread you were in?