ktm

I used to ride before I moved to China in 2000. When I was coming back to the States, I was all set on buying a motorcycle and my wife (whom I met over there) was encouraging me to do so. Upon arriving I started looking at bikes and had made up my mind to pick up another Ducati. My wife asked that I wait until a little bit until our finances stabilized. I dutifully complied because it made sense. About 6 months later she said I could buy the bike. When the time came, however, she really did not support the purchase. She'd had time to drive on the LA freeways and was terrified about the prospect of me on a motorcycle down here. We fought numerous times over the issue but in the end I acknowledged her point. She's since come back (a few years later) and said that I could buy a bike and would fully support my decision. She told me that it was up to me to decide if I wanted to buy it or not. She told me her concerns (about the drivers down here and the road conditions) and stated her requirements (full gear, not riding like an asshat, etc) and left it at that. I've thought about it long and hard and in the end I've decided to pass on a bike for a while. She was right. The drivers down here are insane and the road conditions eat bikes. However, she left the decision up to me after she presented me with her thoughts.

The fan is a Flex-a-lite 210 which has two 12-in. fans. I started a build-thread long after I completed 80% of the work. I have not updated it and it is rather dated. All of my pictures are in my gallery (clicky-clicky) though they are some what dated. A quick summary of the drive train build specs: F54 block bored over 1 mm, P90 head ported by Slover porting, Isky cam, LS1 coil on plugs, Siemens 757 cc/min injectors, Garrett T03/04E 50 trim turbo, Wolf V500 engine management system, FJO Racing stand-alone methanol injection control system with up to 1400 cc/min methanol injection, Z32 transmission, Z31 3.70 LSD, Toyota S12/w front disc brakes and 240sx rear disc brakes, Arizona Z-car aluminum radiator

A older picture. A few things have changed but it still generally looks like this.

Wow, they changed their product line. They used to only make 14 mm rails and 14 mm intakes. This is good news.

Lonewolf only makes 14mm fuel rails.

I owned one (2005 FX35 sport) for 2 years. They are great looking vehicles and we did not have any issues with ours for over 40,000 miles. However, that is all I can say about them. My wife's Prius has more room inside than the FX35. It is amazingly cramped for such a large vehicle. It is also a gas hog. We could only average 17 mpg at best.

Steve, now that is an idea! I need more practice dropping and installing transmissions. 10 times is not enough practice I say. I've been meaning to flush the coolant anyways.

Thanks. I was figuring as much. I was just wondering if someone had a neat trick that worked wonders, but in the end it is a matter of doing it right and doing it once.

Doobie-doobie-doo

I recently picked up my ported head from Slover's porting and had an Isky cam installed during the process. I plan on installing the head in late February to early March and am looking for tips/tricks/guidance to degreeing the cam while the engine is still in the car. I read BRAAP's post at the top of the forum regarding degreeing a cam, but things are a bit different with the engine in the car. I am really hoping that I do not have to remove the radiator and intercooler (yes, being lazy) as well as the crank pulley. So to those that have installed an aftermarket cam, how did you degree it in with the engine still in the car? Thanks.

Up to 3 years ago you could periodically find the rear drums on Ebay for $160 a piece. It is this reason that I decided to do the rear disc conversion. Add in a new drum cylinder on each side and you are at the price of the rear disc conversion.

Looks good. Why did you do this instead of opting for the 2-1/16 gauges? I used that diameter and was able to install them in the stock housings as well. I used the front metal piece with the bar cut out as the mounting point for the gauge.

Ain't gonna happen. Not if you want to make it TRULY smog legal. Now if you want to make the emissions cleaner, that is another matter. But as far as CARB's definition of smog legal you can forget it with a L31ET.

Last I saw this is why did you stick with the L series thread, not why did you switch from the L series.

Edit: Now I know why I was confused. I am thinking 240sx.....let me tell you how I confused a 240sx with a Subaru. I used to live right down the road from Gruppe-S in Lake Forest, California. They catered to the 240sx and WRX crowd at that time. I own a 2006 WRX as well as my Z. I would go there periodically for the WRX. I did buy the studs from them, however, for an S13 240sx. The S13 has a knurl diameter of 12.83. This confirms the OP's post. I am using these studs in my front hubs.

Steve, Just get a sensor that has a 0-5 volt output and you can calibrate the scale in the LMA-3. I used my Wolf EMS tach signal output. I would imagine that the LMA-3 can be hooked up a positive output from the coil but I am not certain. The Innovate forums as well as Google may help you there. I have used the accelerometers and formulas to back-calculate horsepower and torque for a given run.

I am running an LC-1 and LMA-3. The LMA-3 is great and it has, as you know, universal inputs. It has built in accelerometers (G-tech) that you can use or you use the inputs to log other parameters. I am/have logged (not all at once): methanol pressure, intake air temperature, EGT, knock sensor, AFR, RPM, and MAP. This is an image of my LMA-3 log using Logworks:

If I remember correctly, certain current Subaru models use the same thread pitch and knurl diameter as the S30s.

Arrrrrgh, I've been looking for center caps for my Grids and can't find them for the life of me! Nice looking setup stivva.

I guess I am at a loss why are you trying to use two sensors to achieve what just one will do. If you drill the sync hole in the CAS you will be able to run full sequential spark without the need of the VR sensor. Ron's done it numerous times, I've done it (Ron taught me), Hughdogz did it, and I did it for Markham. If you are still using the distributor, then you do not need the separate crank sensor. Ron is explaining it in Wolf terms with "Reference" and "Sync".

As rturbo said, pick one or two colors and run with that. Either side or directly opposite of the color wheel will work. The water pump pulley looks great.

An 83 L28ET? Are you sure you do not have hydraulic lifters?

They only need to be tight enough to press the manifold against the gasket hence the 8 ft-lb torque requirement. If you try to tighten them too much, you'll strip the threads in the head. This is why using studs for the exhaust manifold is preferred over bolts. Tighter is not necessarily better.

Exactly. In order to change the clutch you need to drop the transmission. While not hard, it is a royal PITA if the car is on jack stands. Spend the money now and you'll be thanking yourself later.

Ron, yes I did buy them directly from Speedhut. I have not had a single issue with any of my gauges. The wiring is stupid simple and the lighting wiring is quite honestly genius (you'll see what I mean). I checked my speedo (using the VSS sender) with two different GPS based speedos (navigation unit and my Droid with a speedo app) and it was dead on. The tach is very responsive as well. Forget about a rock steady tach. I really cannot think of anything I do not like about them (I've given it some thought). They are very responsive, Speedhut's customer service is responsive, shipping is fast, the gauges look great, etc.