ktm

Geez, I agree. I was referring to private sellers like those on the Hybridz forums. Commercial businesses such as CX Racing should have the fee naked into their overhead.

Tim, you can buy items directly from their website as well. As for buying through Ebay, sometimes you can arrange it to be paid as a "gift" if it is not an automated process. In other words, click to buy, exchange emails, etc.

.....not to be that guy, but why even triangulate on a street car? A simple bar would suffice on a true "street" car.

It's been a long while since I've added a photo of the car here. Again, she's changed a little bit.

@kroegarn and MattMatthewZ You have some very nice looking Z's there. Matt, I love the attention to detail and the engine bay is a thing of beauty.

I do the same. If the seller has an issue taking Paypal or asks that it be sent as a "gift", I'll just add the 3% to the bill.

Thank you all. I've been driving her around and all is well. The tires are a huge improvement. fyanrudger, look at post #29 for the photos: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120149-totaled-the-z-yesterday/page-2

.......that right there is a warning not to do business with them. If you pay as a GIFT, they are not charged a transaction fee. However, Paypal will take notice and your account can be suspended if you do it too often. Thanks for the heads up.

As some of you may remember, I was in an accident on Halloween day 2014. I thought I totaled the car, especially when I found out my wife changed the policy to liability only. The damage looked so much worse with the hood on, but I did not take any pictures at the time. I was focused on assessing the real damage once I got the body panels off. I have since fixed the car. I took it to a great frame shop who worked miracles. I then proceeded to do all the rest of the body work myself to include paint. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. The entire front clip is "new" save for the core support which the shop managed to save. All "new" fenders, buckets, valence, cowl, and inspection lids. I also decided to swap to a Seibon carbon fiber hood as well. I learned my lesson regarding tires too. I am now running Bridgestone Potenza RE-11s. Talk about night and day with regards to traction. Any way, I just wanted to share my happy moment.

Not that I don't believe you (but I don't ), but are you sure you are not using the JCI headers which have smaller primaries? I don't know of anyone who is using the JTRs and not having plugs touch the headers. I have used the MSD high temp adjustable plugs (two on the driver side touch) along with the high temp fabric boots and they still failed after 2000 miles. I've tried a few different sets of high temp plugs and the fabric boots without much success. Finally, I picked up a set of the stock aluminum shrouds and am using the LS2 (?) GTO plug wires. I've put around 8,000 miles on that setup without a single failure. You do have to dent one of the shrouds though.

I had an L24 for a few years, swapped it out for a built L28ET, and finally went LS1. Each one has their pros and cons. An L28ET sounds nothing like an N/A inline 6, which has an intoxicating buzz at 5000+ rpms. My LS1 sounds like my old L28ET at idle, but once on throttle there is no mistaking that there is a V8 under the hood. To each their own. This is HYBRIDZ, not Classiczcars.com (which is not a knock - they are MUCH more informative than this site when it comes to stock issues). The only thing stock in my car now is the shell. If you are worried about the purity of the Z, you are on the wrong site. Phantom, as much as I love the LSx series of motors (and Chevy V8s), the Ford V8 have ALWAYS sounded better. The current batch of Mustang's just sound so damn nasty (in a good way).

I can't recall if its a decay value that is used to control how fast the engine returns to the base idle speed or its in the fuel cutoff/overrun section (the decay value that is).

There is a TON of information out there. I highly recommend www.turbobuick.com for some good discussions on the subject. They are primarily GN guys but know their stuff.

Water/methanol injection is used to pull a significant amount of heat out of the process albeit it differently. Methanol evaporates much more quickly than water and is best used to cool the intake charge. I used to dump upwards of 1000 cc/min of methanol at full boost and my intake charge would be around 50 degrees. While some would reach the combustion chamber, it is not nearly as effective as water for in-cylinder temperature reduction. Water, on the other hand, has a much higher latent heat of evaporization and does not evaporate as quickly. However, it has a much greater potential to pull more heat out of the process. It primarily pulls heat out of the combustion chamber itself. The IC, while effective and better than nothing, is not nearly as "efficient" as removing heat as methanol/water. However, it is MUCH safer. Water and methanol injection are great......if you have fail safes.

I am in need of the male hood latch that connects to the hood for a 240z. Please PM me with the details and asking price shipped to 91765. Thanks Bo

I decided to do all the body work on the front end of my car after the accident. I must say that I did a damn good job all around. Saying that, the fenders and hood cowl were the first pieces I applied color to and while they look great, there is some orange peel. I just finished painting the sugar scoops, inspection lids and 3 piece lower valence. They came out PERFECT. Almost no orange peel. I did notice, though, that when measuring out the paint that I may have had too much activator/hardener (don't remember which). It is a single stage solid color with an activator and hardener at a ratio of 6:1:1. Any idea what may have helped lay it out so smooth? It was not my technique most likely. I figure it was due to one of the non-paint additives that helped it lay flat. Thanks.

No, and its not the point. It does appear to be setup for drifting if you look at the interior shot.

Thanks all.

I've decided that I'll install a Seibon carbon fiber hood on my car now that I am finishing up the body work. To those of you who purchased one, which reseller did you use? One Was it a non-Ebay vendor or did you purchase one from Ebay? I am looking for a "reputable" reseller. There is one in Covina which is 15 minutes from my house that I am considering, but would like input from those of you who purchased one on-line already. Thanks, Bo

Do yourself a favor and also go to LS1tech.com. They are a great resource for all things LS1 and have a fantastic repository of general LS1 swap information. Hybridz is great for Z-LS1 specific questions. All other questions are best left to LS1tech.com. FYI, the O2 sensors are heated. LS1tech.com has a lot of information about which ones to buy and the ones to avoid, issues with slow switching due to header installation, etc.

I had typed up a response but after doing some more searching I see that CX offers a somewhat complete kit including exhaust. What they do not apparently offer is a driveshaft, minor, but you'll still need one and that is around $250. I see that you've budgeted $1600 for their kit, but you still need to pay for shipping which will be around $100. Lastly, with their transmission mount configuration it appears that he exhaust will hang below the mount, thus eating up precious clear space. I can tell you that I periodically scrape my exhaust at its lowest point, which is on the passenger side right by where the tunnel enters the bay. The exhaust could not be tucked there and as such hangs a little lower (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107261-my-new-exhaust-pics-and-video-inside/) I am not trying to convince you otherwise now, just pointing out some items. Good luck with the installation and keep us informed!

I guess I am at a loss why people are looking elsewhere unless there is a significant cost savings. I don't understand the comment about a kit not having it all. Let's spell out what you get with the JCI kit: Proven installs across all S30s (240z, 260z and 280z). Install issues, are as trackzpeed said, due to a tire chassis not the kit. The transmission mount just fits between the rails on a 240z. The driver side engine mount uses the stock cradle and as such the cradle needs to be flawless. The JCI kit comes with whatever you want: trans mount, engine mount, radiator, headers (yes, they have headers), driveshaft, etc. Do yourself a favor and actually LOOK at the order list (http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/order-sheet.htm)

You'll need to clearance the tunnel on the passenger side where the tunnel enters the engine bay. Other than that it fits fine. I am using JCI's mount as well and there are no issues to date. The T56 uses the same style mount. I believe there are people using or going to use the 4L80E as it is stouter, but if you rebuild/upgrade the 60E you should be fine. You'll need to do that anyway regardless of the transmission if you want paddle shifts. I have JTR shorties as well, feeding 2-1/2 pipes to a y-pipe and into a 3-in. I am using a modified stock gas tank so that was my only real option. I like the stock look and did not want a fuel cell. My shifter is a B&M Stealth Pro ratchet shifter. I created a steel cradle that dropped the shifter into the tunnel right about the tail housing of the transmission.

The pix referenced are mine. I was looking at the TCI paddle shift setup as well at one time, but the transmission (especially the 60E) really needs to be beefed up to handle the downshifts. The upshifts are fine, it is the downshifts that really put a strain on the units. Still, it would be nice.....

Ah, I must have missed that part where they said it would work on a 240z. Thanks.