ktm

Sorry, I had the 240mm and not the 225mm.

I had this setup in my turbo L6 setup that was pushing close to 400 tq to the wheels. I also had a Fidanza LW flywheel. I had no problems with the setup and it was fairly easy to drive. Saying that, the heavy duty PP along with their upgraded street disk made engagement an on-off affair with only a little slip available.

Keith, what is the timing of your trip? I live in So Cal and have lived in the OC as well. Drop me a PM with a few more details for when you'll be in LA/OC proper if you'd like.

.....and after 80+ years it has not changed! Always, ALWAYS start with the simple stuff.

I read the title and was hoping it was trolling for clicks......until I read everything. I am stunned, sick, and speechless. I met John quite a number of times at various shows and gatherings here in So Cal. He did work on my car back when he owned Beta Motorsports. He was witty, gregarious, helpful, kind, a true gentleman......****......

Replacing your half-shafts with CV's is not just a bolt in affair on S30s. You still need adapters. I suggest researching this site for more information on the conversion. A vendor, Checkered Joe, sells the adapters for a couple different CVs conversions if I remember correctly. Sadly, another vendor, Wolf Creek Racing, passed away a couple years ago, though I believe that Checkered Joe is acquiring the rights to his adapters.

Why are you at 23.1"? Stock rolling diameter is 24.7". You have 15x9's, there are plenty of tires that will get you up to 25-in., you are just going to have to have some sidewall. Sounds like you are running a stretched setup (23.1" rolling diameter). 215 60 R15s puts you are 25.1 and there are 22 tires list on Tire Rack.

Your best bet is to Google Burdundy OEM paint colors and chose from there. BMW has some nice ones, as does Lexus/Toyota, Acura, etc, though you will need the model year as well. Also expand your color palette. What you call burgundy, another OEM may call it a shade of red like Garnet Red.

Savage42, I was partially mistaken regarding Deka and East Penn. I was typing in shorthand without going into those specifics. I knew East Penn made the batteries; hell, going to East Penn's website (www.eastpennmanufacturing.com) shows a Deka on the home page, but you clearly know more about battery manufacturers than I. Deka does not make batteries, correct, but they are a division of East Penn who does (correct?).....now, who makes the Braille battery? I do not see where you provide that information. I don't see where you are getting more cranking power. I am ignorant in the matter, but if a Braille is listed at 400 CCA and a DEKA at 400 CCA, are they not the same? Also, I understand where you are coming from, but I had my old Deka ETX-30L for 4 years before it finally failed due to too many deep discharges (forgetting that I put the car in accessory mode when doing diagnostics). My current Deka ETX-30L is 1 year old (after I killed the old one) and it never has an issue. Yes, I need to make sure to top it off with my Schumacher charger if I let the car sit for more than 2 weeks, but it always works for me.

You can go even wider than mine if you have coil overs. There was a member (Clifton) who had 275's without flares, but it requires the right combination of tire and wheel.

Type (or copy and paste) the following into Google: seat swap site:hybridz.org

My build is nearly identical: LS1, 4L60E, R200 3.70 CLSD. I have 16x8 wheels with 245/40 Bridgestone Potenza RE-11s. They are a great street tire, especially when warmed up. First generally spins if you really get on it from a stop, but then it hooks in second with just a chirp. My old tires would spin in 1st, 2nd, and the beginning of third.

Thank you for the response. I figured more pounding on the tunnel was required. My driver side is fine, its just the passenger side. I can still drop the pan, though, to service the filter. I am thinking about going with an oval exhaust to get some more clearance.

I don't know how I missed this. How on earth did you get the clearance for the exhaust? What diameter are you using from the headers? I used 2.5-in. and the passenger side drops fairly low due to clearance issues between the 4L60E and the tunnel.

Presets will not be accurate. Hopefully your calibration will go better than mine, as I can never get mine to read correctly between 3/4 and 1/4 of a tank. When I fill up it will read full; when I know I am low (say around 1/4 or less) it will read correctly. In between? Anywhere from 3/4 to 1/4 on any given day. You can easily remove the sending unit, but you will want to make sure that you have less than 1/2 tank of gas, otherwise you risk giving yourself a nice bath.

I did not have any issues removing my rheostat as it is located on the bottom of the dash. Granted, I was lying on my back with my head down by the gas pedal and using the steering wheel to pull myself up in order to see things, but where there is a will there is a way. If it is just one gauge that is dim, then that would point to a bad bulb. If all of your lights are dim, however, that is related to either the rheostat or the fuse panel. Have you tried cleaning the contacts in the fuse block?

It does sound like the rheostat is either very dirty or just about had it. You can remove the rheostat and just jumper the two wires together to test the circuit.

Yes, the 240z transmissions mounts are different than the 280z. I cannot speak for the 260z though.

I just saw the questions. I do not think that the spacer orientation matters. I tried to match up ends on the spacer though. An order includes both sides plus the T/C rods.

I've been calling Accurate Alignment in Orange over the past few days but they are not returning the calls. I know they used to be highly recommended, but I understand that he original owner sold the business and I do not know if they are as good as they once were. I've heard about Dave's Frame & Alignment in HB and am thinking about going there. Short of that, I do not know of anyone else in the area. I've installed the T3 GTX2 arms and T/C rods and need a full alignment and will pay (within reason) what it takes. Can anyone recommend an alignment shop in the OC area or support Dave's Frame in HB? Thank you, Bo

DEI makes the heat socks. Just Google "DEI plug wire socks". I was torn between JCI an JTR, but opted for the JTR primarily due to the larger primaries. I was going to buy a header and did not want to limit myself at the time. Now that I've found a solution with the heat shields, I am happy I went with the JTR (Sanderson) headers, but if I were to do it again knowing where I am today, I probably would have gone with the JCI. I also would change out the damn exhaust flange for a V-band or ball setup. Changing those damn gaskets majorly sucks.

....even for a regular build there are a shit load of those $20+ items that kills a budget. Hell, a Goodridge -6AN 180 degree fitting is around $45 alone. Amazing attention to detail and work. I love how some in the community have rallied around this build and are offering their support and services. I can't wait (I am sure less so than you, Derek) for first start!

Just closing out my problem. I Road Force balanced my wheels and re-checked my hubs. My hubs were a little loose and the wheels benefited from the Road Force balancing. The steering wheel has a slight vibration/shimmy now, nothing like it was before. I would say that most of my shimmy was due to my hubs, but after driving the car having fixed that but before the Road Force balancing, the RF balancing took care of the rest (subjective 70/30 split).

My LS1 swap likes to chew through the header collector gaskets. The first gasket that was installed at the exhaust shop was a typical composite gasket. It lasted all of 1000 miles before burning through. I then installed a solid aluminum gasket on both collectors and they only lasted 6000 miles. The pictures below show the gaskets after I took them off the car. The second image shows the two gaskets overlaying each other and the distortion is identical, eventhough they "failed" 180 degrees apart. In other words, one gasket failed facing the radiator core and the other facing the rear of the car. Does anyone else have this issue? It's not hard to change them out, only a PITA due to the tight confines and the bolts siezing due to the heat.

If it makes you feel any better, I too am trying to track down a nasty shimmy at 45+ mph. I already replaced both ball joints, and then those were replaced with the T3 GTX2 control arms, checked the steering rack, outer tie rods, I have new front discs, wheels have been re-balanced twice, no play in the hub, etc. It is driving me nuts. The only thing that may still be a possibility is the wheel seating itself. I have Rota Grid Off Roads which are hub centric and our cars use lug centric wheels. I try my best to make sure the wheels are "centered" while installing the acorn lug nuts by incrementally tightening each one before really tightening them prior to dropping the car. It could be that I am not getting it truly centered. This could be your problem as well.