ktm

Ron comes up with the suggestions and I implement them. He suggested I look into using a Ford IAC as they are PWM controlled. I hit the JY today and pulled a few IAC valves from the Duratec V6 found in the newer Ford Taurus. You want the Duratec V6 valves as the bores are 5/8-in. The 4-cylinder bores at 1/2-in. (I pulled one for measurement sakes). I connected the IAC valve up to Wolf and successfully got it working. It idled perfectly at 1200 rpm immediately upon startup. The issue I am fighting at the moment is getting it to drop back down once it is warmed up. I am sure I am missing some settings someplace, but I am about 75% of the way there. I'll post another write-up when I get it working 100%.

I don't know where you are getting driveshafts made for $100, and quite frankly I would not want to buy a $100 driveshaft. $300 is typical for a new driveshaft. I paid $275 for a "stock" replacement driveshaft for a 1975 280z and it came with serviceable u-joints (zerk fittings).

It all depends on your car. You can not run them down the rail on a 240z. The rail is not that deep and it ends mid-pan. I ran mine in the trans tunnel, but on the driver side (used braided SS hose and not a hardline).

Is this the self-adjusting component of the slave cylinder? What is the purpose behind the internal spring? If you have an adjustable slave rod with an external spring, can the internal spring be removed? Finally, if the spring pre-loads the T/O bearing against the PP fingers, is this not a "bad" thing? Thanks.

Someone else who "gets it". A schedule is just an estimate, based on the circumstances at the time. Fuel and commodity (you know, steel, aluminum, etc.) prices have sky rocketed since this group buy initiated. Shipping costs are increasing almost daily. This run of wheels is a small production run and as such, will take a back seat to larger runs. Chris is doing an outstanding job to date.

Eric, it was great running into tonight on the road. I'll be watching what you decide to do with interest. For the others, Rat Fink and I ran into each other on the road earlier tonight. A quick little exchange of horsepower display and we pulled off to the side and BS'd for close to 2 hours.

I bought them from Rudypoochris, but from what I understand, the 16x8 +10s were a group buy/custom order by the 240sx folks.

MONZTER, you got it. It is Santiago Canyon Road right down from where MSA holds their show, the straightaway where you can pass people. The suspension setup is just Tokico HP blue shocks and their springs. Nothing fancy.

The wheels are Rota Grids, 16x8.

Please read the following link first if you have not done this swap: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115550 It is the detailed write-up by Hizandherz on how to install an AC Delco/GM alternator si series (10si and 12si). The modification is very straight forward and only requires modifying the lower alternator mount. In the thread, Nigel brought up the CS144 alternator which has the ability to put out 95 amps at 2000 rpm (alternator RPM) while the 12si only puts our 50 amps. I've been having idle voltage issues with my 12si and it is very evident when the fan kicks on. The idle drops, gets a bit rough, surges, etc., until the fan turns off. Load it up at idle with a fan, lights, and aftermarket stereo and you get the idea. So I decided to jump right on in and try to get the CS144 to work. Following is a write-up that follows Hizandherz if you want a CS144 instead of a 12si. The CS144 is available on 1992 to 1996 Cadillac Devilles (any Caddy with the Northstar), so if you go to Autozone, ask for one from a 1994 (to play it safe) Deville. Below are pictures of the 12si and CS144 side by side. Dimensionally they are not much different, but the CS144 is a bit deeper and slightly larger in diameter than the 12si. The bottom mounting tab is dimensionally the same between the alternators, but the top mounting tab on the CS144 is slightly thicker than that of the 12si. Additionally, the upper mounting tab of the CS144 is threaded for M10x1.5. This will require modifying the stock alternator bracket to allow for an M10 bolt. All you have to do here is trim the upper mounting tab to the same dimension of the 12si tab. 12si tab - 5/8-in. thick CS144 tab - 3/4-in. thick. The black mark is my cutting mark. Finished cutting. Next, you will need to switch out the serpentine pulley for the L28 v-groove pulley. Finally, you will have to modify the stock alternator bracket. The slot needs to be widened as mentioned above to fit an M10 bolt, but it also need to be lengthened a bit to allow for a slightly longer belt. You can not use the stock belt as it will be too short and the alternator housing will not clear. I used a Duralast 17360 belt with dimensions of 1.3 cm by 91.5 cm. Now for the electrical modifications. Never fear, these are easy. To make it stupid simple, go to Napa and get part number EC82. It is an electrical connector that is made to convert si alternator harnesses to CS alternators. It has two connectors, one on either end as shown below. The yellow wire is the exciter and the red is the battery sense. The yellow wire has a resistor attached because the Devilles had a charge light that had resistance to drop the voltage. Simply attach your wires to the new subharness and you are done! I have noticed that I now charge around 13.1 to 13.3 volts at idle, a significant jump for me. I have yet to fully test it, but this should help out considerably.

John, it's a half dash cap and I am using 280z gauges as well. The PO put the cap on and did not completely remove all of the old splits as can be seen above the glove box area.

Both sides have a small gap. The passenger side is more pronounced than the driver side because the hatch needs a slight alignment.

I washed the car yesterday for the first time since March and took photos of it as well. The folks over at Zcar.com seemed to really like the "twilight zone" photo quite a bit. The pictures came out really well, especially for a digital (no SLR) camera.

I have had great success with: Challenger madkaw Super Dan (x2) Ron Tyler James Thagard (until the turbo puked) Rudypoochris 280zforce Justinolson