ktm

Except for 1975. Check the differential (second one from the top) sticky at the top of the page for my photos showing the single year that the differential flange was different.

Boost leak? Have you checked all your connections to make sure they are tight? What waste gate actuator are you using? What is set for (15 psi)? Are you using a boost controller if the waste gate actuator is set for lower than your maximum boost? How secure is your WG actuator bracket? If it is a bit loose, the exhaust pressure on the WG puck can cause it to crack open. Finally, with AFRs that rich your spool is hurting as well. Turbo's primary spool mechanism is heat. Per "How to Tune Engine Management Systems" the author sites Corky Bell as stating that up to 70% of the energy to spin the turbine comes from the heat differential between the exhaust manifold and the turbine exit. With AFRs that rich, your EGTs are probably quite low and this in turn affects your turbo spool.

Mark has an S30 (1977 280z), not an S130.

Jeff, try extending the tail pipe past the rear bumper. The aerodynamics of the Z create a low pressure area right behind the car and the exhaust is trapped in this area. Other things you can do is to check the condition of your tail light gaskets, rear hatch gasket, vapor tank and fuel vapor hoses gaskets, etc. in the rear of the car. Check your rear hatch striker and make sure that the hatch is pressing down all around the gasket. Check your floor pan grommets/plugs as well. This topic has been extensively discussed over at http://www.classiczcars.com

SSR/Volk Fins? There was a car at MSA 2008 that was running a set of polished SSR/Volk Fins.

There is no reason to go overboard. I've blown three head gaskets. Every single gasket showed detonation on 5 and 6; cylinders 1, 2 and 3 were perfectly fine. Read the thread again through it's entirety. The real issue is #5 and #6. To answer your question, you could do exactly what you described, but why do it unless you are running a setup that is going to be turning lots of revs all the time. For a street setup, making sure your coolant system is holding pressure, running distilled water with Water Wetter, keeping the coolant topped up, keeping air out of your system, etc. will be fine.

Don't forget I've been running this setup for a couple months now and I can atest that my engine is running cooler.

I would go LS1 or LS2 personally. I have an L28ET setup pushing an estimated 410 wheel ft-lbs. Stock head, stock block, T03/04E 50 trim, methanol injection, aftermarket EMS, stock N42 intake. Your stated power for the stroker is incorrect, especially for the money you cited. Saying that, the LS1/LS2 make great power out of the box, aftermarket part availability exceeds everything on your list, reliable, not any heavier than an L28 or RB25, and safe to tune. When pushing for big power via forced-induction, you are running at the ragged edge. Tuning is more important than anything. Lean out at high boost just once and you can blow a head gasket or worse. In retrospect I wish I would have gone LS1/LS2 as I have more money in my setup than such a swap would have cost. my z has an rb26dett decked to the max i have a ton of money in it Your profile says its N/A and stock.

Pete, that is very odd that you experienced boost creep. I have no problem whatsoever hold 22 psi all the way to redline using the stock wastegate that came with my Garrett T03/04E 50 trim Stage 3. I hit full boost (22 psi) by 3200 rpms as well.

Knowing my luck that would have been me..... That is really sad to hear. I hope that there were enough witnesses that the Tacoma driver takes it up the a**.

Wow, old post from the dead. Check the date guys! I intend to port my manifold this fall. Next spring I will have my spare P90 ported by Rebello. Power is addicting! I just picked up a set of 72 lb/hr injectors and will be procuring another 700 cc/min (for a total of 1400) methanol injector. Tony, I would have gone today but I had prior plans in San Diego.

I like the speedo and tach.

Ishino, as I understand, is the OEM supplier for many Japanese manufacturers. Autohaus AZ is a GREAT place for an Ishino gasket kit (complete kit: head gasket, intake gasket, etc., etc.) and it costs around $70. http://www.autohausaz.com

A filter before the pump inlet should solve that problem. However, you'll lean out from starvation and it only takes once under boost.

From How to Tune Engine Management Systems, rich best torque is around 11.7, mean best torque is around 12.2, and lean best is around 12.7.

I am surprised you need to much fuel. I am running a single 700 cc/min FJO racing methanol injector and 6 503 cc/min (440s flow tested at 503) fuel injectors. I dynoed 390 ft-lbs to the wheels a month ago. I believe I am now over 410 ft-lbs since I have cleared up many of the issues I had that day. My accelerometer on my LMA-3 showed a 30 ft-lb increase over the same stretch of road with similar conditions. I am now fuel limited though, both my fuel injectors and my methanol injector. I am going to add an additional methanol injector in a month or so, which will help me reduce my DC's on my primary injectors. Edit: This thread and Timz comments in other threads got me investigating my fuel systems compatibility with E85. I am running a teflon lined hose for my fuel system, A1000-6 FPR, Walbro pump, and a Pallnet fuel rail. Of all these components, only the rail is not compatible. My fuel tank pickup is stainless steel and so is the return (my tank was modified). Hmmmm.......

....while I was eating lunch in Huntington Beach today. I guess they were on their way to San Diego (which is their next scheduled stop on August 10). They were a convertible Ferrari, Lamborghini Gallardo, Volkswagen R32, and a Porsche GT3 (I think). No camera, but all in all rather cool.

I was nailed in Illinois on my way back to college in Indiana in 1992 by a Cessna. It was circling over a stretch of interstate with a small incline. On the backside of the incline were 10 state troopers, each with 1 to 2 cars pulled up in front of them. The troopers would stand on the shoulder and point at you as you came down the hill. I was not the first nor last person to be pulled over. Talk about shooting fishin the barrell! Since that day I routinely scan the skies while blasting across the desert.

The only thing that drags on my 3" exhaust is the exhaust flange where my DP bolts to the exhaust under the car. My DP extends to the back of the trans and where I have a triangular flange. The bottom of the flange has some marks from speed bumps that I took too fast.

Sidwell, I work right down the street from McFadden-Dale on Glassell. They are my Mecca when it comes to hardware. 90% of the replacement hardware on my car came from them. Thanks for the tip though!

Nigel, the bracket is slightly angled at this time and a few washers/spacers would be good to keep it in alignment. Rememember, though, that the bottom of the alternator is securely fastened to the lower alternator mount which has been modified for the CS/Si series alternators. It is the lower alternator mount that dictates the alignment, not the upper. The upper mount is for belt tensioning more than anything. essdeezee, not that I am aware of. I ran the 12si for a while without issues.

People said the same thing about cable television 30 years ago..... Once you experience satellite radio, you never go back.

Why even bother with an antenna? Between CDs, auxiliary inputs on head decks for MP3 players, and satellite radio, radio is dead.

www.stealthmodeperformance.com has -3 AN SS braided hose, a fitting that has 1/8-bspt male, 1-8/bspt female for the pressure sender, and 2 1/8-npt female ports, -3 AN to 1/8-NPT fitting, etc. I am running that setup on my car.

My 440s were flow tested at 503 cc/min and I am at 53 psi base pressure. My DC's are around 85% to 90% at 20 psi and 5500+ rpm.