ktm

I purchased the car in March 2006 after looking for a clean example that I would not have regrets about modifying. I found the car advertised in the San Diego Craigslist and I purchased her for $4000. She was nearly stock, but, as I came to find out later, had already undergone a automatic to manual transmission swap.

I am using the Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR.

I am using the same pump. Just be aware that Walbro's are very sensitive to voltage. I burned one out due to low voltage, and the flow rate really drops off.

Optical illusion. The center hub is fairly thick. My +10 Grids look like +30ish wheels, but the center hub is nearly 2 inches thick (from memory).

Mark, feel free to give me a call anytime - it's never stopped Hugh. Tuning is an ever evolving process when street tuning. I am STILL tuning my car and I've got well over 30 logs. Logworks in conjunction with Wolf is a great combination.

Sheesh, beginning to think that I am chopped liva'....

Tim, thank you for the comments. This is not the final solution and is still a work in progress. The loop you are referring to had me concerned for the same reaons you mentioned. I am looking at ways to reduce the height of the loop. As you rightly said, it is all about pressure differentials. The fire sleeve for #5 is a good suggestion.

Who did you wind up using?

Trust me, it is just A LOT easier to simply convert your clock to modern quartz movement. I did the conversion in about an hour. I have to use a AA battery to power my clock, but you eliminate the old system.

The turbo coolant return goes to the water pump inlet via the stock bypass hardline. If you look at picture 4, notice the braided hose to the left of the distributor? That is the turbo return feed. It attaches to the bypass hardline when then conveys the coolant to the water pump inlet shown in picture 3. The rear of the head is plugged.

Ok. Word of advice, do not take someone elses map and think that it is 100% correct for your application. You WILL need to tune it for your application. There are so many little variations that can have minor, yet significant, impacts that using a fellow enthusiasts map is great for startup, but I would not go running around on it thinking you are done. It may be driveable and a good starting point, but each engine is a little different. Different fuel pressures, VEs, fuel pump voltage, injectors, injector flows (for example, my 7MGTE 440 cc/min injectors actually flowed at 503 cc/min at 43.5 psi), fuel grade differences, etc., etc., etc.

While I do not have RB/RB-R, I do have 16x8 +10 Rota Grids. I am running 245/50s BFG G-force. Clearance is an issue. I should mention that I have the Tokico HP blue shock and spring setup. I am not running spacers in the rear, bit I have trimmed the spring perches and rolled my fenders. I am running 10 mm spacers in the front and had to go with longer studs, as well as trim my perches just a tad. The 245s stick out behind the wheel rim and contact the spring perch. I also had to trim the hell out of the stock valence (I am running a Bre spook).