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bjhines, I was looking for a reverse threaded jam nut for the other side, but could not find one at Home Depot. I wanted to use it for exactly what you mentioned, taking out the slop. Still, it is a nice tight fit but a second jam nut would be recommended.

.....as in $1.51 cheap. I needed to extend my upper alternator bracket after I did the CS144 alternator swap. My belt was just a bit too long and constantly slipping, even after I wallowed out the stock bracket. I hit Home Depot looking for a turn buckle and found exactly what I wanted. It is a 3/8"x9-5/8" eye/eye plated turn buckle. Grab a 3/8"-16 nut for a jam nut and you are set. Installation took 3 minutes and now I can adjust my alternator with ease. I plan on painting the piece to match the engine bay, but so far it is working like a charm and looks good too.

The Wolf V500 is a full sequential system as well, and I have my car setup to run both sequential injection and ignition. I actually use the sequential setup to pull timing in #5 and #6 as a measure to reduce detonation in those cylinders and I was contemplating adding a little more fuel to help with cooling. It is not overly complex to wire up a sequential system if your EMS can support it. However, unless you are trying to eek out every last horsepower out of an engine, there really is no performance difference between the two setups.

Phil, I am fairly certain that most of the I obtained clips are from 7MGEs and not the turbo models and they fit my injectors. Maybe I got lucky. My injectors were flow tested at 503 cc/min as well so they were not the N/A injectors. I know that the Camry and Corolla clips will not work as the tabs are offset incorrectly.

That is an incorrect statement. Your injectors have everything to do with how much booost you can run. More boost = more air = more fuel. Duty cycle is simply a calculation of how long the injector is open relative to one complete cycle (720 degrees) of engine revolution. The injector size determines how much fuel is supplied for a given injector pulse width. The "duty cycle" limitation of an injector is because of the injector size, which directly affects how much boost you can run.

I have around 30 7MGTE clips in a drawer in my garage. I had trouble finding them like everyone else, so whenever I saw a 7MGE in the junkyard, I snatched the clips. You can use the Corolla clips like Gabe said, but you need to grind off the two little tabs on the injectors.

Great titles! I just passed over this thread because my car was always eating a new, random part every 2 weeks which prompted me to spend hours trouble-shooting the cause. I should have read this sooner during the darker hours.

I am making Phil's numbers on a stock block, head and intake as well at 21 psi (plus 25% methanol replacing primary fuel). It is all about the tuning. As a matter of fact, I have a feeling I am up over 410 ft-lbs now after I found a small boost leak, fixed my boost bleed-off problem, added in some more timing (left 5+++ on the table), and retuned. It feels noticeably quicker, as in holy **** this thing is going to kill me! I hit 20 psi by 3300 rpm and hold it to redline now. The plan is to hit 22 psi and then add in some more boost past peak torque up to 25 psi by redline, or maybe just do 20 and up to 23 by redline. I am going to hit the dyno as soon as I resolve my clutch disengagement issue next week.....I hope or I am selling the damn thing!

Engine: L28ET with stock internals; P90a head; stock head gasket; N42 intake; 240sx 60mm throttle body Turbocharger System: Garrett T3/T04E 50 trim w/ .63 a/r turbine housing, ceramic coated turbine housing, water cooled, 360 degree thrust bearing; 24x12x3 I/C with 2.5-in. mandrel bent aluminum piping Fuel Injection: Wolf V500 ECU, 440cc Supra injectors flow tested at 503 cc/min, Pallnet fuel rail, Walbro fuel pump; Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR; modified 240z fuel tank; braided -6 SS fuel lines from tank to engine; FJO Racing 700 cc/min methanol high-speed injector; FJO Racing pressure sender; FJO Racing 120 psi methanol pump Exhaust System: 3" custom mandrel bent downpipe and exhaust to a Borla XR-1 straight-through muffler Boost: 20 psi by 3300 rpm, presently working out boost drop off due to wastegate creep. Plans are 22 psi through peak torque, with boost increasing to 25 psi after peak torque to flatten torque curve HP: Last dyno run was 388 wheel ft-lbs and 326 whp. Timing was retarded too much, AFRs too rich and slight hesitation encountered, boost bled off to 15 psi by 5000 rpm (wastegate creep - going to spring the actuator arm). I am fully expecting over 410 ft-lbs and 350 hp next dyno session.

I have a full 3-in. mandrel bent exhaust to a single Borla XR-1 muffler as well. I am rather used to it. It does not drone at highway speeds, but you can definitely hear it. At WOT it sounds utterly amazing.

There is a bit more noise in the cabin, but that is do more to the polyurethane mount than the actual differential mount itself.

Afshin, I am injecting approximately 20% methanol. You base the percentage off of your initial fuel map before methanol injection. What you will find is that you will need to PULL fuel as you will be running too rich. Right now I have pulled 15% of my primary fuel and I am still a bit too rich. I am not recalculating my methanol percentages though. I left them alone and pull primary fuel. You can calculate how much methanol to inject based off your fuel map. The calculations are mass based, not volume based.

Sorry about that Matt. I did not see you mention Autometer or Summit already. I have been looking for the same gauges myself and have contemplated an IS300 cluster swap. I like sweep gauges over digital because you do not have to look directly at them to gleem information. The relative position of the needle picked up by your peripheral vision is usually sufficient.

Thank you for the clarification. I was reading up on ethanol as a fuel source, for both primary and secondary applications and never really researched E85. I am by no means an expert, but based on the hours of reading I have done regarding fuel sources for secondary injection, I have come to the following conclusions. The chemical properties of ethanol and methanol are a bit different, and one will see that methanol has a higher latent heat of evaporatization (able to absorb more heat), higher octane (115 versus 119), cools the intake charge more (when secondary injecting), burns slower, burns cooler, has a lower stoich (more fuel required), etc. All of the above leads to more power over ethanol when tuned for it. E85 and ethanol are great though. I can see my own reasons for converting to E85 for one of the reasons you mentioned, no secondary tank. Saying that, the secondary tank setup, when used in conjunction with a failsafe, offers other advantages. For instance, my intake air charge (after the I/C) is cooled considerably, like a 18 degree C temperature change. Cooler air = denser air = more power. Saying that, after reading your response it has me contemplating an E85 conversion when E85 is more widely available in California.

Check the battery sense wire coming from the alternator to a battery hot source, typically found off the wire from the starter solenoid back to the harness. I can't say for 280zs, but for 240zs this wire had a fusible link which could pop. Check this line/fusible link. If the alternator does not "sense" voltage from the battery, it will overcharge.

Not to discount running E85, but why not simply run an ethanol or methanol injection system? You do not have to convert your fuel system, you only use it under boost, you get the economy of gasoline, you get more power than E85 when tuned, and for forced induction motors you get the added benefit of a cooler intake charge. Add some water into that methanol mix and you get some benefits of in-cylinder cooling. I am truly curious and not saying that methanol injection is better, but asking why opt for E85 over it. E85 is, simplistically, gasoline with 15% ethanol.

Autometer and Summit. Autometer makes a 4 in 1 gauge.

Afshin, my methanol injector is fully mappable, just like a fuel injector. I can vary flow for a given MAP and RPM, just like my primary fuel injectors. My EMS controls the injector via an auxiliary PWM channel. Saying that, the company (FJO Racing - www.fjoracing.com) has a complete standalone methanol injection setup that uses EMS like software to fully control their injector(s). You can save maps, vary flow based on RPM and MAP, etc. It is a very slick system and one I would have opted for had my EMS not had the ability to control the injector directly. I estimated my flows based on my fuel injector pulse widths and used a replacement factor of 20%. I have a very detailed spreadsheet that I used to do the calculations. The calculations are not complicated, but I am using my actual fuel map to calculate the meth injector duty cycle.

Digger, thank you very much for the follow-up.

Six Shooter, I have a thread, but I need to update it and get in touch with an admin to see if I can clean up the first post. The engine specs are surprising - stock. It's a stock P90a (yes, hydraulic lifters) head, stock block, stock pistons, rods, etc. I have a N42 intake that is NOT port matched nor ported itself save for the throttle body area. I am running a 240sx throttle body as well. The injectors are Supra 7MGTE 440 cc/min injectors that were flow tested at 503 cc/min @43.5 psi (all within 1cc/min of each other). The turbo is a Garrett T03/04E 50 trim (0.63 A/R on the hotside). I am running a singl 700 cc/min FJO Racing methanol injector, FJO Racing pump, and FJO Racing pressure sender. The injector is controlled by my Wolf EMS and the pressure sender is my failsafe trigger. I am replacing 20%+ of my primary fuel under boost with 100% methanol. At this time my timing is 20 to 22 degrees at 22 psi (that is the range that bounds the load cell), which is 5 degrees over my pump only timing. My injection and ignition setup is full sequential. I am pulling 3 degrees of timing in cylinders 5 and 6 since these two are the first to detonate. I have left a safe amount of torque and horsepower on the table. The wavy dyno plots are indicative of misfires which can be felt by a gentle surging. I am also faced with boost bleed-off as can be seen in the plots. I figure I have a safe 400ish ft-lbs and at least 20 to 30 hp I can realize once I get these issues sorted out.

Tim, thanks for the heads up regarding MAT's. I did not log my MAT, but I do have my IAT sensor hooked up to my Innovate LMA-3, so I can log it during my next session. However, saying that, I am injecting methanol which dramatically reduces IAT/MATs (ambient is, say, 33 degrees C, typical IAT without meth is 38 to 39 degrees C, and with meth my IATs will routinely be 18 to 20 degrees C). I had significant downtime between the runs and the intercooler did not get heatsoaked. Your point about the IAT compensation is very well taken. I am going to hit a mustang dyno when I get back from my vacation to turn out the waves as well as increase my driveability. I will be sure to keep an eye out for MATs and actual injector pulse width used.

I am running 100% methanol in my car as well. I am not running any of the pump-controlled kits like Snow Performance, Devils Own, Alky Control, etc., but rather a constant duty cycle pump with a methanol injector. I just dyno'ed at 388 wheel ft-lbs and 326 hp at 22 psi, my horsepower numbers are lower than they should be because I am fighting boost bleed-off after peak torque (it drops to 16 psi). I did a lot of reading and determined that 100% methanol was for me. I am not tuned to the ragged edge like Bernarrd, but I am tuned for methanol. I am adding, at the moment, 5 degrees of timing over my base fuel-only map, putting me around 22 degrees at peak boost. I have also pulled 20% of my primary fuel map to account for the methanol and I am still not done tuning. I still need to pull some more fuel. I am running a fail-safe setup on my car. My EMS is setup to switch maps to a fuel only map if the methanol pressure drops below a threshold. The switching is seamless and I would never know if I was on the failsafe map if it were not for an LED I wired in. You can not run 100% methanol, then switch to 50/50, then 100% water and not retune each time. Methanol and water fight detonation in two completely different manners. Methanol increases the octane of your fuel charge while water lowers the cylinder temperatures. If you are looking for detonation suppression only, I would go with water. I drive my car on the street all the time as well. You are only injecting when the car is on boost, so I do not understand why you are concerned with running 100% methanol all the time on the street. I go through 3 quarts every 2 to 3 gas tanks unless I am doing some heavy duty tuning runs, then 3 quarts last 1 tank. However, once you experience a tuned car running on 100% methanol, you may never go back.

Clifton, my timing at peak torque and horsepower is around 20-21 degrees in run 3 at 22 psi. I just noticed that my base timing is 15 degrees for 23 psi (I set my upper boost level base timing a bit retarded for tuning). I added in 5 degrees across the board when injecting methanol. My base timing for 19.5 psi is 18 degrees to which I added 5 degrees as well through a trim table. I clearly left power on the table. I originally set this table up for California 91 which is more similar to 89 in the rest of the country.

Run three is the best. The problem is that that torque scale on the right changes between run 2 and run 3. On Run 2, the scale goes up to 400; on run 3 the scale goes up to 500. They both fall off the same; as a matter of fact, run 3 is a bit flatter since I am able to hold 1.5 psi more boost at the higher RPMs, thus helping the curve not to fall off as fast.